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kspharris

15+ Year Contributor
478
5
Aug 9, 2005
Goodlettsville, Tennessee
Hey all I picked up a 91 n/t auto 2.0 a couple weeks ago. I'm currently trying to get all the minor things fixed and I have some questions about them. The coolant boils but the car doesn't show it's over heating. I haven't hooked up my logger to it yet but will soon. That's not that big a deal I hope. I was going to try radiator cap and tstat first. I'll flush the system when I pull the motor to rebuild the transmission. My cruise control isn't working and I'd like to fix that. The switch on indicator works AND when you push the button to engage the cruise the green light comes on but it doesn't even attempt to hold speed. I briefly looked over the cruise system and noticed the vac line from the box thing? by the strut tower to the …other box thing(forgive me idk what they are actually called) by the back side of the im was not attached. So I thought ha there's the problem. I had to cut the end off the hose as it was hard as a rock and I reattached it but that didn't fix it. I'm going to try to replace it with a new hose but any other suggestions? One problem with thy and another problem also is the throttle cable is to loose IMO. I did tighten it up and throttle response was ALOT better AND when I put it to the floor it would actually drop a gear and take off as before I tightened it it would not. I had to loosen it back up because after a couple days of driving it the cable was holding the idle at 1400ish. Could there be something wrong with the cable system? I'm going to eventually do the turbo swap omit and had a question about that. I'm going to install a 190 in it and was wondering if I could just go ahead and install a stock turbo fpr and run that until I switch over to the ecu and 450's or bigger and wire in the injector pack. Not running the turbo until the ecu etc is on. Also a question about the injectors, since I may go head and get some 660's if I buy the "correct" style (high impedance I think) for my n/t then would I not have to wire in the injector pack or would that mess with the turbo ecu? I searched for the answers I "think" will fix most of those problems but I'm just wanting to make sure. Thanks and sorry for the short story, Keith.
 
My eyes hurt, but I think that you are basically asking about using an OEM FPR with a 190lph pump. Typically, an AFPR is only needed after using a 255lph pump, yet there is no harm in using an AFPR with a 190lph pump.
 
Hey all. I picked up a '91 N/A with an automatic transmission a couple weeks ago. I'm currently trying to get all the minor things fixed and I have some questions about them.

The coolant boils but the car doesn't show it's over heating. I haven't hooked up my logger to it yet but will soon. That's not that big a deal I hope. I was going to try radiator cap and t-stat first. I'll flush the system when I pull the motor to rebuild the transmission.

My cruise control isn't working and I'd like to fix that. The switch on indicator works AND when you push the button to engage the cruise the green light comes on but it doesn't even attempt to hold speed. I briefly looked over the cruise system and noticed the vaccuum line from the box thing by the strut tower to the other box thing(forgive me I don't know what they are actually called) by the back side of the intake manifold was not attached. So I thought "ha there's the problem". I had to cut the end off the hose as it was hard as a rock and I reattached it but that didn't fix it. I'm going to try to replace it with a new hose but any other suggestions?

Another problem also is the throttle cable is to loose in my opinion. I did tighten it up and throttle response was ALOT better. When I put it to the floor it would actually drop a gear and take off as before I tightened it, it would not. I had to loosen it back up because after a couple days of driving it the cable was holding the idle at 1400ish. Could there be something wrong with the cable system?

I'm going to eventually do the turbo swap omit and had a question about that. I'm going to install a 190 in it and was wondering if I could just go ahead and install a stock turbo fpr and run that until I switch over to the ecu and 450's or bigger and wire in the injector pack. Not running the turbo until the ecu etc is on.

Also a question about the injectors, since I may go head and get some 660's if I buy the "correct" style (high impedance I think) for my n/t then would I not have to wire in the injector pack or would that mess with the turbo ecu? I searched for the answers I "think" will fix most of those problems but I'm just wanting to make sure. Thanks and sorry for the LONG story, Keith.

Retyped for easier reading.

1) Cooling System: Radiator cap and thermostat replacement can never hurt. Also I would get the flush done sooner rather than later if you are driving the car now.

2) Cruise Control: Sorry, removed mine for a straight throttle cable, wanted bettercontrol and response. And to remove some unwanted weight. As for looseness and idle control, you need to slide the bracket bolted on the back of the intake manifold so that the cable becomes snug, without keeping the throttle open.

3) Turbo Swap: Been there, done that. That was a 3 day swap project that turned into a 3 month swap project because it wouldn't start for some reason. turned out to be just a bad CAS but it did cause some headache. DO NOT (was that clear enough?) start changing things out now, it will be more of a problem later. Keep the car stock if you are serious about turbo swapping it, and do everything at once.
 
Thanks for the responses but the I know about the 255 and AFPR. I was asking about using the stock turbo FPR with a 190 now before I do the swap. However I think I will wait to do it all at once. I still need to get my cruise fixed. I did slide the throttle cable bracket back as stated. Any other suggestions?
 
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