The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

NX problem

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

0RWHP

Probationary Member
18
0
Apr 10, 2007
Montgomery City, Missouri
I am using NX express on my stock 420a motor and i am shooting a 50 shot i shot it about 4 times and on the 4th im not shure what went wrong but it fried my #1 sparkplug and turned it into a brittle chard and the ground part on te plug went into the motor and the piston rammed it through my valve i got all of it fixed but the question is;; Why did my car fry like that a 50 should be ok with the stock motor and i never over reved or went under 3g before use what add ons should i use to make this a sucsess i also was using 93 octane gas. thanks Aaron
 
What type of plugs were you running?

You should be running standard NGK spark plugs at minimum one heat range colder than stock.

Also an upgraded fuel pump would have been nice, but there is also a chance that something happend with the fuel delivery in the wet kit and well with lack of fuel means boom.



paul hurry up and answer this...... its been a long time since we talked about nitrous in these motors..
 
For what i was told i was suppost to put in hotter plugs. My mechanic put iridium plugs in that were hotter than the NGK's

I was also told that the fuel sensor in these cars are in the rear so when the car burnt all the fuel the sensor could not tell yet and could not supply the fuel?? could that be correct
 
Do you have any sort of monitoring equipment installed, like EGT or o2 gauges?
 
No which is dumb i know im getting ready to buy a piller and get the guages
 
okay from now on, never, ever, ever, ever buy any kind of plug that is hotter, when your running any kind of forced induction on these cars. My friend Brian Macy over at www.horsepowerconnection.com won't run anything other than standard NGK's in his 8sec Chevy Nova.

Stick with NGK's at least standard (BKR6ES) or one range colder (BKR7ES), if your really desperate for sparkplugs go for the standard autolite plugs, but (imo) that should be temporary until you can purchase the NGK's.

EDIT: If your looking to go turbo, hold off on the gauges for now.
 
Thanks for the tip i was told the way wrong information. I will go buy some tonight when i get off work.
 
Your motor ####ed up because it's 10 years old and there's nitrous shooting through it now. But the way, that wasn't intended to happen from the factory, if that tells you anything.

Build the motor and try it. Bet it holds up.
 
I don't know about that... I'd consider a wet 50 shot "safe" for a stock bottom end. High EGTs, knock or predetonation will destroy any engine...
 
Your motor ####ed up because it's 10 years old and there's nitrous shooting through it now. But the way, that wasn't intended to happen from the factory, if that tells you anything.

Build the motor and try it. Bet it holds up.

UHH? his spark plug took a $h!t on him, which in turn caused other problems. Maybe you didn't read it all? By the way, I'm sure the spark plug was not 10 years old.
 
Spark plug shit on him? Oh, and the piston jammed up into the valves.

10 years old wear and tear gets magnified ten-fold when you introduce niotrous. The conditon of the motor should be checked before adding anything like that. You guys can say what you want, but I've seen then over a dozen times around here and first hand. 9/10 times it was the condition of the motor before nitrous that caused this.
 
i ran a NOS 75 wet shoot on my car for a long time before i went turbo and never ran into any problems....i always used the NGK BKR7ES....

I ran a 14.2 with the 75shoot, CAI, header, catback and a gutted cat ...on street tires

maybe there might have been some defect with the plug it self and with the added strain of the nitrous caused it to break apart
 
I am thinking lean condition combined with overly hot plug. Probably just melted the electrode in a point where the rest broke free.
 
I am thinking lean condition combined with overly hot plug. Probably just melted the electrode in a point where the rest broke free.

That's what I'm thinking... perhaps the fuel solenoid for the wet kit malfunctioned?

To the OP, who installed this system?
 
a local installer that has lisense so it wasnt no dude off the streets but also wasnt quilified to put in the N2O but has done some before and he only charged me 100 to put it in.
 
No offense or anything, but if you didn't feel qualified to install it yourself, you probably aren't qualified to identify what went wrong. You really need an intimate knowledge of your car, and how things were installed to figure out what went wrong in most cases.
 
VelocitàPaola;151169747 said:
No offense or anything, but if you didn't feel qualified to install it yourself, you probably aren't qualified to identify what went wrong. You really need an intimate knowledge of your car, and how things were installed to figure out what went wrong in most cases.

I'm thinking since he stated that his car has already been fixed and this is what happened.
He damaged the motor, so he then takes it to a shop to see what happened. The the shop pulls it apart, finds the problem and relays a somewhat blurry description of what happened to him. He takes the information the shop gave him and posts it here on these forums to try and understand why it happened. I don't think he was diagnosing it himself.
but who knows?
 
a local installer that has lisense so it wasnt no dude off the streets but also wasnt quilified to put in the N2O but has done some before and he only charged me 100 to put it in.

That sentence should look a little more like this I think:

A local installer that has a license, did the installation. Although, he was not qualified to install nitrous, he has done some before. Not to mention, I was only charged 100 bucks. So, it wasn't just some dude off the streets.

Is that what you were trying to type, because your statement is almost unreadable to me.
 
yes this is much closer sorry i have a learning and writing disability. Yes this is correct . The problem solver has been my friends and other V* mechanics i know. and i wasnt wanitng more opinions because i have got so many differnt ways to solve this from i need a new fuel pump and injectors to a new regaltor so i dont know what i need to fix so i can start spraying..
 
0RWHP said:
i have a learning and writing disability.

As long as you try.

Well, you ought to start testing things. First, I would suggest getting a Fuel Pressure tester. (if you don't already own one) It installs on the schrader valve, which should be covered by a black cap, on the passenger side of the fuel rail.

Turn key to on, (with engine off) and check that the pressure very quickly rises to 47-50psi. It should stay steady at that point. Turn the key off. Pressure should not drop, but dropping VERY slowly is acceptable. If all is good so far, start the car. pressure should remain between 47-50psi. Quickly snap the throttle to WOT, and shut again. The needle should not move. (Twitching is ok, as long as it does not drop more than a couple psi, and return immediately) Bring the rpm to 4, or 5,000rpm. Again, it should stay. Shut it off, relieve the pressure in the gauge, and disconnect.

This will tell us the basic condition of your fuel system.

Let us know the results.
 
If you still want to spray with the 50shot....

Buy a Chiltions or Haynes manual, and do some of the baisc maintence on the car....its got step by step instructions for most everything.


Your gonna want to run an upgraded fuel pump with the nitrous to be on the safe side. (leave the injectors alone).

Run the right spark plugs (NGK Bkr7es, one range colder than stock), make sure your plug wires haven't melted from the last incindent.

Make sure your motor itself is leak free (relatively..LOL) do a compression test and ensure yourself a good working 10 year old motor (just for u blitz)

If your not going to be the one to work on the car, make sure you do all you can to understand how everything works on it, by reading about it and if you can I'd suggest gettnig some hands on experience.....this is something that I had to figure out as well.
 
Ok i got to go to walmart to marrow ill run by autozone and check for one or order one. I would love to keep spraying but i dotn want to have the worry of getting charded out the ass for it. when this valve cracked on me i took it to the same guy that put the n2o in and he only charged me 350 for parts and all but others wanted closed to grand to fix it.


I want to get some on hand learning but thing is im scared that i will mess something up and end up costing me more money than im already spending i never messed with these motors.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top