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dsm_94_4ever

10+ Year Contributor
73
0
Mar 25, 2010
Roseburg, Oregon
Here's my problem I had my head off of my car due to some valve work that I had done so I put everything back together myself and took it to a shop to have the new timing components put on and have it put in time wich included new gates blue timing belt and balance shaft belt and new oem tensioner they also put in some new fuel injector O rings because I guess I forgot to put them on when I installed all the new stuff.The problem is when I picked up the car it was running great actually better then I have ever seen it it started rite up and idled great.So I paid the shop for there work and took off when I was driving through town I was watching my boost gauge and my boost gauge wasn't coming out of vac and I thought to myself that it was kinda strange but I wasn't getting on it and trying to build boost so I thought it was ok.So on my way out of town coming onto a country highway I decided to drop from 4th to 3rd build some boost and really see how shes running that's when the problem happen'd all of a sudden the car started to lurch back and forth and pretty much lose all power.So I pulled off into a vacant parking lot and poped the hood to see if anything looked wrong couldn't see anything wrong like maybe a coupler popped off or something.So I figured maybe id try to limp it back to the shop and it wouldn't even accelerate it would just bog and almost die but the strange thing was is it would idle fine no miss or anything.

So I went and got my truck and trailer and took it back to the shop and they said they would get on it monday in the mean time what do you guys think could have happened?

- Timing off?
- Major boost leak?
 
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Sounds like they didn't tension the timing Tensioner/ Tensioner pulley right and the timing belt skipped a tooth

That or one big ass boost leak. I remember taking my car for a spin one day, giving it gas and something sounded like it popped off. It was running like crap, when I got home, the uper intercooler piping was off =D
 
Sounds like they didn't tension the timing Tensioner/ Tensioner pulley right and the timing belt skipped a tooth

Im kinda doubting the timing jump for three reason

1-I drove maybe three miles from the shop

2-Ive had my old car sheer the teeth off the timing belt at idle and basically jump timing and it instantly shut down

3-Im really scared to even think about that LOL.:barf:
 
Take a closer look at your intercooler piping. You definitely have a boost/exhaust leak somewhere. Check your couplers, too. What does it sound like when you drive it?

I doubt it jumped timing. If it did, the engine would have instantly seized and stopped working. Many DSMs have died from timing belt failure.
 
Take a closer look at your intercooler piping. You definitely have a boost/exhaust leak somewhere. Check your couplers, too. What does it sound like when you drive it?

I doubt it jumped timing. If it did, the engine would have instantly seized and stopped working. Many DSMs have died from timing belt failure.

Well im currently not driving it.I took it back to the shop but the few miles I did drive it it ran great actually it ran the best today since ive owned it,before the problem happen'd.And when it lost power on acceleration it would still sit and idle fine but wouldn't accelerate.

Keep in mind this happen'd right away the first time I tried to boost.

Personally its got me thinking its a major boost leak or maybe a fuel problem the car has sat since last summer but it is a DSM so who knows.
 
Sounds more like a boost leak for sure. If the Timing belt went that's basically catastrophic failure. Sounds like mine did when then IC pipes popped off.
 
The day I bought my car, literally drove 50 miles to get it and started the drive home. About 10 miles into the drive home I decided "ok now I own the car, I'm gonna get on it" so I drop it in third and go to pass a semi... pop! Black smoke everywhere, zero acceleration, put it in neutral and coasted on to the shoulder. Car still idled but I shut it down anyway. Popped the hood, peaked around and everything "looked fine". Went to start it and got nothing, turned over but no start. Went under the hood again and gave the intercooler piping a good shake and low and behold the uicp fell apart at the coupler under the intake.

I had no tools on me and had to get it back together and use my hulk fingers to tighten the t clamp. Made it the rest of the drive on it after that.

Sounds exactly like my situation.

Btw, if the car sat for an extended time you could have some dry rot cracks in the couplers that wouldn't be very visible until you stretch them out... case in point

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This crack wasn't visible nor could I feel it while it was installed on the car.
 

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I really hope that's all it is :pray: the coupler's and inter cooler pipes were all taken off then put back on when I installed every thing and they are about 2 1/2 years old although I have not drove it much it seemed like a cheep kit I got from the DSM Graveyard the pipes were OK but the couplers and clamps look cheap and it also came with a knock off Greddy BOV that im not running im sticking with the stock 1g BOV for now.But I didn't hear any pop when this happened and I don't remember any smoke but my music was up pretty loud and I wasn't paying attention behind me two things I probably should not have done on the first test drive of the summer in the Talon.

Like you stated Brizio when I retuned with the trailer to get the car it would not start.
 
That intercooler coupler was also a cheap pos (the one pictured) as you can see its not a layered silicone coupler, very weak and brittle to the elements. I'm sure the "pretty vacuum line kits" in the ricer section of autozone are made of this same material this coupler was.

If it is indeed cheap couplers I got what I feel is a pretty smokin deal from extreme psi on all new stuff for mine. 2' of coupler in 1' sections (I cut to fit my own) and all new t clamps for I think $60 shipped? Best investment I've made, no boost leaks and tested my pipes and intercooler to 25 psi for giggles. I run 17 and haven't had an issue since the replacement.

But all that being said, check the couplers, hand turn the motor and check timing just to be 100%. No need to spend $60 on couplers if its a bigger issue :thumb:
 
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