1G notch at end of clutch pedal (towards floor)

[93AWDDSM]

I have a recently new MC/SC (non oem at the moment). I bought a LUK clutch kit. My tob was toast, had no option but to use the one sent with the LUK clutch kit. Now, the system has been bleed and no air comes out anymore. The pedal is smooth up until about 1" from the floor, then there's a bump or notch until it reaches the ground.

I'm thinking the TOB is no good causing issues. It shifts fine and drives alright, even with that bump/notch and it wont go into gear unless the pedal is completely depressed.

Not worried about the clutch, it's just some stock old one. I'm just trying to see if it would be acceptable to drive for now. It's my DD.

Will be purchasing oem tob, oem clutch fork, oem pivot ball - 1 shim

any ideas? thanks

 

[93AWDDSM]

Lol, any input would be helpful at this point. I will try and make a video of two locations when this is happening.

View clutch pedal video

Fork position:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Looking like maybe a shim is needed

 

[93AWDDSM]

Still has this issue. I've re-bleed it. No leaks. Any input on why this is still happening? It's a very noticeable notch when pushing the clutch pedal in. It's smooth until about 1.5" from the ground and that's when you feel the notch until pedal is at the floor.

Improper step height on flywheel maybe?

 

[GST with PSI]

Where's the click coming from? The pedal assembly, or the clutch assembly?

 

[93AWDDSM]

no, the pedal assembly has no play (I've dealt with worn pedal assembly before). Feels like the clutch assembly. It's very strange because I can push the pedal in until I reach that "bump/notch" and shift almost as well as if I were to push the clutch pedal all the way down. Any ideas?

EDIT: not sure if that video a few posts up helps. I'll take another one trying to capture the notch issue a little more in depth. (I've also done 1st gear, clutch in and rev to 7200 with no moving so I know it'ss not dragging syncros)

 

[GST with PSI]

If I had to guess, it's probably an issue with the pressure plate. Perhaps one of the fingers. Either way, you're going to have to pull the trans to see what the issue is. I'd start trying to figure out when you're going to work that into your schedule.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Hmm. weird thing is, it has been driving alright since I put it in which according to this post was around December 2016. I'm going to save up for OEM master/slave as well as another stock clutch with a OEM TOB. I don't like dropping a transmission in this daily driver when you know it's a DSM and the plan doesn't always go accordingly.
@GST with PSI I appreciate your help!

edit: i have another question. Can I order master/slave off of rock auto and expect it to almost mimic the OEM type? There are multiple choices on many items. Any brand preference for hydraulic stuff as in slave/master?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

OEM.....Extreme, STM, any number of vendors.
I wonder if you are perhaps OVER extending the clutch, trying to bend the clutch fingers in more than even??

 

[93AWDDSM]

OEM.....Extreme, STM, any number of vendors.
I wonder if you are perhaps OVER extending the clutch, trying to bend the clutch fingers in more than even??

don't say that... but yeah... I think this is happening.

One thing I can say is. As stated in first post, I put a new clutch (LUK) used the clutch disc, tob and PP provided. The slave and master weren't and aren't leaking. Also, before the clutch replacement it never had this notch to it.

EDIT: can you guys take a look at the bellhousing pic? To me, it seems like a shim would be needed for the clutch fork to lean more towards driver side.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Will the trans go into gear AT the notch/click point? Or do you HAVE to go past it to get into gear? If it goes in at that point I'd say you are pressing the clutch in to far, over extending it but I did read in your post somewhere that it still needs to go all the way to the floor. One way to tell is have a helper push the clutch in WHILE you observe and listen at the clutch fork hole and try to look in with a light of some kind.

 

[93AWDDSM]

example, if the pedal is resting and I push it down it will go into gear pretty smoothly before the notch and then when I press the notch it's basically the same result smooth into gear. I do notice that when the clutch is being let out that it doesn't start to move until it's past the notch/bump part.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Man I may be wrong as hell but it sure sounds like you are depressing the PP fingers TOO FAR. Try working with the clutch pedal rod under the dash and have that "click" point right at the floor or gone after adjusting. Just trying to be helpful, not trying to make you work more.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Oh don't worry, you're helping with ideas. And work too much? Pssssh it's a dsm.

I'll try and adjust it this evening. To me it sounds like I'm depressing too much as well!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I'm sure you don't have a bore scope, but if you did or could borrow one they are handy. I picked one up on sale and have used it for all kinds of "looking" where I can't easily or possibly see. Mine has a lit end and it would see up in the clutch fork hole. Just throwing you a few ideas.

 

[pauleyman]

Non oem tob could be catching on the sleeve. Oem bearings are plastic sleeved. Non oem are pure metal typically

 

[Tyeler18]

Non oem tob could be catching on the sleeve. Oem bearings are plastic sleeved. Non oem are pure metal typically

This*

It sounds like it's dragging on the input shaft sleeve. I do want to mention looking at your clutch fork position, you're past what I consider acceptable for position. New pivot ball/fork or the bandaid shim fix

 

[Mello]

I don't consider shimming the pivot ball as a bandaide. It's more like buleprinting the mechanical geometry of the clutch fulcrum & lever. It's no more of a bandaide than blueprinting a motor. And yes, you should shim yours. It won't need a very thick shim either. I'd start with about a .02"/.03" thick shim.

 

[9 T GSX]

Also might be a good idea to check the spring on the pedal assembly,just to make sure the bolt that holds the bracket which holds the spring in place hasn't come loose. As you can really hear the spring pop when you push the pedal in and let it up. Another idea is pull the boot off the slave and make sure the bore is still nice and smooth. ex: no deep gouge marks,rust ring from moisture.

 

[93AWDDSM]

So I went out and adjusted the master cylinder rod clock wise. It seemed to get rid of some of the notch but I haven't tried putting it in gear with the car running. I will test that tomorrow.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Adjusted it more, there's about 1/4" notch still. Also, I can push the clutch in just before the notch and it's notchy getting into gears. If I compress the clutch completely down, past the notch, the gears are fine 1-5/R.

I wonder if adjusting more for less throw will fix this or if my clutch fork and pivot ball are just too worn out to be providing me with ample throw, as my fork is leaning a very small amount to passenger per the picture I posted in this thread. Thanks

 

[Mello]

Pull the rubber boot back from the fork & bell housing, have someone full step on the clutch pedal while you look & see if the back of the clutch fork bottoms out against the window in the bell housing. If it hit & stops full motion you need to drop the tranny to fix either by shimming or new parts (pivot ball and fork).

 

[93AWDDSM]

Pull the rubber boot back from the fork & bell housing, have someone full step on the clutch pedal while you look & see if the back of the clutch fork bottoms out against the window in the bell housing. If it hit & stops full motion you need to drop the tranny to fix either by shimming or new parts (pivot ball and fork).

Good thought. I've done that previously in December 2016 when this issue started.
1) The fork doesn't hit the opening.
2) Slave/Master aren't leaking
3) Clutch is a STOCK LUK type

Honestly, the only thing it is starting to seem like could be, worn out fork/pivot ball and non OEM TOB causing issues. The thing that really bugs/confuses me is that before the clutch replacement the clutch pedal was smooth all the way with no notch/bump but then the TOB was destroyed and a stock replacement was input, step height was OK, and once installed it had this weird notch....tiring. Also not my first time doing a clutch .

 

[Mello]

Are you using an extended slave cylinder rod?

 

[93AWDDSM]

Are you using an extended slave cylinder rod?

No, that's not good to use. I haven't adjusted the MC any further either. Right now its still got about a 1/4" notch before the pedal bottoms out. Once the rod is adjusted a little more, I'll double check the MC/SC aren't leaking and if all else fails, I'll pull and replace TOB, clutch fork and pivot ball (potentially shim).

Edit: I adjusted the pedal so there's almost no notch (keyword almost). Seems like it's right on the line of OK disengagement/notchy into gears sometimes. I'll be doing a 1st gear clutch roll test later today to see about drag.