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Tland0727

Probationary Member
24
1
Dec 12, 2021
Corpus Christi, Texas
Hey guys need some help here.

For 1 I found today my ECU only about 6 months old I found loose. So I tighten it up. I got New fuel pump filter, my relay everything checks out good. My issue 8s. When my car has been sitting a couple. I go start it up. She purrs sounds and runs on point. After about 3-6 miles I drive it starts to act like it's out of gas. It's a 98 2g non turbo. I'm stuc.

I'm thinking ECU but I'm not sure can I please get some advise
 
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I’d pull the injectors and send them to FIC either way for cleaning. Even if that’s not your issue they need cleaning if the fuel they’ve been getting looks like that.
 
Did you replace the fuel pump sock and fuel filter when you replaced the pump?
Yes I did

I’d pull the injectors and send them to FIC either way for cleaning. Even if that’s not your issue they need cleaning if the fuel they’ve been getting looks like that.
Yes definitely of course. Thanks

As I said, finish thoroughly cleaning out the lines. Better yet, disconnect from both ends and pump gasoline through the lines continuously to flush out any sediment remaining in them. You may also have to clean or replace the injectors.
Ok I gotcha. Yal have been much help and I appreciate all of if. Thanks
 
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I believe you’re on the right track now. Make sure to keep us updated.

Also, as a suggestion for in future threads, please try to give the whole story up front, (I.e, all this started after running the tank dry) it may help with leading you to the answer more efficiently.
 
Something doesn't add up for a fuel delivery issue. Why would it need to rest for an hour to run well again for 3 miles? If crud were getting pressed against the filter sock during the short drive and interrupting the fuel flow, then it should abate after the car is turned off for just a minute. More time can't magically make the clog resolve.
I would try removing the temp sender to the ECU, let it hang out in the air under the hood (perhaps twist-tie it somewhere safe for a test drive), and fill the open hole with a plug. See if that changes the behavior at all. The ECU should stay in open-loop because the temp will never go high enough while running like this. If closed-loop operation is the culprit, this would prevent that. This is only diagnostic, not suggesting you should leave it like that for long.
You should still try to get all that crap out of your fuel system, of course, and getting the injectors cleaned and tested is only $100, and about 1.5 wk turn-around.
 
Something doesn't add up for a fuel delivery issue. Why would it need to rest for an hour to run well again for 3 miles? If crud were getting pressed against the filter sock during the short drive and interrupting the fuel flow, then it should abate after the car is turned off for just a minute. More time can't magically make the clog resolve.
I would try removing the temp sender to the ECU, let it hang out in the air under the hood (perhaps twist-tie it somewhere safe for a test drive), and fill the open hole with a plug. See if that changes the behavior at all. The ECU should stay in open-loop because the temp will never go high enough while running like this. If closed-loop operation is the culprit, this would prevent that. This is only diagnostic, not suggesting you should leave it like that for long.
You should still try to get all that crap out of your fuel system, of course, and getting the injectors cleaned and tested is only $100, and about 1.5 wk turn-around.
That does make sense. Another thing I got is the obd2 scanner. My 2g don't communicate with. Nor autozone nor oriely's. Idk if that could be an issue also
 
Something doesn't add up for a fuel delivery issue. Why would it need to rest for an hour to run well again for 3 miles? If crud were getting pressed against the filter sock during the short drive and interrupting the fuel flow, then it should abate after the car is turned off for just a minute. More time can't magically make the clog resolve.
I would try removing the temp sender to the ECU, let it hang out in the air under the hood (perhaps twist-tie it somewhere safe for a test drive), and fill the open hole with a plug. See if that changes the behavior at all. The ECU should stay in open-loop because the temp will never go high enough while running like this. If closed-loop operation is the culprit, this would prevent that. This is only diagnostic, not suggesting you should leave it like that for long.
You should still try to get all that crap out of your fuel system, of course, and getting the injectors cleaned and tested is only $100, and about 1.5 wk turn-around.
What about just unplugging the sensor instead? Or would that just cause an open reading instead of trying to trick it into reading a lower temp?
 
You need to check for +12v and ground on your obd connector, you could simply have a blown fuse or it could be more nefarious but start with the voltage and ground on the connector.
 
You need to check for +12v and ground on your obd connector, you could simply have a blown fuse or it could be more nefarious but start with the voltage and ground on the connector.
Your talking about checked voltage on the pins at ECU?
 
I'm talking about you taking a voltmeter and checking for power and ground at the diagnostic port connector.
Oh OK my apology. I feel like an idiot. Now you know how my car got this way. I gotcha. It started right up yesterday. So I moved back to it's parking spot. I will definitely hit it this weekend. And will keep you updated.
 
I'm talking about you taking a voltmeter and checking for power and ground at the diagnostic port connector.
Hey chief do you think I need to take off injectors to have clean
Before I ran out of gas my 2g was running dam near perfect. Even right now I can go out and start and it will run good for a little while maybe 2-3 miles. I haven't had a chance check voltage at diagnostic port but i will this weekend.
 
It wouldn't hurt but between the sock in the tank and the factory fuel filter, not much should end up in the actual injectors anyway, but it never hurts. When is the last time you installed a new fuel filter?
 
It wouldn't hurt but between the sock in the tank and the factory fuel filter, not much should end up in the actual injectors anyway, but it never hurts. When is the last time you installed a new fuel filter?
Fuel filter last Monday. Not even a week. I'm really not an auto mechanic but growin up my dad wouldn't let me buy a car unless something was wrong with it. And over the years I've learned some things. Now air-conditioning. That's my work!!
 
I am still going to suggest that you connect a fuel pressure tester to it when its running to see if your losing pressure when it shuts down, pumps can go thermally intermittent.
 
I am still going to suggest that you connect a fuel pressure tester to it when its running to see if your losing pressure when it shuts down, pumps can go thermally intermittent.
Ok.. I could possibly rent that at autozone or oriely's. Tomorrow I'm working on injectors then clean out fuel line from fuel rail to filter. Definitely keep you updated. I get good knowledge from here. Thanks
 
I am still going to suggest that you connect a fuel pressure tester to it when its running to see if your losing pressure when it shuts down, pumps can go thermally intermittent.
Ok . I got running again. Haven't driven yet. I still need to get fuel pressure gauge and test that. But I'm telling you mantras was hell for me. The 2 bolts that hold the fuel rail on took all weekend for those. Just could gettem started. I plugged my injectors back in but this one. I can't seem to find other end of it.it comes off end of injector harness. Oh and I do get power at diagnostics port

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I think that plug may be for the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing area. I didn’t see a harness running by your timing gear yet. The bolts for the fuel rail are definitely a pain.
 
I think that plug may be for the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing area. I didn’t see a harness running by your timing gear yet. The bolts for the fuel rail are definitely a pain.

Well sir that plug went into top rear of intake. She drove alot better. Alot. But My idle revs up and down though. Oh and that plug have know idea what it is
 
I think that plug may be for the temperature sensor in the thermostat housing area. I didn’t see a harness running by your timing gear yet. The bolts for the fuel rail are definitely a pain.
Ok verdict on my 2g. Well after replacing fuel pump, pump sock , fuel filter. Taking my injectors out cleaning them with gumout and a 9v battery. Flushed the fuel lines out. Cleaned throttle body real good. She started right up. Sounded and felt good as she always has. Drove around the block. Nice. I'm gonna go again. Well she died. Same as before. So know I'm working on the diagnostic port trying to get my obd2 to communicate. My hands are almost up in the air but I'm not Givin up on her.
 
Ok verdict on my 2g. Well after replacing fuel pump, pump sock , fuel filter. Taking my injectors out cleaning them with gumout and a 9v battery. Flushed the fuel lines out. Cleaned throttle body real good. She started right up. Sounded and felt good as she always has. Drove around the block. Nice. I'm gonna go again. Well she died. Same as before. So know I'm working on the diagnostic port trying to get my obd2 to communicate. My hands are almost up in the air but I'm not Givin up on her.
It still seems to me that once it tries to switch between open and closed loop is when it becomes unhappy. Still leads me to the o2 sensor and ECT sensor. Hopefully someone can give you some better ideas.

Getting the OBD2 port working and being able to watch the live data would help with my theory and rule that out.

-Daniel
 
It still seems to me that once it tries to switch between open and closed loop is when it becomes unhappy. Still leads me to the o2 sensor and ECT sensor. Hopefully someone can give you some better ideas.

Getting the OBD2 port working and being able to watch the live data would help with my theory and rule that out.

-Daniel
For sure. I researched noncommunicating between ecu and obd2. Could be as simple as the plug itself. Worn out need to close where it gets better connection
 
It still seems to me that once it tries to switch between open and closed loop is when it becomes unhappy. Still leads me to the o2 sensor and ECT sensor. Hopefully someone can give you some better ideas.

Getting the OBD2 port working and being able to watch the live data would help with my theory and rule that out.

-Daniel
I may have the stuff to make a dummy or sensor without the wires. Maybe I could try and trick the ecu. Idk i say it on you tube where I guy installed a fake o2 sensor. Can't hurt
 
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