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2G O2 sensor?

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gst96spyderman

15+ Year Contributor
830
0
Oct 22, 2008
H, North_Carolina
Is this an o2 sensor, and where does it need to be hooked up.



Alright guys. I'm turning over a new leaf, and going to be doing ALL the repairs and replacement on my own. Previously, I'd just pay to have it done or did very little on my own. That sh*t is over. I'm sick of seeing these damn wires that are not connected and have no idea why they are there. Too much mystery in this car. So there's gooing to be many more questions like this. Thanks in advance
 

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VERY helpful link. Thank you. The picture dosen't show it, but the sensor plug I'm holding is the one connected to the dp below the exhaust manni. Couldn't find it in the link posted, but its bookmarked for future reference
 
I was hoping you'd look at the connector in that link for the front O2 and correlate that maybe the two went together. :)

Yes, that is your O2.
 
I was hoping you'd look at the connector in that link for the front O2 and correlate that maybe the two went together. :)

Yes, that is your O2.

Ohh. Well, my fault. Guess that leads me to my next question. Since its not plugged in or connected anywhere, could I use this for my WB? Directly, could I use this sensor. I posted something similar before about this, and got two different answers. If not, again, since its not being used, would I be able to tap my o2 sensor for the wb here if it would not work?
 
No you can't use that sensor for a wideband. Your stock o2 is a narrowband 0-1v the wide band sensors are 0-5v. Plus the connectors are different. The connector for the stock one if not removed will be sort of under your water pipe filler neck/ starter/ top of trans area.
 
No you can't use that sensor for a wideband. Your stock o2 is a narrowband 0-1v the wide band sensors are 0-5v. Plus the connectors are different. The connector for the stock one if not removed will be sort of behind your driver side head light area.

Doesn't the o2 sensor plug in on the passenger side ish of the block under your water housing area?
 
Let me ask this then. Why is this not being used? Could it be used for a narrowband af gauge setup?

I have no wb hooked up as of yet. I have a glowshit wb but no probe. Could I take out this sensor and use it to place in my wb sensor?
 
Unless you have ECMlink to run narrowband simulation with a wideband sensor in the front o2 location I have no idea why that is unplugged or how the car is not leaning itself out and running like crap with it unplugged.

You can remove the stock sensor if you use ECMlink and a wideband together but it requires some rewiring to the ECU (not that difficult actually). Since you don't have a wideband at all I would assume your car is running very lean and having trouble idling without that sensor plugged in.

Edit: And no, you cannot use the stock sensor itself for a wideband. They read completely different.
 
She actually runs decent. Not too much of an dle issue, but it was much better when first purchased. I guess I'll have to tap into and weld further down...

I am using my flashable ECU, and wishing I had link, but I'm learning. The radiator is down, so I can't log anything...

When I get the probe for my WB, what do you suggest I do with this extra sensor? Could it be used for anything else?
 
I have no wb hooked up as of yet. I have a glowshit wb but no probe. Could I take out this sensor and use it to place in my wb sensor?
No, no, and no, use a glowshift compadable wb sensor. The stoc is for narrow band only, and essentially useless for tuning.
If you have a stock setup with stock injectors and turbo. Plug the sensor back in where we stated above.
 
No, no, and no, use a glowshift compadable wb sensor. The stoc is for narrow band only, and essentially useless for tuning.

I hear you. But I was referring more towards using the location. I.e. Could I take out the factory o2 sensor, and place my glowshit wb sensor into there, instead of having to weld another hole...
 
I hear you. But I was referring more towards using the location. I.e. Could I take out the factory o2 sensor, and place my glowshit wb sensor into there, instead of having to weld another hole...

Not unless you run narrowband simulation or if you want the car to run terrible. I am still completely confused on how the car is running fine with that sensor unplugged. But without a wideband you really don't know if you are running lean or not I guess.
 
If you run a wb in the stock location and simulate narrow band, first of all you need something to tune with, i havent had experience with evoscan, but the only down side to putting it there is it will die. 25% quicker then if you were to put it 18" down stream. However you will get a quicker and more accurate reading the closer you are to the turbine.
 
Well, if you can, plug it in. If you want to run narrow band sim. Throw away that sensor and buy one that works with your gloshift unit like i said earlier. And find out if your ecu flash can do a simulation of narrowband.

Something doesnt sound right though, are there any other sensors or bungs on your down pipe? No way your car is idling "fine" due to the rear o2...

Done spoon feeding.
 
You guys act like the car HAS to have stock narrowband sensor feedback to run... The purpose of the sensor is to provide oxygen content feedback to the ecu for trimming fuel delivery.....that's it.

He probably has a CEL for circuit continuity on the sensor itself.. I doubt these early OBDII cars have diagnostics that detect a failure to enter closed-loop condition.

Plug the sensor back in and be happy that your car isn't locked in open loop any more.
 
She's been sitting for 2+ years, and my scan tool and tactrix cable are at another house about 70 mountain miles, so I'm just getting the car up to speed. I haven't plugged the sensor back yet, because I couldn't find it quick enough and don't want to spend the daylight searching for info on it. But I'll find out where the hell the ECU connector side harness is located...

I have gutted the car, instead and am looking for rust. So far not too bad. As far as how she runs, she runs like a car that needs to be tuned. I have no way of telling if she is lean/rich other than adjusting fpr to 43 the other day... Idle is sometimes loopy, but levels itself out after driving.
 
See the link in post #2 and then click on the o2 in the listing. It's shown there.

Got it plugged into proper location. Found a couple more wires, but will be using the tech write up posted you made.

Andyes, she runs better now. Well, idles, since interior is out. Well see if there is any difference or see if there are any codes being thrown still this weekend. Thanks for all the help
 
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