ECMlink Need help, 12knock retard, logs inside

[NeOzz1]

2g/6bolt/aem wideband/sbr front mount/60-1/dsmlink/1000cc inj/255 walbro

Here is two logs, both 3k rpm to red line in 3rd. Second one is with -2 degrees timing trying to get the car to not retard the timing do to knock.

So do you think the car is really knocking or just thinks it is?


First one, global and dead time set, basically nothing else, about 18 psi

Second one, exact same with -2 degrees @ 3500 + rpms


lmk if you need more things logged or whatever.

 

[bling5tatus]

What was the AFR/boost pressure/rpm/timing and intake air temp when the knocking happened?

Those dsmlink logs are completely worthless to people that have no dsmlink that want to help you by the way.

 

[NeOzz1]

What was the AFR/boost pressure/rpm/timing and intake air temp when the knocking happened?

Those dsmlink logs are completely worthless to people that have no dsmlink that want to help you by the way.

It happened as soon as throttle hits 100%,

3453rpm/11.0afr/.3 boost/12deg knock rtard/.1 deg timing/131f intake temp

6200rpm/10.3afr/17.7 boost/9.5 deg knock rtard/1.5 deg timing/117f intake temp


I have probably stock grade spark plugs with like .040 gap, someone told me this could be the cause, any truth to this.


Sorry just bought the car and trying to get it going.

 

[TurboAnything]

Well i know with all the 2g cars i have tuned that you always get a little knock. So i always tune for the most ignition advance.

 

[bling5tatus]

.04 plug gap is too much, you need to be closer to .028... that's not the cause for the knock, but it will improve the ignition.

 

[twdorris]

Those dsmlink logs are completely worthless to people that have no dsmlink that want to help you by the way.

If someone actually wanted to help, they would just grab the ECMLink application off our website and view the logs.... There's so much more information in a datalog than someone could possibly type up it's not even funny. It would be IMPOSSIBLE to accurately type up a description of every single quirk and observation one could make from looking at a log. It's FAR, FAR better to just post a log showing the symptom of a problem. From his logs, I can see all his ECU settings as well as all the data he has logged much more easily than he can type it all out and much faster than me going back and forth with him asking for more data (that was actually in his datalog to begin with).

As for the original question, that knock is insane. I can't imagine it's real, but to be sure, here's what I usually do. Drop the timing ALOT on the timing sliders. I mean like -16° from 3500RPM up and then go repeat the test. If you see knock retard change (it should be near zero at that point), then at least you know for sure it's real detonation and you can track it down as such. In that case, I would suspect base timing is off a LOT.

If it doesn't change, then you can guess it's mechanical noise of some sort ticking off the knock sensor. In that case, I might check that the knock sensor is tight in the block. I've seen one so loose it was just rattling around in the hole. That caused knock retard to shoot through the roof any time any amount of throttle was given.

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[twdorris]

2g/6bolt/aem wideband/sbr front mount/60-1/dsmlink/1000cc inj/255 walbro

Your airflow sliders are configured for a hacked 2G MAF sensor (lower and both side honeycombs removed). Is that what you're actually running?

Thomas Dorris

 

[NeOzz1]

Your airflow sliders are configured for a hacked 2G MAF sensor (lower and both side honeycombs removed). Is that what you're actually running?

Thomas Dorris

All of the combs are removed.


(I know the center is suppose to stay in but was done by previous owner.)

 

[twdorris]

(I know the center is suppose to stay in but was done by previous owner.)

Not a big deal either way.

Thomas Dorris

 

[99gst_racer]

Those dsmlink logs are completely worthless to people that have no dsmlink that want to help you by the way.

I'm glad you've narrowed down your problem.


Oh, and by the way, please do not solicit other members via PM, enticing them to sell their DSMlink package and buy your Jackal kit. It's obvious that it's not just us staff members that are growing tired of it. If you're going to promote a product, then you need to learn to do it in a professional manner and you also need to contact Ludachris about becoming a site supporting vendor just like everyone else.

 

[NeOzz1]

How do I check to see if base timing is set correct?(The timing marks lining up?) Does not have to do with having a 6bolt in a 2g does it? Sorry not sure whether you mean mechanically set correct like the marks on the gears or set in dsmlink.

 

[twdorris]

How do I check to see if base timing is set correct?

With a timing light. Certainly having the marks all lined up is a good start, but you'll need to confirm cam angle sensor position next. And the best way to do that with is a timing light.

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[NeOzz1]

With a timing light. Certainly having the marks all lined up is a good start, but you'll need to confirm cam angle sensor position next. And the best way to do that with is a timing light.

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.

I think the previous owner was running with knock sensor disabled possibly, here is a pic of it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[NeOzz1]

You may have seen my other post, had a knock sensor that was all melted and that has been replaced, I thought it fixed the issue but I guess not. Mods are in my garage, logs below.



This is a log with just a base tune, fuel/timing sliders have not been touched at all.


This is one where I did what Thomas said and gave timing 2500+ -16 deg to see if it still knock retarded.


It does not seem to knock till throttle goes 100%, am I suppose to tune the fuel slider at every RPM so it is not lean before boost kicks in? Once the boost builds the AFR drops to around 11 or less but I let off before that even happens because the knock retard is so bad before hand.

Above logs are from yesterday.


Two more logs today, both base tune no slide changes at all but the knock is lower?


2nd gear pull


3rd gear pull


FYI You can download dsmlink for free to view the logs if you would like from there website.

 

[LandoAWD]

Dude, when the knock CEL comes on, at least consider getting off the throttle.

Moved to the logs forum.

 

[NeOzz1]

Dude, when the knock CEL comes on, at least consider getting off the throttle.

Moved to the logs forum.

People that don't want to look over a log may be able to help also, probably would have been better off in the normal section.

 

[LandoAWD]

People that don't want to look over a log may be able to help also, probably would have been better off in the normal section.

So, "check out these logs" doesn't seem like a log type question?

 

[NeOzz1]

So, "check out these logs" doesn't seem like a log type question?

So, "my car gets 12deg knock retard" doesn't seem like a general type question?


Logs are just added in case people want to see them, thanks for all your help, feel free to not help anymore.

 

[LandoAWD]

I'll not debate proper placement of threads any further. This is where it goes.

 

[twdorris]

OK, here's something interesting to look at.

First, configure your AFRatioEst properties to match your injectors. The process is described toward the bottom of the ECMLink Initial Checks page.

Basically, you want to tell that display routine your fuel flow rate. If you enter 1000 cc/min and 345 deadtime into that display routine, you'll get an estimate of what the ECU is trying to do A/F ratio wise.

That's REALLY useful because you can then look for areas where the ECU is trying to do one thing but the wideband says the results are different. If you look at your two logs that didn't have much knock, you'll see that the ECU's target A/F ratio wasn't much different from what the wideband said actually happened as you rolled into the throttle.

But in the logs with crazy knock, the measured A/F ratio went REALLY lean compared to what the ECU was actually trying to do.

I can't tell you why that's happening, but that's probably what's causing the knock retard to start.

Try putting the timing sliders back to zero and then try raising the fuel sliders to something like +15% and see if the knock retard gets any better or worse as you roll into the throttle.

Thomas Dorris

 

[LandoAWD]

Told ya it would get noticed.