This article is meant to serve as a general guide to get the horn to work with an Nrg short hub or aftermarket steering wheel. Credit goes to this particular article for the idea of using a hose clamp: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/h...ermarket-steering-wheel-using-a-clamp.373149/
Also take note of the picture from this article to see a hacksaw blade used instead of a hose clamp: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/c...ction-with-aftermarket-steering-wheel.222394/
********Note: I will not be going over srs light or how to maintain airbags
Useful Videos:
-For disassembly//assembly of nrg setup wheel
I'm gonna skip all the steering wheel disassembly to the part when removing the clockspring. The spring has two connectors that go under the dash, the one we want to use for our horn is white and has 3 wires: green w/ red stripe, blue, and black. Cut the connector from the clockspring leaving a decent amount of wire from the green/red wire and blue wire. The black wire will not be used so it can be cut short, covered with electrical tape, etc. If you don't want to cut up your clockspring, go to the junkyard and get yourself that one connector.
This picture above shows the cut connector
At this point, we will move on to using the hose clamp as a spring for the horn. I recently replaced my lower radiator hose and decided to use one of those hose clamps. I started by completely unscrewing the clamp and cutting the hose clamp to length using tin snips. You want to cut the solid part that doesn't have slots or find a hose clamp with a long enough section of slotted metal. You can reference the pictures to see the shape, but the general idea is to have it stationary, while also always contacting the bronze piece on the back of the short hub. The hose will be rubbing the back of the short hub so I would recommend using some Permatex Dielectric Grease to lubricate the connection. I smeared it on the hose clamp and on the entire bronze back.
Install the nrg short hub to know how much you need to bend the hose clamp. I wanted to use the factory holes where the clockspring bolted to, so I made 2 bends to make almost like an omega symbol using a vise. I placed the slotted end on the lower-left screw post, marked it with a sharpie, and drilled a hole to use the factory screw. I then drilled a second hole on the other side of the clamp to try to use a white bump as a place to hold the clamp in place. I ended up missing my mark and used a Dremel to bore/extend out the hole enough to make it over the little bump. I also managed to screw in the factory screw on the lower-right post to secure the clamp further from the right side. I put a little epoxy on the bump part for extra support, but honestly feel like the second screw does a sufficient job, especially with the white bump as a retainer point.
This picture above shows "white bump" mentioned prior
Screw and epoxy holding the clamp in place
Back to wiring: The blue wire will be extended with a butt connector or soldered and then grounded using a ring connector. The green/red wire will also be extended to reach our hose clamp. Bend a small ring connector to make an L and place it between the screw and hose clamp on the bottom-left screw post. (Drawing of Circuit Below as well as pictures of it installed). Follow the installation process for the rest of the nrg setup using common sense or the vid from the budget tuner (linked above). Make sure all the parts connect to each other, connecting the male to female connectors of each component to each other. The short hub connects to the quick release part that sticks out, while the horn button connects to the actual quick release that bolts to the steering wheel. If you find out that the horn button has 2 male spade connectors, make a female-female adapter using a small wire and 2 female spade connectors. If you find that you only have one male connector on the horn button, follow this video:
Review of basic circuit
This picture above shows the grounded blue wire (later connected with a butt connector, also ignore the messy wiring above that)
This picture above shows the bent ring connector attached to the green/red wire between the clamp and screw
Connect the battery and test
Hope this helps at least someone!
Also take note of the picture from this article to see a hacksaw blade used instead of a hose clamp: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/c...ction-with-aftermarket-steering-wheel.222394/
********Note: I will not be going over srs light or how to maintain airbags
Useful Videos:
-For disassembly//assembly of nrg setup wheel
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-To understand the general concept of how the horn works skip to 1:15. The dude in the vid uses a paperclip instead of the hose clamp, but the same basic concept.
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Disconnect Battery!!!I'm gonna skip all the steering wheel disassembly to the part when removing the clockspring. The spring has two connectors that go under the dash, the one we want to use for our horn is white and has 3 wires: green w/ red stripe, blue, and black. Cut the connector from the clockspring leaving a decent amount of wire from the green/red wire and blue wire. The black wire will not be used so it can be cut short, covered with electrical tape, etc. If you don't want to cut up your clockspring, go to the junkyard and get yourself that one connector.
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This picture above shows the cut connector
At this point, we will move on to using the hose clamp as a spring for the horn. I recently replaced my lower radiator hose and decided to use one of those hose clamps. I started by completely unscrewing the clamp and cutting the hose clamp to length using tin snips. You want to cut the solid part that doesn't have slots or find a hose clamp with a long enough section of slotted metal. You can reference the pictures to see the shape, but the general idea is to have it stationary, while also always contacting the bronze piece on the back of the short hub. The hose will be rubbing the back of the short hub so I would recommend using some Permatex Dielectric Grease to lubricate the connection. I smeared it on the hose clamp and on the entire bronze back.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Install the nrg short hub to know how much you need to bend the hose clamp. I wanted to use the factory holes where the clockspring bolted to, so I made 2 bends to make almost like an omega symbol using a vise. I placed the slotted end on the lower-left screw post, marked it with a sharpie, and drilled a hole to use the factory screw. I then drilled a second hole on the other side of the clamp to try to use a white bump as a place to hold the clamp in place. I ended up missing my mark and used a Dremel to bore/extend out the hole enough to make it over the little bump. I also managed to screw in the factory screw on the lower-right post to secure the clamp further from the right side. I put a little epoxy on the bump part for extra support, but honestly feel like the second screw does a sufficient job, especially with the white bump as a retainer point.
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This picture above shows "white bump" mentioned prior
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Screw and epoxy holding the clamp in place
Back to wiring: The blue wire will be extended with a butt connector or soldered and then grounded using a ring connector. The green/red wire will also be extended to reach our hose clamp. Bend a small ring connector to make an L and place it between the screw and hose clamp on the bottom-left screw post. (Drawing of Circuit Below as well as pictures of it installed). Follow the installation process for the rest of the nrg setup using common sense or the vid from the budget tuner (linked above). Make sure all the parts connect to each other, connecting the male to female connectors of each component to each other. The short hub connects to the quick release part that sticks out, while the horn button connects to the actual quick release that bolts to the steering wheel. If you find out that the horn button has 2 male spade connectors, make a female-female adapter using a small wire and 2 female spade connectors. If you find that you only have one male connector on the horn button, follow this video:
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Review of basic circuit
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This picture above shows the grounded blue wire (later connected with a butt connector, also ignore the messy wiring above that)
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This picture above shows the bent ring connector attached to the green/red wire between the clamp and screw
Connect the battery and test
Hope this helps at least someone!
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