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Resolved Noob here, researching Turbo Upgrade to 300hpish?

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Anthony_2gnt

Proven Member
98
2
Nov 28, 2012
Nampa, Idaho
Hey everyone, been around for awhile, searching the forums, and have never really posted anything. I currently have a mostly stock '99 rs that I am loathing that I bought a couple years back (The reason I have joined this forum :thumb:). This summer I will be leaving for 3 months to work, and am going to come back with a fair chunk of change. Will be selling my rs, to buy a stock gs-t or GSX if I could find one within 300 miles. My ultimate goal is to get a 2g up to around 310ish Hp as a daily driver. Willing to spend some cash on quality parts, but I'm sure the parts I have compiled are way more expensive/over the top than necessary. Looking for some info on what else I will need other than these:
AFPR: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$69

FMIC KIT: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$708

Injen Air Intake Sytem: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=227&cat=83&page=1
$225

Apexi 3'' Downpipe to delete Cat: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=96&cat=92&page=1
$335

Apexi 3'' exhaust, with adapter so I can bolt to cat for emissions :banghead:
https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=92&cat=91&page=1
$683

Not sure about the Injectors, I was looking at 950cc so that I could always upgrade :p
https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=52&cat=59&page=1
$325

Walboro 255 pump with kit: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=35&cat=58&page=1
$102

FIC Fuel rail: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=1287&cat=60&page=1
$134

ECM Link: ECMTuning, Inc.
$545

FP Exhaust Manifold: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$275

Gauge Pillar with 3 gauges A/F,Boost,Oil Pressure: 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Custom Gauge Package
$347

Balance Shafte Eliminator: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=365&cat=0&page=1
$67

Small 16g Turbo: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=75&cat=166&page=1
$1100 new, want to get one to rebuild.

2g Turbo Install Kit: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=600
$173

Porting Turbos Inlet: Mitsubishi Turbo Porting#-#Turbo Services#-#Turbo#-#DSM Performance Parts | DSMparts.com
$88

Greddy BOV: GReddy
$300

Manual Boost Controller: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=4&cat=0&page=1
$104

o2 Housing Sensor Megan Racing: Megan Racing SS Turbo Outlet(O2) Housing DSM - Modern Automotive Performance
$110

Grand Total: $5.7k haha
Again, looking for advice on what parts to change, what other parts to add, experience with certain brands parts, what is bad/good. And what Sort of parts I would need to upgrade both on the Bottom and Top end of a stock gs-t for 300-310 hp.
 
Well before dropping 5k+ on the fun parts of having your dsm, you do plan on doing all the proper maintenance first, right? And do you plan on going with all new parts?
 
Yeah, my father is a mechanic, and I've been really getting into working on cars with him since I've been about 16, (20 now). All our cars are fairly well taken care of. And whenever I get a new car I do general maintenance and bring my dad out to help me look it over. So yes, I plan on doing all maintenance on the car before anything else haha.

Oh, and all the parts do not have to be new, just in good shape. I might shop around a bit for used/good shape goodies here and there, but my time frame between coming back from work and starting school is fairly short. May end up buying my fair share of new parts.
 
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Your setup looks solid, although I'm not sure you need the FP exhaust manifold, the stock one should support 300HP, and same deal with the stock fuel rail. Also, if you were just trying to get that CEL to go out for your rear O2, you could try this! I'm not suggesting you cheat emissions with it, just making you aware of it ;) http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...98363-build-your-own-o2-sensor-simulator.html
Also, if you get a 98 or 99, you don't need ECMlink, you can tune with ECUFlash and Evoscan on the stock ECU, just need a $200 tactrix openport 2.0 cable. Much cheaper, plus you can just disable the check engine light for the rear O2 and all sorts of other things.
EDIT: Some links if you'd like to look into tuning a 98/99 (H8) ECU
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=36&Itemid=57
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?pa...category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
http://www.evoscan.com/free-ecu-rom-downloads
 
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Your setup looks solid, although I'm not sure you need the FP exhaust manifold, the stock one should support 300HP, and same deal with the stock fuel rail. Also, if you were just trying to get that CEL to go out for your rear O2, you could try this! I'm not suggesting you cheat emissions with it, just making you aware of it ;) http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...98363-build-your-own-o2-sensor-simulator.html
Also, if you get a 98 or 99, you don't need ECMlink, you can tune with ECUFlash and Evoscan on the stock ECU, just need a $200 tactrix openport 2.0 cable. Much cheaper, plus you can just disable the check engine light for the rear O2 and all sorts of other things.

I had to look up what you meant by CEL LOL but I understand now. Wasn't really worried about the o2 sensor for the CEL. But that simulator will save me a lot of trouble thanks :). Good to know that I don't need to get a different exhaust mani or fuel rail. That is also really good to know about the 98-99 for the cheaper tuning options. I can't wait till I can actually get a GS-T and start working on it. Just another 3 months haha -_-.

Also, will I need to upgrade anything top end for 300 horse? I don't think I will have to bottom end, read another thread where Jax (and her sexy pink plaid interior) was running about 492whp with stock bottom and just 272 Kelford Cams + other goodies
 
16g is the way to go! you can find one between 200-400 here on the forums, or always contact justinmx hes famous on here for rebuilding turbos sometimes has some in stock. someone was selling one for 350 the other day on here im sure it will be gone by the time you get back but just to give you an idea of the pricing.
 
16g is the way to go! you can find one between 200-400 here on the forums, or always contact justinmx hes famous on here for rebuilding turbos sometimes has some in stock. someone was selling one for 350 the other day on here im sure it will be gone by the time you get back but just to give you an idea of the pricing.

SAWEET, yeah I knew that 1.1k was way to much. But didn't know how often they come around used. I will have to keep stalking the classifieds for some goodies :)
 
not that often really =( so i would say let that be the first thing you buy, cause they get snagged pretty quick

The tuning software and the turbo are my 2 priority things to get first. the Tuning software even more than the turbo. Because if I get a stock gs-t it will have all the other things that I want to buy other than the Bigger turbo, and tuning capabilities.
 
If you want a stock look go big t28. You'll be in the 300 hp range. It sucks on fwd though. Bad traction LOL
 
I had to look up what you meant by CEL LOL but I understand now. Wasn't really worried about the o2 sensor for the CEL. But that simulator will save me a lot of trouble thanks :). Good to know that I don't need to get a different exhaust mani or fuel rail. That is also really good to know about the 98-99 for the cheaper tuning options. I can't wait till I can actually get a GS-T and start working on it. Just another 3 months haha -_-.

Also, will I need to upgrade anything top end for 300 horse? I don't think I will have to bottom end, read another thread where Jax (and her sexy pink plaid interior) was running about 492whp with stock bottom and just 272 Kelford Cams + other goodies

Glad to help! And as far as your top end goes I think you'll be fine, but I do think you might need new head studs. If I remember correctly from a few threads the generally accepted maximum boost from a 16G on stock 2G studs is around 18-20 PSI. Some other cars I've seen have been getting 300HP on around 20 PSI, but that'd be too close for comfort to me. If it were me I'd like the peace of mind of upgraded head studs.
 
welllll if u wanna see look in my thread i will say im kinda doing a bare bones build to 300 im poor ROFLhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/474779-300-hp-dd-98-tsi-fwd.html

Oh haha, this is one of the threads I was looking at where I actually got most of my ideas for what I want to buy.

Glad to help! And as far as your top end goes I think you'll be fine, but I do think you might need new head studs. If I remember correctly from a few threads the generally accepted maximum boost from a 16G on stock 2G studs is around 18-20 PSI. Some other cars I've seen have been getting 300HP on around 20 PSI, but that'd be too close for comfort to me. If it were me I'd like the peace of mind of upgraded head studs.

I definitely don't want to skimp out on anything here. I want all my parts to be at least slightly above what they need to be for safety personal comfort reason. So I will add head studs to my list of parts. I'm one of those people who would like the peace of mind as well, I hate being worried about stuff :hellyeah:

Is this a decent price for a set of 11mm head studs?
http://www.built4g63.com/ARP-EVO-2G-DSM-11-mm-head-stud-kit.html
$115
 
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Hey everyone, been around for awhile, searching the forums, and have never really posted anything. I currently have a mostly stock '99 rs that I am loathing that I bought a couple years back (The reason I have joined this forum :thumb:). This summer I will be leaving for 3 months to work, and am going to come back with a fair chunk of change. Will be selling my rs, to buy a stock gs-t or GSX if I could find one within 300 miles. My ultimate goal is to get a 2g up to around 310ish Hp as a daily driver. Willing to spend some cash on quality parts, but I'm sure the parts I have compiled are way more expensive/over the top than necessary. Looking for some info on what else I will need other than these:
AFPR: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$69

FMIC KIT: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$708

Injen Air Intake Sytem: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=227&cat=83&page=1
$225

Apexi 3'' Downpipe to delete Cat: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=96&cat=92&page=1
$335

Apexi 3'' exhaust, with adapter so I can bolt to cat for emissions :banghead:
https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=92&cat=91&page=1
$683

Not sure about the Injectors, I was looking at 950cc so that I could always upgrade :p
https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=52&cat=59&page=1
$325

Walboro 255 pump with kit: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=35&cat=58&page=1
$102

FIC Fuel rail: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=1287&cat=60&page=1
$134

ECM Link: ECMTuning, Inc.
$545

FP Exhaust Manifold: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
$275

Gauge Pillar with 3 gauges A/F,Boost,Oil Pressure: 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Custom Gauge Package
$347

Balance Shafte Eliminator: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=365&cat=0&page=1
$67

Small 16g Turbo: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=75&cat=166&page=1
$1100 new, want to get one to rebuild.

2g Turbo Install Kit: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=600
$173

Porting Turbos Inlet: Mitsubishi Turbo Porting#-#Turbo Services#-#Turbo#-#DSM Performance Parts | DSMparts.com
$88

Greddy BOV: GReddy
$300

Manual Boost Controller: https://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=4&cat=0&page=1
$104

o2 Housing Sensor Megan Racing: Megan Racing SS Turbo Outlet(O2) Housing DSM - Modern Automotive Performance
$110

Grand Total: $5.7k haha
Again, looking for advice on what parts to change, what other parts to add, experience with certain brands parts, what is bad/good. And what Sort of parts I would need to upgrade both on the Bottom and Top end of a stock gs-t for 300-310 hp.

Well before dropping 5k+ on the fun parts of having your dsm, you do plan on doing all the proper maintenance first, right? And do you plan on going with all new parts?

While I agree with him, I cannot help but cringe when I saw $5,700 to reach 300hp. Unless you want to keep some of those mods for future? But you do NOT, I repeat DO NOT need a lot of those things to reach your ultimate goal of 310hp.

Remember, stock engines can handle a lot of abuse. Noting special is needed to hit 300awhp. You can do that with a few simple mods. While they will help reach your goal they are band aids.

Here is my 2psi.

- SAFC or ECMLink V3 with SD.
- 16G(good choice in turbo. Many, many people have been successful with them)
- An adequate fuel system. ( Complete DSM Fuel Rail Kit With -6 AN Fittings)
- A front mount. NOT HUGE. 2.5" nlet and outlet.
- 3" exhaust of your choosing.
- Your stock clutch if its in good shape should hold 300hp.
- The stock 4G63T motors have been proven to handle over 3 times what their factory output was. As long as you have good ring seal and no head gasket problems you're set.

Keep in mind that those parts can be had here on the Classifieds OR on your local craigslist depending on where you live.

I'm trying to help you get to your goal while saving you big cash that can be spent elsewhere.

If anyone else can think of anything to add to what I said or perhaps I missed something please let me know.
 
Oh haha, this is one of the threads I was looking at where I actually got most of my ideas for what I want to buy.



I definitely don't want to skimp out on anything here. I want all my parts to be at least slightly above what they need to be for safety personal comfort reason. So I will add head studs to my list of parts. I'm one of those people who would like the peace of mind as well, I hate being worried about stuff :hellyeah:

Is this a decent price for a set of 11mm head studs?
Built4G63 :: 1G DSM 92-94 :: Engine :: Bolt kits :: ARP EVO/ 2G DSM 11 mm head stud kit
$115


If you REALLY want to build a motor make plans for 500+hp. There is simply almost no need to build a 4G63 for 350hp. Oh, and a 6 bolt would be good.
 
I had to look up what you meant by CEL LOL but I understand now. Wasn't really worried about the o2 sensor for the CEL. But that simulator will save me a lot of trouble thanks :). Good to know that I don't need to get a different exhaust mani or fuel rail. That is also really good to know about the 98-99 for the cheaper tuning options. I can't wait till I can actually get a GS-T and start working on it. Just another 3 months haha -_-.

Also, will I need to upgrade anything top end for 300 horse? I don't think I will have to bottom end, read another thread where Jax (and her sexy pink plaid interior) was running about 492whp with stock bottom and just 272 Kelford Cams + other goodies


You dont need to build your head, for what it's worth i only have BC272's in my head and thats it. But it's getting built shortly

Oh I'm also on a stock fuel rail and intake maniflld and stock fuel lines too for what it's worth. Fuel lines are in process of 800hp upgrade
 
While I agree with him, I cannot help but cringe when I saw $5,700 to reach 300hp. Unless you want to keep some of those mods for future? But you do NOT, I repeat DO NOT need a lot of those things to reach your ultimate goal of 310hp.

I knew that the price was a bit high, part of why I posted it here, to hear some criticism on what I was trying to do. A lot of these parts I want mostly because I feel that I will become a power junky, and want to up the power more than a few times.

Remember, stock engines can handle a lot of abuse. Noting special is needed to hit 300awhp. You can do that with a few simple mods. While they will help reach your goal they are band aids.

Having never owned a 4g63 engine, and even from the research that I have done, I didn't know what I would need internally for my engine, and if 300hp would be to much for stock. So thank you for clarifiying that :)

Here is my 2psi.

- SAFC or ECMLink V3 with SD.
- 16G(good choice in turbo. Many, many people have been successful with them)
- An adequate fuel system. ( Complete DSM Fuel Rail Kit With -6 AN Fittings)
- A front mount. NOT HUGE. 2.5" nlet and outlet.
- 3" exhaust of your choosing.
- Your stock clutch if its in good shape should hold 300hp.
- The stock 4G63T motors have been proven to handle over 3 times what their factory output was. As long as you have good ring seal and no head gasket problems you're set.

Keep in mind that those parts can be had here on the Classifieds OR on your local craigslist depending on where you live.

I'm trying to help you get to your goal while saving you big cash that can be spent elsewhere.

If anyone else can think of anything to add to what I said or perhaps I missed something please let me know.

Thanks for the Advice :) And yeah, I never really planned on spending that much, it was just what I found on the internet. And a lot of the parts I have compiled are from other threads, and people have mentioned needing them for when you upgrade your turbo
 
Can't believe no one has gave you this link. Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners - Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, 4G63t, and 420A Information I'm with everyone else on fuel rail and head work not needed. I would also look else where on gauges. You are going to want something better quality. With bsek I'm guessing you know thats with a timing job and the motor pulled? Also make sure you use the oem stubby and all oem timing components. Just remember you are going to want more after you make 300. Being a fwd I would recommend some mount inserts or better mounts. Helps with wheel hop a lot.
 
You know your 69 dollar afpr is an install kit and not even a fuel pressure reg right? Havent looked at your other links but I'd double chek them.

Thanks for that, I have no Idea how I overlooked that. Was probably looking at the afpr and then clicked on a kit for hooking it up.
Edit: Nvrm, I clicked on this link from another thread, thinking it was and afpr kit, with the afpr, my bad. :shhh:

If you REALLY want to build a motor make plans for 500+hp. There is simply almost no need to build a 4G63 for 350hp. Oh, and a 6 bolt would be good.

I'm not looking for much more than 310 hp in a daily driver. If I was ever to get another car, then there are those possibilities. And as of right now, I don't understand the difference between the 6 bolt, and 7 bolt engines, havent really researched it much.

Can't believe no one has gave you this link. Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners - Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, 4G63t, and 420A Information I'm with everyone else on fuel rail and head work not needed. I would also look else where on gauges. You are going to want something better quality. With bsek I'm guessing you know thats with a timing job and the motor pulled? Also make sure you use the oem stubby and all oem timing components. Just remember you are going to want more after you make 300. Being a fwd I would recommend some mount inserts or better mounts. Helps with wheel hop a lot.

To be honest, I don't know how I missed the tech guide either, thanks a ton! And yeah, with the BSEK I had already planned on changing out all of the belts, and checking the timing, along with a new water pump. \
I don't know what mount inserts are? But better mounts sounds like a good idea in general. But I don't see how it will help with wheel hop? generally that's caused from to much movement in your suspension I though.

And if don't need to get a new exhaust mani, would I need to even get a new o2 housing? or use that stock as well?
 
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