The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

New Big16G does not solve old problem...still have blue smoke!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Smoothie97

20+ Year Contributor
175
1
Mar 30, 2003
Mods before problem: T-25 with 87,000 miles, Apexi N1, Apexi DP, Injen intake.

So one day the problem occurs: massive blue, oily smoke emitting from tale pipe when the car has beened warmed up by driving for 5 min or more. Smoke is not noticeable while cruising (probably because the wind is disappating it). Smoke is very noticeable at idle. Pushing the throttle at idle produces a lot of blue smoke! I thought it was the T-25 going bye-bye. So I thought that this would be a good time to get a Big16G.

So I put in the following in all at once: ported FP Big16G w/34 mm flapper, ported Evo III O2 housing, new OEM O2 sensor, Greddy Upper IC pipe, Greddy Type S vented to Injen Intake, Greddy EGT, Boost w/peak hold, Greddy Profec B (low boost at 12 psi...high boost at 15 psi) Magnecore 8.5 mm wires, NGK BPR6EKN, re-wired Walbro 255 HP, and of course Apexi N1 and downpipe.

I'm running on pump 93 octane. Just had Mobil 1 synthetic added about 200 miles ago. My boost is fine. Car feels strong and I have no creep. EGT is around 800 C. It's just when I park, I get tons of oily smoke.

Now I hear that I may have a bad piston. If that's the case, wouldn't I be smoking within like one min upon starting a cold car? I only seem to smoke after driving for longer than 5 min and then parking. HELP!
 
I think you might need new valve seals (in the head). If you pull the exhaust manifold off, you might even be able to see oil running down the exhaust valves....
 
I know when I replaced my turbo it didn't solve my smoking problem right away. However, after driving it for probably just short of a month, the smoking went away and never came back, and I never did anything else. I know of one other person whose car was the same way. Weird, but I would just try giving it some time, as long as your oil pressure and level stays in the safe range.
 
Hmmm..thats very interesting the problem just fixed by itself. But I think I have a more serious problem here. A brand spankin' new turbo should not be doing this. And remember, when I was on the T-25 it smoked about 2 days after I did my N1 and downpipe. I just don't see how adding the exhaust would cause this problem if at all.

Theory: Using the 16G install kit from FP, which was a piece of junk, this turbo was VERY difficult to install, I put the Evo O2 housing on. The downpipe now bolts to the Evo housing but much higher up. Thus my entire downpipe seemed to have raised from when I was on the stock turbo set up. I literally have about a 1 mm clearance from the super hot downpipe to the bottom of my oil pan. I wonder if this has anything to do with my car being even more smokey than ever. Could the downpipe be so close to the oil pan that its burning up my oil and the fumes are rising up into my chamber?

Perhaps I'll take off my entire exhaust and run the car and see if it smokes.
 
I read somewhere this:

"If you smoke right when you start the car while its cold, then you got bad valve seals. If you smoke after the car is hot, then it's bad piston rings."

Is this statement correct?

I'll do a compression and leakdown test hopefully soon. The car's at my friend's shop.
 
I don't know if you have already fixed this problem. But, When my stock 14b blew, about 3 quarts of oil was pumped out of my engine into my exhaust where it built up. Then when I got my next 14b it smoked only after the exhaust was warm enough for the oil to burn and smoke. It did this for about 300 miles and then all of the was burned and the smoking problem went away. If your t-25 was as bad as my 14b was then this is your problem. But I would still do a Compression test.
5661Turbo-med.JPG



Hope this helps.

~Kletke~
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto STM Tuned

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 1g B1H 4 bolt differential
    Hey guys, up for sale is my 4 bolt diff, price is $250 shipped.You must be registered to see...
    • 1cleangsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 JDM 4G63 Mitsubishi lettered valvecover
    JDM 4G63 valvecover. Mitsubishi lettered along with Diamond symbol. No broken holes or...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo (NE Oklahoma area)
    Car that I bought to drive for fun but need the money for college
    • InfiniteRevs
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Holset HX Super 40
    Holset super 40 specs t3 .82ar with 3” vband exit, Billet compressor wheel 60mm inducer 86mm...
    • GST2012GSX
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 1g 7 bolt oil pan N/A
    I need a 7 bolt oil pan for a 1992 eclipse with delivery to Europe
    • Xtalex
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top