The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Need some car audio help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dr1ftx3

15+ Year Contributor
398
3
Jul 4, 2005
Hoffman Estates, Illinois
Hey guys I just recently picked up my 95 and it appears to have been previously set up for a sound system, there are 4 wires laying in the trunk and I have my amp and sub from my previous car in my garage so I was wondering if it would be compatible. Bear with me because I have virtually no car audio knowledge, here are the pics of the wires in the trunk, and my amp and sub. Can someone let me know if this will be compatible, and if not what I will need to make it work? Thank you in advance.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
if everything is hooked up correctly in the car it should go as follows
BIG RED WIRE: +12 volt constant hooked to the battery and fused<<make sure its fused
BIG BLACK WIRE: chassis ground should go to the - symbol on the amp and other side grounded to the chhassis of the car! strut tower my recomendation
LITTLE BLACK WIRE: remote wire should have +12 when the key is turned on and nothing when its turned off should run from the back of you radio on the rem wire also gets hooked to amp in the slot labeled rem.
RCA WIRES: should run from the sub out on the radio to a input on the amp try to ,ake sure the power wire and the rca run down different sides of the car or you may get interferance through the speakers.

then hhoking up the subs is a different story you need to know if you have single voice coil or dual voice coils svc or dvc also how many ohm stable the amp is and if its bridgeable also the rms on the amp and rms on the subs. but if you really dont care how it sounds black on the speacker box to - on the amp and red on the speaker box to + on the amp for each channel on the side labeled speakers
 
A better question is: What is the fusing on the side of the amp?

Anymore, I see more and more amps coming in that say 1000W and have 30A of fusing on them (just an example). Using Ohm's Law (P/I=E in this example) tells you that the claim of 1000W at 30A max current will require you to have a roughly 30V supply.

You can also determine what wire guages to run to your amp, and judging by referencing the size of the power wire to the RCA's you've got 8 AWG in your car now, if the fusing on the amp is MUCH more than 40A (and with a true 600W amp it should be about 40A), I would be thinking about getting a 4 AWG upgrade kit...

*edit*

It appears in the picture that you've got two 25A fuses on the amp, thus 50A of fusing, you should be alright with the 8 AWG wire, but don't over do it on the gains and the pounding techno and rap... I personally would upgrade to at least a 4 AWG (It's what I'm running my Alpine 500W mono block amp with)
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top