Need Help With Vaccum Lines

[combatmedic]

So I don't have any of the vacuum lines connected and I have been searching but am still confused. Where does the line coming off the BOV go? Can I just cap all the lines coming off the throttle body off?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Here is a diagram. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

Basically you just need to cap off the TB ports. Run the BOV, and FPR to a vacuum source on the intake manifold. Pretty simple.

 

[combatmedic]

I may sound like an idiot but I can't read those diagrams ha. Where does the bov line run to on the intake manifold? Also where is the fpr and where does that line go to.

 

[Fabian]

It's really simple buddy. You're thinking about it too much when you're looking at the diagrams. Take the line running to your BOV and tap it to the highest intake manifold port, then your FPR should be left alone or tapped into the smaller nipple on the right hand side of your intake manifold.

run your lines just like in this diagram

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all the little red dots mean that you cap off those locations...

 

[combatmedic]

Thanks man, so the bov and wga both go to that nipple that is kinda towards the inside bottom of the intake mani? And the line that comes off the back of the head goes to the intake mani also right?

 

[Clutch GSX]

For the 1G head and intake it is like this. Pretty sure its similar for the 2G. The pvc valve pipe (back left of valve cover) goes to the nipple on the runners (section closest to the head) while the BOV and Wastegate go to the one coming from the plenum (big round section of the intake where the throttle body connects to)

There is also a line going from the intake pipe to the left side of the head for the pcv unless you put a filter there.

 

[crash89]

I know the text says to keep the evap, egr, and fp regulator solenoids plugged in to keep from throwing codes but what about if we plan on running DSMlink? If I remember right a friend of mine told me you could clear codes with link? Just double checking because I plan to run DSMlink in my GSX, and I want to remove as much vacuum line/evap sh*t as possible.

 

[KKneipper]

It's really simple buddy. You're thinking about it too much when you're looking at the diagrams. Take the line running to your BOV and tap it to the highest intake manifold port, then your FPR should be left alone or tapped into the smaller nipple on the right hand side of your intake manifold.

run your lines just like in this diagram

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

all the little red dots mean that you cap off those locations...

I don't know about capping off the line from the compressor housing. I ran my MBC from the turbo, to the wastegate actuator. The line from the intake mani going to the BOV should be untapped, meaning, don't put a t-fitting to branch it off to the MBC.

 

[TSITurbo95]

I know the text says to keep the evap, egr, and fp regulator solenoids plugged in to keep from throwing codes but what about if we plan on running DSMlink? If I remember right a friend of mine told me you could clear codes with link? Just double checking because I plan to run DSMlink in my GSX, and I want to remove as much vacuum line/evap sh*t as possible.

Yes, you can do away with them once you get link. Sometimes they throw codes, other times they do not, but link can take care of it for ya. I am currently running link and disabled those codes. Works like a charm

 

[KKneipper]

If your car throws a CEL, then it means that something isn't hooked up right. I wouldn't recommend using DSMLink to clear them. My car is hooked up with an AM BOV, and a MBC. No codes.

 

[crash89]

My car is hooked up with an AM BOV, and a MBC. No codes./QUOTE]

Yea, but those dont really have anything to do with eliminated vacuum line/solenoids. I was leaning towards being able to just eliminate the solenoids and wires completely so theyre not just chillin on my firewall and not have to worry about a CEL in my eye.. Also with the DSMlink feature where you can have your CEL flash when you get certain counts of knock I dont want to worry about throwing vacuum codes..

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

I don't know about capping off the line from the compressor housing. I ran my MBC from the turbo, to the wastegate actuator. The line from the intake mani going to the BOV should be untapped, meaning, don't put a t-fitting to branch it off to the MBC.

I agree, Dont tee off of the BOV line. Use the nipple off the compressor/J pipe for the MBC And keep it as short as possible. Tee off of the regulator line for the boost gauge.

 

[KKneipper]

you're also going to want to leave those lines on the throttle body plugged in. You need your FPR and EGR hooked up in order for your car to run right. I'm not sure about the EVAP, but you might as well leave it hooked up too.

 

[combatmedic]

so how do I run the lines from my throttle body to the FPR?? I have the egr blocked off and the evap taken out

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

so how do I run the lines from my throttle body to the FPR?? I have the egr blocked off and the evap taken out

You don't. You run the vacuum port on the driver's side of the intake manifold to the FPR. Look at the diagram that was posted from the Taboo Speed shop.

You are going to get conflicting advice until you decide if you are going to keep your evap/egr system or not. Some people say keep it, others say toss it. Its up to you. Once you decide then let us know because it is going to effect how you run your vacuum lines.

 

[werx]

I hate to piggyback on this thread but I was trying to figure out where does the turbocharger waste gate solenoid vacuum line goes on my 96 AWD Talon? Or do I really need it for the car to run right and not throw any codes?

 

[combatmedic]

I am not keeping my egr and evap system

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I am not keeping my egr and evap system

Then follow the diagram that fabian posted with the exception of not T-ing into the BOV line.

You said you had trouble following the diagram so I will try to help explain it.

1. Cap off all the line on your throttle body (TB) Either cap them off or loop them back into each other.
2. Run a 6 mm line from your Blow Off Valve (BOV) to the nipple on the passenger's side of the intake manifold.
3. Run a 4 mm line from the bottom of your Manual Boost Controller (MBC) to the nipple on your J-pipe.
4. Run a 4 mm line from the side of your MBC to the nipple on your wastegate.
5. Run a 4 mm line from your Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) to the nipple on the driver's side of your intake manifold.

That is it. On the 2gs I believe you have to keep your solenoids plugged into the harness to keep from throwing a Check Engine Light (CEL) but there should be no vacuum lines going to any of them.

Hope this helps!

 

[combatmedic]

thanks, on another note would not having my rear motor mount (or tranny mount) bolted in cause a weird noise when I accel

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

thanks, on another note would not having my rear motor mount (or tranny mount) bolted in cause a weird noise when I accel

Umm yes it could. Are saying you don't have the rear mount or the transmission mount in? I hope not. The mounts obviously hold the engine to the chassis. if you are missing a mount then then engine can shift when you accelerate and that could make weird noises. I've never driven around without a mount to know for sure though, .

 

[combatmedic]

Yes I do not have the bolt in the rear mount, I am just driving around post with it and I do not beat on it but does anyone know what size bolt is supposed to be in there because I lost mine??