OEM+ Engine Build

[Dat240zg]

Let me start by a couple of qualifiers….

1. I have searched, and haven’t found any posts like this, and
2. I recognize that this effort will unravel at some point due to the need for some non-OEM parts, but..

I’m interested in what would be the strongest OEM+ engine build. Basically, an engine featuring any Mitsubishi parts combo, but has to be 4G63 based. Machine work is fine, as well as aftermarket belts, timing components, etc if availability is an issue.

What engine component list would you use and what could one expect from it?



Mods - if this is in the wrong place, feel free to nuke it. This is more than just a conversation as I would like to make this my next engine build.

Bryan
Dat240zg

 

[CrackedDSM]

Strongest? OEM 6 bolt stuff. Second strongest with a little more compression? OEM 6 bolt stuff with 2G 8.5:1 pistons.

Pretty much done deal. Evo cranks are good but no stronger or weaker than DSM ones. Their pistons have lower compression than 2G pistons and I don’t think they’re anything special either.

 

[Dat240zg]

Add to that a ported 1g head & big 16g. Cyclone or Evo 3 intake?

Which exhaust manifold?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Cyclone if it’s a street/16G/1g head setup all day, Evo 3 for a 2G head but that’s getting into personal preference.

Exhaust manifold is hands down an Evo 3 ported out. If you can’t find that, a hogged out 2G exhaust manifold is good too. Avoid the fp race mani on anything but medium+ sized turbos. Especially not for 14b/16G setups.

 

[92Turbski]

Strongest? OEM 6 bolt stuff. Second strongest with a little more compression? OEM 6 bolt stuff with 2G 8.5:1 pistons.

Pretty much done deal. Evo cranks are good but no stronger or weaker than DSM ones. Their pistons have lower compression than 2G pistons and I don’t think they’re anything special either.

This is good stuff here, guys! About to tear down my 6 bolt and wondered about doing 2G pistons for a slight bump in compression.
-Which OE branded pistons are recommended/suggested/available?
-Any special process to remove/replace 1 with the other off the rods?
-Hand fit/file rings to any particular gap?
-Composite OE head gasket or MLS with ARP studs?

 

[dwb]

This is good stuff here, guys! About to tear down my 6 bolt and wondered about doing 2G pistons for a slight bump in compression.
-Which OE branded pistons are recommended/suggested/available?
-Any special process to remove/replace 1 with the other off the rods?
-Hand fit/file rings to any particular gap?
-Composite OE head gasket or MLS with ARP studs?

I just did an ~OEM 6-bolt rebuild last summer. I bought these 2g pistons from Ebay (.020 over bore): https://www.ebay.com/itm/151103013907
I pressed off the original 1g pistons and brought my 1g "big rods" and 2g pistons to a machine shop to machine the rods and fit the new pistons. I used the 2g FSM as reference to set the ring gaps, which, BTW, is a much larger gap than what the 1g FSM calls for. I used the OE head gasket and ARP head studs.

Some people said they had to modify the 1g oil squirters to work with 2g pistons, but not in my case. For a street/daily driver car, the increased compression is really helpful. I'm still on stock 1g timing maps, so only boosting about 10psi. ECMLink will be my next purchase so I can rework the timing maps.

So many people on here flamed me for the 6-bolt/2g piston combo. Is was rather annoying and there was really no merit behind it. Honestly it has turned out to be a pretty good setup and I'd do it again if big HP isn't the main goal.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

I don’t understand the whole “oem+” term thrown around these days, not bashing it but does it mean stock with bolt ons, what makes one “oem+”? Sounds like a run of the mill stock rebuild but no one would know any different if you threw some h beam rods and wiseco 9:1 pistons in it. Stock replacement pistons are still a dime a dozen.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So many people on here flamed me for the 6-bolt/2g piston combo. Is was rather annoying and there was really no merit behind it. Honestly it has turned out to be a pretty good setup and I'd do it again if big HP isn't the main goal.

There are a few outliers here (And on every DSM forum) that are just total and complete dicks to everyone because they feel that there is only exactly ONE way to fillet a fish, and that any other way is stupid and deserves to be shouted down and shamed.

Anyone who thinks for themselves, or dares to ask "why? Why not this way?" has traditionally been shouted down and shunned by the DSM community. 2G pistons and 1G rods was a thing because it's an awesome combo, especially using OEM parts. Advice to any future new DSMer, if someone is being an absolutely rude dick to you no matter HOW knowledgeable they seem to be, just put them on your ignore list and move on. There's at least someone out there as knowledgeable or more knowledgeable than they are who isn't gonna be a complete ass.

I don’t understand the whole “oem+” term thrown around these days, not bashing it but does it mean stock with bolt ons, what makes one “oem+”? Sounds like a run of the mill stock rebuild but no one would know any different if you threw some h beam rods and wiseco 9:1 pistons in it. Stock replacement pistons are still a dime a dozen.

I have no clue but it's the most retarded thing I keep hearing over and over. It comes from the Euro world. My favorite example is "oh my DSM is gonna be OEM+ so I don't need good quality tires...but this 1000+hp fuel rail I 100% don't need I'm totally gonna waste money on, because I need that instagram street cred".


It used to be called fast with class, restomod, or just clean work? There's no consistency at all.

 

[dwb]

There are a few outliers here(And on every DSM forum) that are just total and complete dicks to everyone because they feel that there is only exactly ONE way to fillet a fish, and that any other way is stupid and deserves to be shouted down and shamed. Anyone who thinks for themselves, or dares to ask "why? Why not this way?" has traditionally been shouted down and shunned by the DSM community. 2G pistons and 1G rods was a thing because it's an awesome combo, especially using OEM parts. Advice to any future new DSMer, if someone is being an absolutely rude dick to you no matter HOW knowledgeable they seem to be, just put them on your ignore list and move on. There's at least someone out there as knowledgeable or more knowledgeable than they are who isn't gonna be a complete ass.

I couldn't agree more. I feel like you blocked one of the same members I did too, based on your comments in another thread

OEM+ I interpret as factory parts but maybe not designed for the specific platform they are being used on. Like 2g pistons in a 6 bolt block. With aftermarket parts to fill in where OEM lacks, like ARP hardware. IDK, just my .02.

 

[Dat240zg]

Here was my thought process behind OEM+: we know power can be made with aftermarket parts, what power could be made if we stuck to OEM+ parts?

I’ve had a motor with billet/expensive goodies. I’d like to make one with parts that I can say is (mostly) in the mitsu family, whether or not they’re 1g or eclipse or not.

Once everyone has a chance to give their thoughts, I’m going to start collecting parts and (hopefully) start building it this summer.

Bryan
Dat20zg

 

[slugsgomoo]

Rod bolts are a weak link, so I'd plan on doing all ARP fasteners personally.

I'd do a 6 bolt, 1g rods, 2g pistons, 2g head, evo3 manifold, evo rockers, OEM BSE... if I had to stick OEM. That said, I'd probably want to switch out the cams as well and depending on turbo, either 264/264 or a 264/272 (IMO a really fun street setup with an evo3 16g).

For the non-OEM parts, I think you'd be crazy to build it without a Kiggly girdle & HLA regulator, and all APR hardware.

That said, even with ARP rod bolts, I don't think I've ever seen a full weight car last long much over 500 wheel / 120-125mph traps. I know some of the real light cars have gone faster, but I feel like once you're at that power level, the stock rods are living on borrowed time.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

That said, even with ARP rod bolts, I don't think I've ever seen a full weight car last long much over 500 wheel / 120-125mph traps. I know some of the real light cars have gone faster, but I feel like once you're at that power level, the stock rods are living on borrowed time.

Depends how you look at it, I’ve seen them live far longer than what’s even believable, and I’ve seen them not live long with even proper tuning making less, it’s really a crap shoot but the reassurance of the stronger stuff is nice. Hell out here in shootout country we have a few stock bottom end cars that have well surpassed that but I definitely get what you’re saying. Fun fact, the sbe record engine (before getting swapped out with another stock 6 bolt and resetting the record at the last shootout) had been in 5 different cars over 12 years and those poor rods and stock rod bolts were going 9.0 at 150 with about 230k miles on them, like I said just a fun fact, but anything I’d be rebuilding I’m with you, I’d go with the reassurance of ARP rod bolts, ARP main studs I would not do if I didn’t have the main journals align honed.

 

[slugsgomoo]

ARP main studs I would not do if I didn’t have the main journals align honed.

Absolutely- but I'm also not one to spend money on a machinist if I'm not doing the whole thing properly. If we're just doing a slap-together build, might as well run a ball hone and YOLO it

 

[92Turbski]

Absolutely- but I'm also not one to spend money on a machinist if I'm not doing the whole thing properly. If we're just doing a slap-together build, might as well run a ball hone and YOLO it

Lol!