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new guy here 90 tsi

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blakkat

10+ Year Contributor
216
1
Sep 29, 2012
desplaines, Illinois
Hi guys, im ryan from chicago. I just picked up a 1g last night. I daily a 2011 mazdaspeed3 at the moment.

picked up the 1g to build as a track car. I'm having issues finding a good 12v power source which is on with the car on or off for my porsport electronic boost gauge.

working on a couple quirks with this car. first thing is, is the 14b supposed to sound like a jet plane when it spools? my speed3 sounds completely different when it spools.

i have a mild idle surge.

Boost is only hitting 10 lbs on the old crappy mechanical gauge that came with the car. what should it be set at?

leaking a little oil from the pressure sending unit.

grinds a little on the 1-2 shift.

thanks guys.

btw here are some pictures of my speed3. ill get some pictures of the 1g asap when i get her cleaned.
 

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picked up the 1g to build as a track car. I'm having issues finding a good 12v power source which is on with the car on or off for my porsport electronic boost gauge.

I use my 12v constant from my cigarette lighter. But there are others. Check out the electrical section on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions


working on a couple quirks with this car. first thing is, is the 14b supposed to sound like a jet plane when it spools?

They all tend to sound different. Mine is fairly loud, but I've taken the intake off and check everything for shaft play and there's none. I suggest doing the same. A little side to side is ok, you want to make sure there is no in and out shaft play.

i have a mild idle surge.

Welcome to the DSM world. It wouldn't be a DSM without idle surge. This could be a number of things. Top things to check would be boost leaks and your ISC (Idle speed controller), which is bolted to the throttle body just under the intake elbow.

Boost is only hitting 10 lbs on the old crappy mechanical gauge that came with the car. what should it be set at?

This boost gauge is not actually a mechanical boost gauge. The stock in dash gauges are ECU based on what the boost "should be". Realistically you're probably running around 12-13 pounds if everything is stock. Maybe a little less if you're leaking somewhere.

leaking a little oil from the pressure sending unit.

Again, welcome to the DSM world. Next time you're doing an oil change take it out and clean the threads, apply a little silicon (not much) and give it 24-48 hours to dry after you thread it back in before adding oil. Should fix your leak.

grinds a little on the 1-2 shift.

Simple solution, changing the gear oil. Replace it with some BG Syncroshift. If that doesn't seem to fix it try adjusting your clutch, it may not be grabbing and releasing where it should.

Check out the links below, you'll be glad you did.


VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

Tech Guide - DSMtuners

DSM 4G63 Maintenance Guide - DSMtuners

Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners


Good luck.
 
Already checked for shaft play and all is good. also i mean the guy i bought it off had a mechanic boost gauge installed. the car has some kind of makeshift boost controller not sure what brand. also previous owner says it has a 2g manifold, eprom ecu with a custom chip,it has a 2g maf, and 2g intake, bpv is vta at the moment so not ideal at all.

also i did some reading previously about mod paths. my plan so far is

timing belt
replace all fluids
check the system for boost leaks
front mount intercooler
a fuel pump that can support e85
272 cams
probably a holset hx35 or a 16g with a 20g compressor wheel for teh sleeper status
fp race manifold
gonna upgrade the head as much as i can for higher rpm capability.
act 2600 clutch
and either dsmlink or an aem ems standalone.
then start working on drivetrain upgrades.
looking to get into the obligitory 10 second club.
 
No, I've been reading up and have heard people have the compressor housing machined to fit a 20g compressor wheel on a 16g. And make a hybrid
 
Last edited:
picked up the 1g to build as a track car. I'm having issues finding a good 12v power source which is on with the car on or off for my porsport electronic boost gauge.
The fuse panel is about 12" below the pillar under the dash. Most guys tap into one of the circuits on the fuse panel.
working on a couple quirks with this car. first thing is, is the 14b supposed to sound like a jet plane when it spools? my speed3 sounds completely different when it spools.
Define "jet plane". To me the 14B is super-quiet compared to, say, a HX40.

Johns 98 Talon TSi - YouTube

^ If it sounds anything like that, it's functioning normally. If it makes a supercharger-like "buzz" when spooling, either the turbo is failing or you have a boost leak close to the compressor cover somewhere which is normally a blown j-pipe gasket, loose clamp at the j-pipe connection, or leaking compressor cover o-ring.

i have a mild idle surge.
Probably a fast idle air valve issue. Seems to be a random issue which isn't traceable to any one car, 1G or 2G. You can either replace the FIAV or block it off, but blocking it off means you'll have to sit with the car until the engine is warm because it won't idle on it's own.

Boost is only hitting 10 lbs on the old crappy mechanical gauge that came with the car. what should it be set at?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/1893-stock-boost-merged-5-7-a.html

leaking a little oil from the pressure sending unit.
Simple- replace it before it leaves you stranded.
grinds a little on the 1-2 shift.
That's a given on older DSM's. You can try using some Synchromesh trans fluid to see if it improves, but it's probably related to the clutch and synchros....in almost every case the clutch wears out and destroys the synchros before the owner replaces the clutch.
 
yeah it sounds like that. its really loud compared to my speed3.

so more issues today.
i was told that the 1990 are the worst year to buy and that i need to do a 91+ wiring conversion
also one of the alternator bolts walked out and the belt nearly destroyed itself due to lack of tension.
i only paid 2600 for the car. would it be worth it to fix all of these issues, or just sell it and pickup a slightly newer 1g
i know im building it as a track car, but ripping the entire wiring harness out and redoing the whole thing seems like a lot of work that i could save time and money on
 
I'm gonna kill the kid who sold me this, just checked boost and it's at 21lbs on the stock fuel pump, why do these people even mod cars?
 
yeah it sounds like that. its really loud compared to my speed3.

so more issues today.
i was told that the 1990 are the worst year to buy and that i need to do a 91+ wiring conversion

First off dont know about the rest of the crew but I LOVE my 90 AWD. This being my 3rd. Im curious what you are basing that 90 is the worst year off of? These are cars that are 22 years old so theres gonna be upkeep. Every year has its flaws bro.
Second, why do you need to do a 91 wiring swap or did I miss something?
 
I just re read your post and your talking about selling it cause of leak at the sending unit ,idle problem and the belt falling apart bahaha ROTF!!! Your in way over your head if thats the case.
 
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