New to the world of coil-overs. (Impressions and Questions)

[LandoAWD]

All right, so I've been digging through some threads on coil-overs, adjustments, mounts, alignments, etc and I haven't seen something that specifically answers the following question...

I just installed Koni/GC fronts and AGX/GC rears with currently unknown spring rates, though I can likely find out. Now, I know the suspension is going to be stiffer than my GR2/Pro-Kit setup was, as well as lower, but there have been a few bumps with the Konis on full-soft that seemed almost like I was hitting the bumpstop. I can't recreate travel of that nature with a buddy essentially jumping up and down on the corner, but that's what it feels like to me.

So, on to the question...I'm running the AGXs on 7 and the Konis on full-soft. For streetability I plan to soften the rear. If I firm up the fronts, will that solve the problem I described above by allowing less free travel in the strut?

Thanks in advance.

 

[99gst_racer]

Do you know what the free-standing lengths are on those springs?

If the sping is too short or if the sping perch has been lowered on the shock body, it can cause the shock to bottom out. I ran into the exact same problem with my old Koni/Hypercoil set-up.

 

[GreenGSX]

All right, so I've been digging through some threads on coil-overs, adjustments, mounts, alignments, etc and I haven't seen something that specifically answers the following question...

I just installed Koni/GC fronts and AGX/GC rears with currently unknown spring rates, though I can likely find out. Now, I know the suspension is going to be stiffer than my GR2/Pro-Kit setup was, as well as lower, but there have been a few bumps with the Konis on full-soft that seemed almost like I was hitting the bumpstop. I can't recreate travel of that nature with a buddy essentially jumping up and down on the corner, but that's what it feels like to me.

So, on to the question...I'm running the AGXs on 7 and the Konis on full-soft. For streetability I plan to soften the rear. If I firm up the fronts, will that solve the problem I described above by allowing less free travel in the strut?

Thanks in advance.

The rear AGX's are way to stiff. I would run them at 1 or 2 and bring the fronts up to half way.

 

[LandoAWD]

There isn't a factory perch on the Konis, just the threaded/rotating perch for the GC unit. If I can get the car in the air this weekend, I can grab that spring measurement.

I can say that the ride is great on streets that are better than average, 'round here.

The rear AGX's are way to stiff. I would run them at 1 or 2 and bring the fronts up to half way.

I there a specific way of knowing how tight/loose the Konis are? I loosened them, then counted turns towards "tight" on the little dial tool over lunch. Will do on the softening suggestion, though.

 

[snowborder714]

Also, keep in mind the Koni adjustment isn't linear.

 

[LandoAWD]

...meaning...

 

[snowborder714]

If you go adjusting the rebound, one turn is not going to be the same adjustment as the next. So if you have 5 settings between soft and hard, each setting is not going to make a 20% adjustment.

DG goes into it better in this thread, but that's the basics.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/han...ice-perm-rear-koni-setting-go-w-agx-rear.html

 

[LandoAWD]

I even went through his postings as part of the process.

I found myself more confused after that post. (though I get the turn =/= the next turn)

 

[snowborder714]

What other questions do you have or what of his don't you get that you think would be helpful to you?

 

[LandoAWD]

I think a shock dyno would be helpful...

It's just the adjustment "crapshoot" that kills me. (See the point about one shock being set ott hard, one to soft, then coming up the same)

 

[snowborder714]

A shock dyno would be extremely helpful. I just wish I could afford one.

 

[GreenGSX]

I think a shock dyno would be helpful...

It's just the adjustment "crapshoot" that kills me. (See the point about one shock being set ott hard, one to soft, then coming up the same)

Don't worry about it so much. Just adjust each side of the front to about half way and turn the rears down to 2. When you hit the road course or autocross leave the rears alone and put the fronts on full stiff. Then adjust the rear to get more or less (stiffer to softer) over steer.

 

[snowborder714]

I also believe DG mentioned somewhere that you don't want to adjust Koni's past 3/4 towards hard as it's not good for the shock because you start adjusting rebound and compression.

 

[LandoAWD]

I need to find the "hard " limit on the adjustment, then figure out a 50/50 point on turns.

 

[LandoAWD]

Per the previous owner "The springs are 440 lbs./in. Front and 350 lbs./in"

Sadly, I'm going to the beach this weekend and won't be able to work on it for another week. :/

 

[99gst_racer]

Sadly, I'm going to the beach this weekend and won't be able to work on it for another week. :/

You poor thing. I'm still waking up to a frost covered lawn and car every morning.

 

[LandoAWD]

It's for a wedding, more so than fun.

As I drive more, I'm not sure it's bouncing off the bumpstop as much as just "clunking".

 

[99gst_racer]

I'll bet it's the shock rod bottoming out in the shock body. It makes for an awefully violent clunk. Did you ever figure out how tall those springs are?

 

[LandoAWD]

See beach post.

I'll ping the previous owner and see if he knows, though.

 

[KGB Pilot125]

It's for a wedding, more so than fun.

As I drive more, I'm not sure it's bouncing off the bumpstop as much as just "clunking".

Could the clunking be a strut mount?

i am putting my GC kit on today with my AGX's the ones I gotin the box were
375F
250R

I am thinking that I am going to end with a stiffer setup we will see though.

 

[LandoAWD]

^^^Ding ding ding ding

I hopped my frame on the fender and rode the car like a Brahma bull. The strut is indeed moving visibly where it mounts to the tower. Not sure how I can get the damned bolts tighter, though. :/

 

[KGB Pilot125]

^^^Ding ding ding ding

I hopped my frame on the fender and rode the car like a Brahma bull. The strut is indeed moving visibly where it mounts to the tower. Not sure how I can get the damned bolts tighter, though. :/

Probably time for new mounts, Mine had play in it it to. I didnt replace them bcause its more motivation to get the caster camber plates!!!

 

[eclipsh]

^^^Ding ding ding ding

I hopped my frame on the fender and rode the car like a Brahma bull. The strut is indeed moving visibly where it mounts to the tower. Not sure how I can get the damned bolts tighter, though. :/

I'm going to go with what GreenGSX said for adjustment. I've got all four corners set to one turn but I have all Koni's. On my 1g I left the rear AGX's set at 1 or 2 for street driving.

For my Galant (2g suspension) I ran into the same problem on the front shock's moving around in the upper bushing. The factory shocks use a sleeve inside the rubber bushing at the top but it is too narrow of an internal diameter to work with the Koni's. I went to the hardware store looking for options and hit the plumbing section. I bought some threaded steel pipe sections and stuck those into the rubber bushing at the top. If I remember right they were 1/2" diameter pipe and about 1.5"-2" long. I just jammed those into the rubber and tightened the nuts down on there. It seems to be working really well. It lets everything bend around like it should but top to bottom motion is basically gone. Just take one of the bushing pairs into the store with you so you can pick the right length/diameter pipe. The rears didn't need it but I don't recall why.

 

[LandoAWD]

I still have the GR2s sitting. Is the sleeve inside the bumpstop? They are 100% complete minus the mounts (reused).

 

[eclipsh]

For my 2g the sleeve I'm referring to is in the bushing at the top of the shock where the shaft passes through the mounting plate.