"Newer" 4g64 in a 2g

[arrowhead]

I'm pretty sure it is. It has the same trans bolt pattern as the Evo 4-9 engine block. It was also mounted transverse form the DSM like the Evo engines are.

Your thinking of jumping on the Evo boat too? . I've been considering it myself.

Tametalon- Thanks man. This starter plate just needs to hurry up and get here so I can see what needs to be done!

Any news yet, this is veryyyyyyyyyyy interesting.

 

[BK85]

Can you tell me what was the reason for getting a 4G64 from the Outlander instead from a Gallant, (several down at Upull and Pay) or a dead Spyder?

Those are going the right way already and the turbo head and manifolds bolt right up.

Or is there some advantage to the Outlander motor?

Sorry if I missed something your posts.

BK85

 

[WES_393]

Can you tell me what was the reason for getting a 4G64 from the Outlander instead from a Gallant, (several down at Upull and Pay) or a dead Spyder?

Those are going the right way already and the turbo head and manifolds bolt right up.

Or is there some advantage to the Outlander motor?

Sorry if I missed something your posts.

BK85

There is no real gains from using the 3g 4g64 block, it has just been said that it won't work and I'm on a mission to prove that wrong. In case you didn't see the pics, the turbo head and manifolds bolt right up to this engine block as well. So far, it is nearly identical to the 2g 4g64 block with the exception of the bell housing bolt pattern. So no, there are no advantages to using the Outlander block other than it give us a new source of 4g64 blocks. One day the Galants and Spyders will be gone (I already can't find any at UPAP that aren't blown up or missing major peices) so it would be cool to have alternative options.


As for the lack of updates I apologize. I go to school full time, work full time, and have 2 daily driven DSM's to keep up on. One of which will be hitting the 350hp mark this summer. Needless to say a project engine block comes last on the budget. But I have not abandoned the project at all, in fact I'm currently trying to find a 2g AWD manual trans starter plate for the mock up. So if anybody has one for a decent price (or maybe one they would like to donate to the project) please let me know ASAP!

 

[arrowhead]

Any progress?

 

[WES_393]

Any progress?

A bit. After doing some measuring on a 2g 4g63, it looks like the only difference is the lower right hand corner. I won't need to make a full bracket for the right side, just a corner peice. And if I'm not mistaken, many of the 2g guys with 6-bolt engines don't use the Kiggly adapter plate which means they are running with 1 less bolt in the trans.

The adpater plate I bought never showed up so I'll be picking up another this weekend. I'm seriously considering just drilling out the trans to accept the new dowel pin on the 3g block. That would make this tons easier, make sure the trans is bolted correctly, and would hold more torque than I'll ever put through this block. So check back Friday and I'll have some updates.

 

[dragonov_elite]

Very interesting thread so far. One thing i can see being a possible problem. How long the do you see the knock sensor lasting while being that close to the exhaust system? Are they made for that kind of heat?

 

[ThunderChild]

nice work man! im impressed, keep plugging away! as for knock sensor location, idk if it would be a problem. on all the toyota motors ive worked on, they put the knock sensor in what seems the hottest possible spot. on the 7mgte, they are both right next to the turbo manifold, and work just fine. on the 7mge (n/a) it is dead center in the block right next to the exhaust manifold.

so with a small shield i would think it would be ok. but it is a dsm after all...

 

[delta448]

I would just use this hole on the right side (our head's intake side) of the block for the knock sensor. This was used as an intake manifold support bracket boss on my 2003 4G64 engine, and is located in the jacket right behind cylinder 2 so it should function pretty much the same as the location on our 4G63 engines. Most people toss the intake manifold brace in the trash anyhow, and you wouldn't be able to use it with any of the available SMIMs either.

 

[m3th0d]

I have the same 4g64 short block 2.3 stroker it came included with a deal i made when I bought the car. I'm wondering if I can use the evo 8 head on it, I know it will be backwords but is it possible?

 

[bryanwheat]

I have the same 4g64 short block 2.3 stroker it came included with a deal i made when I bought the car. I'm wondering if I can use the evo 8 head on it, I know it will be backwords but is it possible?

Putting the evo head on it will put the exhaust manifold and turbo on the back of the engine and the intake on the front of the engine.

 

[ThunderChild]

Putting the evo head on it will put the exhaust manifold and turbo on the back of the engine and the intake on the front of the engine.

i think he knows that, hes just wondering if its possible. which, i dont see why not, but the question still presents itself: why?

 

[m3th0d]

Reason is that I can get an evo8 head for 40 dlls and I wont have to modify anything but the exhaust to come down the back. I know I would have to shield the heat and make other mods but at least this way I have the head and block without any mods to it.

 

[bryanwheat]

Reason is that I can get an evo8 head for 40 dlls and I wont have to modify anything but the exhaust to come down the back. I know I would have to shield the heat and make other mods but at least this way I have the head and block without any mods to it.

And your coolant hoses will face towards the firewall. The starter will interfere with the turbo. You will have to remake your intercooler piping, intake pipe, and wiring. This is an awful idea. There is nothing better about the evo head that would make this a good idea.

 

[m3th0d]

And your coolant hoses will face towards the firewall. The starter will interfere with the turbo. You will have to remake your intercooler piping, intake pipe, and wiring. This is an awful idea. There is nothing better about the evo head that would make this a good idea.

Very true, I agree I didnt take all that into account.

 

[DSMReviver]

Keep going keep us updated please.

 

[WES_393]

I have the same 4g64 short block 2.3 stroker it came included with a deal i made when I bought the car. I'm wondering if I can use the evo 8 head on it, I know it will be backwords but is it possible?

No, like Bryan was saying it's totally backassward from the DSM head. And trust me when I say the ONLY plus about the Evo head design is a smaller cylinder dome which raises compression to 9:1. For the work and price of installing an Evo head, you could buy 9:1 pistons and be done with it. But, like I'm showing here, the DSM head will bolt right onto that 3g 4g64 you have. But enough about Evo heads, lets keep this about 3g 4g6X engines.

Keep going keep us updated please.

I certainly will. I get paid at the stroke of midnight today so I'll be ordering a brand new 2g starter plate from STM.

As for the knock sensor, I think it would be protected from heat IF it can clear the water pipe. It would sit right behind it. If not, I'll use the spot Delta showed. With all the pointleas brackets, supports, and random holes, there is no way the knock sensor will be an issue. I hope to get the ball rolling on this soon, just too many damn projects right now

 

[m3th0d]

No, like Bryan was saying it's totally backassward from the DSM head. And trust me when I say the ONLY plus about the Evo head design is a smaller cylinder dome which raises compression to 9:1. For the work and price of installing an Evo head, you could buy 9:1 pistons and be done with it. But, like I'm showing here, the DSM head will bolt right onto that 3g 4g64 you have. But enough about Evo heads, lets keep this about 3g 4g6X engines.



I certainly will. I get paid at the stroke of midnight today so I'll be ordering a brand new 2g starter plate from STM.

As for the knock sensor, I think it would be protected from heat IF it can clear the water pipe. It would sit right behind it. If not, I'll use the spot Delta showed. With all the pointleas brackets, supports, and random holes, there is no way the knock sensor will be an issue. I hope to get the ball rolling on this soon, just too many damn projects right now

Yes I looked into it and it would have been a terrible idea. I'm doing same project too and I will try to keep up with you since I already have a built 4g64 block.

I have a question, how are you planning on covering the extra holes on the block?

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Here is what I ran into a little bit ago ...

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In order for the tranny and engine to sit correctly I have to weld and retap the top right hole and the left one and weld a piece on the bottom right and tap a hole on it too. I don't it's a good idea but im going all in on this and I'm going to try to make it work.

P.s. Sorry for the bad pic I have poor lighting and the camera on my cell is not the best and by no means am I trying to steal this thread sorry I just wanted to share this.

 

[DSMReviver]

Yes I looked into it and it would have been a terrible idea. I'm doing same project too and I will try to keep up with you since I already have a built 4g64 block.



Here is what I ran into a little bit ago ...


P.s. Sorry for the bad pic I have poor lighting and the camera on my cell is not the best and by no means am I trying to steal this thread sorry I just wanted to share this.

That is a 1g starter plate. It will not work, looks like you will need a 2g one. Look here vvvvvvvvvv

WTB: 1G FWD Turbo Starter Plate

There are differences between the two starter plates.

 

[19Eclipse90]

That is a 1g starter plate. It will not work, looks like you will need a 2g one. Look here vvvvvvvvvv

WTB: 1G FWD Turbo Starter Plate

There are differences between the two starter plates.

Are we looking at the same thing?

The poster above you clearly has a plate that looks like the 2G plate in the thread you linked to, which is the old plate. The new plate (1G) looks very different.

 

[m3th0d]

Are we looking at the same thing?

The poster above you clearly has a plate that looks like the 2G plate in the thread you linked to, which is the old plate. The new plate (1G) looks very different.

What he ^ said, I got this plate off my car which is a 97 gsx 2g.

 

[WES_393]

Thanks for showing that m3thod. The trans in my Talon recently decided that it didn't want to be friends with the front diff. So I'll have the trans off to go to Jacks. Before I take it, I will (or attempt to) bolt up the 3g 4g64 to the trans. That will give us a definitive answer. I'll also be putting the 2g 4g63 motor mount on the 3g block and dropping it into the bay to see how well it fits.

 

[m3th0d]

Thanks for showing that m3thod. The trans in my Talon recently decided that it didn't want to be friends with the front diff. So I'll have the trans off to go to Jacks. Before I take it, I will (or attempt to) bolt up the 3g 4g64 to the trans. That will give us a definitive answer. I'll also be putting the 2g 4g63 motor mount on the 3g block and dropping it into the bay to see how well it fits.

You're welcome, I haven't checked with the motor mount yet I first want the engine to line up to the tranny and then I'll move on to the next problem. I'm currently working on a sandwich plate to add the new holes up and I will be doing that with stainless steel I dont want to weld to the cast iron block. I will post up some pics some time this week so you guys can get an idea of what I'm talking about.

 

[mysticj]

I see I'm not the only one taking up this project. The only difference is that I'm planning to use the G4JS block, Hyundai version of the 4G64 DOHC.

 

[arrowhead]

What models hyundai? and what years?

thanks

 

[mysticj]

What models hyundai? and what years?

thanks

hyundai sonata and santa fe. Kia optima. 99-04. the dsm head will make the compression around 11.5:1