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Need help finding IAT wireing diagram on 03 eclipse GTS

dblagbro

Probationary Member
5
0
Jul 20, 2003
New_JerseyUS
Okay this may answer all Mitsubishi motors IAT location questions as my 2000 montero sport and 2003 eclipse GTS have the same intake mass air / iat sensors.:dsm:

Using a 2.2K resistor I am supposed to be able to trick the ECU into thinking the car is getting more air than it is by showing a false low temp reading, thus adding more fuel and producing more power. Now I need to know which of the 6 or 7 wires going into the combination mass air sensor and IAT sensor plug are used for the IAT.

I ran a continuity test and found what I thought to be the IAT sensors in pins 2 and 3 but when connected to the resistor the check engine light comes on and the car burns 2-3 times as much gas (real MPG less than 10 from over 24 origionally) and idles unevenly (goes from 750 to 1400 about 2 times a second). I had read that it would affect mileage but only by a point or 2, not 8 gallons for 65 miles!!!

After some pondering :rolleyes: I thought that perhaps these may be normal side effects of this afro-engineering method of increasing HP... anyone know?

Also, if anyone knows any good referneces for tuning a 2003 Eclipse GTS let me know, I need the inspiration.

Tks,
-d
 

dblagbro

Probationary Member
5
0
Jul 20, 2003
New_JerseyUS
Originally posted by verserv
Well you proved to yourself that its a waste of time

Sorry for not being specific enough, was looking for help not useless comments.

Thus for any others looking for this answer too, the answer is PINs 2 and 3 (brown and red with blue stripe) are the IAT wires, I had a loose connection causing the problem.

NOTE: This will work but expect to get about 9 - 12 MPG highway, less than 8 stop and go from what I have found.
 

LandoAWD

Retired
Supporting VIP
10,746
38
Jun 13, 2002
Hillsborough, North_Carolina
Maybe try the 3g boards :shrug:

Really doesn't belong in here, or anywhere.
 

thehyena

Banned Member
4,187
1
Mar 3, 2003
--_Other_Parts_of_the_World
don't do that, the resistor will fvck up your engine eventually
 

LandoAWD

Retired
Supporting VIP
10,746
38
Jun 13, 2002
Hillsborough, North_Carolina
Hows that "electric turbo" at 2psi working for ya?
 

LandoAWD

Retired
Supporting VIP
10,746
38
Jun 13, 2002
Hillsborough, North_Carolina
If you have one in YOUR mod list....you. If not...someone else.
 

dblagbro

Probationary Member
5
0
Jul 20, 2003
New_JerseyUS
Originally posted by LandoAWD
Hows that "electric turbo" at 2psi working for ya?

I have not yet dyno'd anything but for 75.00 on a electric blower fan I have managed to seal all the leaks on stock intake and keep about 2 PSI up to 6000 RPM (redlines at 6500 and I don't exceed 6000 often). I notice the difference when the blower is activated (triggered by fully depressing the throttle, manual switch, or open butterfly/choke equivalent on throttle body), low cost, reliable with some time on installation spent on neatness and secure connections, no loss of flow/throughput when blower is off, and only takes .5 amps so it should not hurt. Using a blower also creates turblence which mixes fuel better, if you have seen the "tornado" sold as an aftermarket upgrade for just about every car out there, this is accomplishing the same benefit (moving air mixes better than static air). Of course using the K&N / cold air source may be creating some of the improvement too.

Up to about 2500 RPM I get 2.5 PSI. No intercooler needed as there is not much compression, the air is not noticably warmed after the blower.

I am going with a real ECU chip, this IAT mod works on some cars but sucks on MPG, I was hoping to wire it bridged to the IAT thermosistor with a 2.2K resistor to trick the stock ECU into thinking it was still sucking cold air yet still factor the air temp in somewhat by not eliminating the IAT just bridging on to it but it did not work. Guess the .37 cent mod is not as good as the 290.00 mod... who would have guessed!! kidding.

Anyone have any other ideas that I may want to try to implement to keep me busy?
 

LandoAWD

Retired
Supporting VIP
10,746
38
Jun 13, 2002
Hillsborough, North_Carolina
Originally posted by dblagbro


Of course using the K&N / cold air source may be creating some of the improvement too.


Now we're making sense.:thumb:
 

dblagbro

Probationary Member
5
0
Jul 20, 2003
New_JerseyUS
Originally posted by LandoAWD
Hows that "electric turbo" at 2psi working for ya?

I have not yet dyno'd anything but for 75.00 on a electric blower fan I have managed to seal all the leaks on stock intake and keep about 2 PSI up to 6000 RPM (redlines at 6500 and I don't exceed 6000 often). I notice the difference when the blower is activated (triggered by fully depressing the throttle, manual switch, or open butterfly/choke equivalent on throttle body), low cost, reliable with some time on installation spent on neatness and secure connections, no loss of flow/throughput when blower is off, and only takes .5 amps so it should not hurt. Using a blower also creates turblence which mixes fuel better, if you have seen the "tornado" sold as an aftermarket upgrade for just about every car out there, this is accomplishing the same benefit (moving air mixes better than static air). Of course using the K&N / cold air source may be creating some of the improvement too.

Up to about 2500 RPM I get 2.5 PSI. No intercooler needed as there is not much compression, the air is not noticably warmed after the blower.

I am going with a real ECU chip, this IAT mod works on some cars but sucks on MPG, I was hoping to wire it bridged to the IAT thermosistor with a 2.2K resistor to trick the stock ECU into thinking it was still sucking cold air yet still factor the air temp in somewhat by not eliminating the IAT just bridging on to it but it did not work. Guess the .37 cent mod is not as good as the 290.00 mod... who would have guessed!! kidding.

Anyone have any other ideas that I may want to try to implement to keep me busy?
 
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