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2G NO START, NO WINDOWS NO DOOR LOCKS

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Sniffbooger

Proven Member
315
139
Apr 12, 2020
San Diego, California
I'm not good with electrical stuff. I'm having a couple issues trying to bring my GSX back to life.

All the dash lights come on, but it won't crank over. I could knock on the starter and see if its frozen, been sitting a few years, but at least the power windows and door locks should work?

Is this a relay issue?
Is it a ground issue?

Where is the main ground on the engine/transmission. I can't see it anywhere.

thanks for any ideas!
 
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All the dash lights come on, but it won't crank over. I could knock on the starter and see if its frozen, been sitting a few years, but at least the power windows and door locks should work?

Is this a relay issue?
Is it a ground issue?

Where is the main ground on the engine/transmission. I can't see it anywhere.

There are several grounds.

Disconnect the negative ground clamp from the battery and attach an ohmmeter test lead. Then touch the other lead to various parts of the engine and chassis. You should read very low ohms, close to zero.
 
Follow the thick wire attached to the negative at the battery. Think it attaches to the firewall as well for 2g.
On the harness that runs above the trans, you’ll see an eyelet. That attached to the starter bolt closest to the front of car.
Another ground is back of intake manifold to firewall.
Here is how to bench test a starter. Do you have a multimeter and know how to test voltage?

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For windows, have you checked the fuse?
 
Ok, thanks for the replies!

I know the ground from back on intake manifold to firewall is in place, and secure, not rusted.
I have checked all the fuses, and they are fine.
I will have to pull the starter in order to test it this weekend perhaps. I do have an electrical meter, can test voltage.
I will check the black cable from battery and see where it goes. Should it be connected to the starter AND the firewall?
I will check the resistance to various parts of the engine with the battery disconnected.

How to test the window relays?
 
The starter is grounded by the body bolting up to trans and starter plate.

Only wires to the starter is a thick wire straight to battery positive, and another smaller gauge wire which is the starter signal (+12v when you turn key to crank position). Make sure to disconnect the battery when you remove the starter.

Take your meter, turn to DC volts, put one lead on ground and the other to fuse. Both side of fuse should see 12v with key on. Do this test first to make sure fuse has power to both sides.
 
You can test every ground using a multimeter without turning a single bolt; other than the ground clamp. I would test these first to save time. It's probably going to be a ground issue, because it's more than one thing not working. The ground test will localize where you are losing the ground; then you can narrow the problem down from there.
 
You can test every ground using a multimeter without turning a single bolt; other than the ground clamp. I would test these first to save time. It's probably going to be a ground issue, because it's more than one thing not working. The ground test will localize where you are losing the ground; then you can narrow the problem down from there.
So I need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, and use that for my black multimeter lead touching to the negative battery terminal, and touch my red mulitmeter lead to various parts of the engine, and the resistance (ohms) should read 0?

And if it reads higher, then it is a ground issue?

Is this correct?
 
So I need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, and use that for my black multimeter lead touching to the negative battery terminal, and touch my red mulitmeter lead to various parts of the engine, and the resistance (ohms) should read 0?

And if it reads higher, then it is a ground issue?

Is this correct?
Doesn't really matter what direction the leads go; although I usually use the black terminal. It will flow a very tiny current in the micro amps region that will not harm anything. Just make sure the negative battery is disconnected and only touch the clamp, not the negative battery post. And yes, connect the other terminal to various places on the chassis and engine.

Where is this located? IN the fuse panel under the hood by the air filter???
Yes, the fusable link is under the hood, but since other things turn on, it's not going to be that.
 
He said other things arent working. Its the fuse marked alternator, or the 60amp fusable link. Yes its the fuse block under the hood behind the air intake

They should be clear one the top. You can look inside them to see if the little fuse is broken

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He said other things arent working. Its the fuse marked alternator, or the 60amp fusable link. Yes its the fuse block under the hood behind the air intake

They should be clear one the top. You can look inside them to see if the little fuse is broken

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I have tested all the fuses in this block with my continuity meter and they are all ok. The relays, however, I have not been able to check. Not sure how to do that...they are different than the fuses.

Whenever you go to start the car do you hear a click right behind the stereo in the center console?
When I try to start the car, all I hear is one single click, but not like a dead battery that won't drive the starter, with repeated clicking. Its just a single click.
Its kinda near the center console, I suppose!
 
Unless you did a load test on it 12.7 volts doesn't mean it's good.
Ok, you are right, but I don't have that kind of battery tester. Can I do a load test with my multi-meter? I really suck at electrical but honestly, this same battery cranks my truck over really fast. Its a good battery, so I'm not thinking that's the issue.
 
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Have someone crank the engine while you hold a voltmeter across the battery. If the battery is bad the voltage will drop to less than 7 volts while you are cranking. If the voltage doesn't drop at all, then there is no current going through the starter.
 
When I try to start the car, all I hear is one single click, but not like a dead battery that won't drive the starter, with repeated clicking.... Its just a single click.
Its kinda near the center console, I suppose!

I had same issue with my car, you need to bypass the starter relay located behind the stereo in the center console

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Thank me later
 
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From what I understand, the relay for the starter sits on top of the starter itself. Power to that relay comes directly from the ignition switch that is in the steering column.
 
I think your problem is the ignition switch or whatever is feeding it. The ignition switch powers the door locks and the windows. Remember, you can't open your doors or windows unless your ignition switch is in the run position.
 
could be a bad master switch
I have changed the window switches with some known good ones from my other DSM, and still the windows don't work. I always turn the ignition switch to ON when I test the windows. Is there a relay somewhere in the center console for the doors and windows?? Security system lockout or something??
 
Nobody stated the potential for a bad battery?
Are you 100% sure it's good?
I agree. Continuous clicking (not mentioned before) is a low battery. Doesn’t matter what voltage reads, CCA (cold crank amperage) is what it needs. This may also explain the windows not working. Bring your battery to the parts store and have them test it. Do this first before you start pulling your hair out.
 
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