jakk220
10+ Year Contributor
- 1,319
- 312
- Nov 13, 2010
-
Akron,
Ohio
Trying to figure this issue out asap before the shootout. Ill make this as short as possible.
A few weeks ago my front diff chipped a tooth. I took it and got it rebuilt and then installed a new flywheel faceplate, clutch disk, TOB, and reused my low mile pressure plate that tested good with feeler gauges (Southbend B series with ssx pressure plate).
The car shifted beautifully and the engagement point was perfectly in the middle of the pedal on the first few drives / 200 miles. Awesome. Time for some shootout test hits.
I launched the car and everything went well and felt good. The car pulled hard off the line and shifted fine. As soon as I stopped at a light, I noticed the pedal engagement was at the floor. Then, when I went to drive off, I noticed the engagement point was super long. Like the car would start moving with the pedal right off the floor, but fully grab at the middle of the pedal where it should. When it does this the clutch might even be slightly dragging honestly. But still goes into gear and shifts.
After a while of driving, the engagement travel range seems to shrink back up so its not so long. But the engagement is still lower than it was the first 200 miles. And after that first launch, the pedal has never been back to its old engagement point. Its more towards the bottom than it used to be. After everytime I launch it, and stop the car, it moves down to the floor again.
So I bled the clutch and the fluid looked black. So I changed it, but not matter how much I bleed, its still coming out black. Weird and not sure why.
Things I have checked / done:
1. Bell housing bolts are all there and tight (including the rear one)
2. Step height is correct on the flywheel
3. Pressure plate bolts torqued to 15 ft/lbs. Alignment dowels are there.
4. Flywheel seated completely and torqued to 100ft/lbs with red loc-tite
5. Bled the clutch and changed the fluid. No apparent leaks nor was the fluid low. Dot 3/4.
6. Adjusted the clutch with the proper method
7. Clutch fork sits in the proper spot. Actually a tad closer to the driver side because I add a shim for assurance.
8. New OEM throw out bearing
9 *edit* Braided stainless clutch line to slave
It seems hydraulic but I wanted to see if anyone else has ever had this issue. Its a weird one. I am going to try to swap out the master and the slave with new and see what happens. But they did not appear to be leaking. Any ideas here?
A few weeks ago my front diff chipped a tooth. I took it and got it rebuilt and then installed a new flywheel faceplate, clutch disk, TOB, and reused my low mile pressure plate that tested good with feeler gauges (Southbend B series with ssx pressure plate).
The car shifted beautifully and the engagement point was perfectly in the middle of the pedal on the first few drives / 200 miles. Awesome. Time for some shootout test hits.
I launched the car and everything went well and felt good. The car pulled hard off the line and shifted fine. As soon as I stopped at a light, I noticed the pedal engagement was at the floor. Then, when I went to drive off, I noticed the engagement point was super long. Like the car would start moving with the pedal right off the floor, but fully grab at the middle of the pedal where it should. When it does this the clutch might even be slightly dragging honestly. But still goes into gear and shifts.
After a while of driving, the engagement travel range seems to shrink back up so its not so long. But the engagement is still lower than it was the first 200 miles. And after that first launch, the pedal has never been back to its old engagement point. Its more towards the bottom than it used to be. After everytime I launch it, and stop the car, it moves down to the floor again.
So I bled the clutch and the fluid looked black. So I changed it, but not matter how much I bleed, its still coming out black. Weird and not sure why.
Things I have checked / done:
1. Bell housing bolts are all there and tight (including the rear one)
2. Step height is correct on the flywheel
3. Pressure plate bolts torqued to 15 ft/lbs. Alignment dowels are there.
4. Flywheel seated completely and torqued to 100ft/lbs with red loc-tite
5. Bled the clutch and changed the fluid. No apparent leaks nor was the fluid low. Dot 3/4.
6. Adjusted the clutch with the proper method
7. Clutch fork sits in the proper spot. Actually a tad closer to the driver side because I add a shim for assurance.
8. New OEM throw out bearing
9 *edit* Braided stainless clutch line to slave
It seems hydraulic but I wanted to see if anyone else has ever had this issue. Its a weird one. I am going to try to swap out the master and the slave with new and see what happens. But they did not appear to be leaking. Any ideas here?
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