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2G P0135 need some help...

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zipfast1997

Proven Member
37
5
Mar 20, 2015
worcester, Massachusetts
My wife and I have a 1997 eclipse, I bought it 3 years ago and well the worst thing I really had wrong up until recently was an oil leak around the front cover. That has been long fixed by replacing the gasket. Up until 3 months ago it was running great until one day it started a hesitation problem, every once in a while the rpms would suddenly drop and it would skip at idle, the only way to drive it was (and still is) to high idle it@2000rpms after first start and wait til it clears up (flooding?) or WOT to boost till it clears, and regained back power.

We decided to change out parts by looking online (dsmtuner threads) to see what could possibly be the problem culprit. We've changed the following parts; fuel pump, New trick flow fuel filter, FPR (stock as it ran great when I first put it together and it had a stock for to begin with), New Bosch plug wires and high heat plugs, throttle body (couldn't adjust idle with old one as it was worn out anyway), manual boost controller, MAF.

So far I've also tested some sensors as well. TPS it's good and IAC on the throttle body. Now it idles ok after first start (no WOT needed as of now but still skips till warm but, idles normally all day) but when boosted it will only go to 4 psi and hesitates beyond that.

I've tried to raise the boost pressure but when I do it hesitates worse. I also must say that it has a 1g engine and I have no EPROM upgrades on it for the 2g ECU but it has always ran great till now.

I did disable the + constant to the ECU so every time you turned the car off it would always reset so I wouldn't get the misfire code every 3 days and have to unplug the battery so often.

Well, I did reconnect it for a bit to find any other codes besides the ones I knew would show up and got one for the P0135 O2 heater wire bank 1 sensor 1. Can this cause boost problems?

If anyone knows please help. I've also done boost leak tests and there isn't any from what Jude seen so far but keep checking. I'm also thinking knock sensor, Maybe??

Don't wanna give up on this car...to good to us...thanks to anyone who can help...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not 100% but p0135 as you know is high res or open/shorted heater element, I wouldn't thing that would effect the boost but possibly causing false signals to ecm inturn making it run rich, causing it to flood out? I'm kind of reaching her but there is a lot of smart ppl here that will have a better answer.
 
Ya...thats what im hoping on and yes youre right...for the upstream o2 sensor...and from what ive seen so far there are a lot of good people on here and helpful too...I fouldnt have put the car together without reading some of the forum disscussions on here 3 years ago...even though I wasnt a member a lot of diagrams and info helped me a lot and it has been the most reliable car I have ever driven and ill be darned if ill give up now...just need a little shove to the right direction is all...im usually pretty good at stuff like this but this it the first turbo charged car ive ever really had my hands so much on...and I love these cars a lot...
 
And I may have some insight on them for other people as well for what ive learned about this one on my own so far...
 
Disconnect your downpipe before the catalytic converter and see if you can boost past 4psi. If you can, u have a clogged cat. If no change, then back to the drawing board.
 
Thats a good thought as well...might just be worth a try...thanx...any other suggestions anyone can give will be very helpful...:)
 
Ok...just checked the ignition coil packs to see if they might be weak...I dont have an ohms meter with me but the spark seems to be very strong...I did this when the car started to idle under 500 rpms...and it smelled like extremely rich fuel till I manually idled it @ 2000 rpms till it straightened out...seems like its definately flooding out at idle...but at boost im still baffled...any other ideas?? Anyone??
 
You said you have a 1g motor, did you do the supported mods that are required when swapping a 1g into a 2g? Like rewiring for the cam sensor etc. Also a few things that come to mind to check are your maf sensor I have had mine get dirty and caused me all sorts of problems. I'm also wondering if your wastegate might be faulty causing your car not to see more than 4 psi.
 
I did some research about the wiring and mods needed to get the engine to run 3 years ago when i put it together...thats how I found this site and was very helpful to get it running...the only thing I did was to find a way to temporarily find a way to reset the ecu by the key (which was to disable the power) to stop the misfire code from appearing so it wouldnt misfire during run time and up until 3 months ago it has been running great...I checked for codes and the only other one I got was for the upstream o2...the maf seems to be working and no code for it plus we have cleaned it with cleaner and no change...any other suggestions or should I try changing the maf altogether??? I was going to see about checking the wastegate as well...just havent yet...
 
Heres a question for anyone who may know...ive been leaning a lot towards the possibility of the maf being bad as ive heard a lot about them being a big problem...is it possible for the maf to go bad yet not throw a code?? If so ive never really seen it happen but anything is possible...
 
I would hate for you to start replacing parts for no reason, but maybe start with the o2 sensor if that's where your code is coming from... from my searching I belive the cas can cause problems and not throw a code. There are plenty of how to's on this site. Maybe look into testing the o2 and various sensors before replacing them. The plus is the info is available.
 
Ok...thanks...well...I know where I can get an o2 sensor to replace the bad one to test it first...I replaced it in a talon before the car was engulfed in a fire 3 days later and I removed the drivetrain as it was all untouched...if no change ill post it soon...
 
Ok...update...had the car on the interstate this morning...first boost...10 psi and started to cut out like it was running lean...second boost...8 psi and started to cut out...third boost...6 psi and it cut out...im wondering if the throttle body could be possible cause...it came off of a 93 7bolt that was fully built...bigger turbo and intake and if theres anything I need to adjust like the idle air set screw and how to adjust it?
 
Thank you very much...im definately going to try it...seems like it might be the problem and ill post it on here to let everyone know if it works...I hope it does...
 
Waste gate leaking or open slightly. Try moving the waste gate actuator arm and see if you can get it to move, it is pretty tight so you might need a big pair of pliers or channel locks just to test that it operates correctly and doesn't hang part way open. Not sure but trying to help.
 
I actually did do that and it seems to be working...used a pair of plier to do so...yes...very tight...but it seems like the car is running very lean during boost and makes it hitch bad and cut out...it seems to be closing the wastegate ok...gonna try the biss and the o2 and go from there...next is to check the wastegate itself out...thank you for the thought...
 
Ok...update...checked all piping for rips and tears or leaks and there is none...changed throttlebody out to original and changed o ring for BISS..checked for cat and there isnt one and changed upstream o2 sensor...got it to idle good and boost but any higher than 8 psi and it starts to buck and sputter and cut out and the boost guage bounces like crazy...up for any other possibilities anyone might have...boost wont stay steady and cant get WOT while crusing...cuts out irratically if I do...
 
Well...im guessing theres something wrong internally with the turbo ont the eclipse...its the only thing I havent checked out yet...need to know where I should possibly start...I know theres some shaft play in it but it seems to spin ok...just not sure...took the laser out for its first spin saturday...boosted it at WOT and it too choked out...but boost slowly it does ok...I also noticed that its burning oil...when its at WOT it leaves a huge oil cloud and thats when it chokes out...otherwise it goes great...think #4 cylinder has bad valve seals...also found 2 studs broke on that cylinders exaust with oil deposits around it...going through oil every time I boost it...its all gudd...its worth putting the money into...im happy and cant always ask for perfection everywhere...LOL
 
Ok...update...since my last post on here ive been mind boggled about what was going on wit the 1997 eclipse when it wouldnt boost...fact is...it was boosting but the pressure was falling every time it did boost...I replaced a bunch of parts that were either prone to fail or did fail...I do appreciate all of the suggestions that were brought to my attention by many of you and thanks...however...I did get curious about a certain noise that I was hearing comming from the turbo and decided to check it out as a last thought...although my turbo still spins...(and ive been researching it this whole time) I came down to one conclusion...my turbo and wastegate actuator are no good...the rattle I heard was the turbo (intake side not hot side) blades grinding against the housing and when I looked inside all of the blades are bent or broke...and the wastegate actuator is no longer working as I have the boost controler turned completely down and it still goes higher than it should...so I did find a turbo for a really good price and it is new(2500 miles are actually on it)...no shaft play and new wastegate and the person I bought it from told me that im definately in the right place and will cure my problem...do I believe it?? Well...its the last thing to go after since everything else is either new or has been checked out and ok...so I cant wait...ill keep everyone posted on how it turns out but I believe this is definately my problem...
 
When it blows oil out the turbo while boosting the seal in the turbo is bad and needs a rebuild but you already know this now :D
 
That is true...but were talking MAJOR SHAFT PLAY in the turbo so id say its either close to or already has gotten to that point...its not like I dont end up seeing oil in the turbo every time I pull the air intake off...LOL :)...but the turbo rattles like crazy when it spools at ldie and its bad...it almost sounds like a machine gun firing underneath the hood...LOL...
 
Ok..update...i installed the new turbo on the 1997 eclipse...modified and welded the exaust to fit the turbo and did a bunch of other things to get the turbo to work...we took it out for a test drive and it boosted and held pressure twice @ 11psi...i had the boost source on the p vacuum nipple at this point...then it started doing what it was doing before..overboosting and cutting out...like the new boost actuator had gone bad but i knew that wasnt the problem...so i changed the boost source believing that it wasnt enough (as ive also read that you want your boost source as close to the compressor as possible) and installed a nipple into the pipping near it...also in this time i discovered that the vacuum line to my boost controler that i had on top of the radiator hose( very bad idea on my part) ad been melting on top of it and collapsed due to high heat...well..i relocated the lines and shes ready for another go at it...wish me luck everyone...i think i may have finally fixed my problem...let you know soon...
 
Ok...thought to anyone that may be able to help...i got to thinking about my situo about the 1997 eclipse we have and something came to me to ask a question...can a blown head gasket cause a boost hesitation issue...when you first start the car its skips for a minute but goes away...we were able to get it to boost once after we replaced the turbo but that was it...the radiator hoses get hard after about 5 minutes after driving the car yet the ones in the laser dont and my wife drove the car up the road not too long ago and the pressure in the coolant system got so bad she said the top radiator hose popped off and had to put it back on...and the clamp was in place around the hose before this happened...so im wondering if a blown head gasket will cause the car to boost improperly...the engine came out of a car that had a fire under the hood...ever since the engine was installed the hoses have gotten pressure build up but has always ran fine yet last winter the engine overheated 3 times and the last 2 times were pretty bad but was still running good but didnt discover a boost issue till after cause we were only driving the car locally till we tried to drive it on the interstate one night and found out it wasnt staying at boost pressure but was overboosting and acting like the fuel was being cut off from the engine...any ideas would be great cause i refuse to give up on such a nice and rare car...thanks
 
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