The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

N/T Clutch Selection

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

blueman803

15+ Year Contributor
216
2
Nov 3, 2003
chapin, South Carolina
My goals for the car are eventually 300 whp. I am using the N/T flywheel and transmission, so I need a N/T clutch that is capable of holding that power. This goal probably wont happen for at least a year. So what clutch would you recommend? I would prefer not to have a dramatic increase in pedal pressure as well. I was considering the southbend DXD, Spec stage 2 clutch, or a Centerforce dual friction.
 
I put a centerforce Dual Friction into my friends turbo swapped 91 NT (NT driveline) and it is really nice. Its grippy, easy to modulate, and CHEAP, under $250 from NOPI.

Later
Arnie
 
Mavisky on here recommended the NT ACT 2600 to me, and thats what im going with in my turbo conversion. Can be found HERE

Xtreme Pressure Plate w/ Street Disc Kit 95% 323 ft-lb MB3-XT00 $338.00
 
Damn they dont make an ACT for the 2g's N/T?

Guess i gotta go centerforce then...
 
Is the pedal pressure increase really bad with the n/t ACT 2600? I read that some people dont really care for the added pressure in city driving.
 
blueman803 said:
Is the pedal pressure increase really bad with the n/t ACT 2600? I read that some people dont really care for the added pressure in city driving.

mine's heavier than most cars i drive, but not much stiffer than my dad's full size truck.
 
I was looking at all the necessary modifications to make the ACT 2600 work reliably, welding the pedal, replacing the push rod, and other things. Is this necessary with a centerforce dual friction? It seems like the 2600 will hold every bit of the 300 hp, but will also put a lot of extra strain on the hydraulic systems. I also read that recently a lot of people have had reliability issues with that clutch in the turbo models. So I am thinking it may be best to refrain from using that clutch. Wrong conclusion? I haven't found a definitive answer for how much the Centerforce dual friction will hold, does anyone know?
 
I've never had any of those issues with mine. ACT was the company that carried dsm's deep into the 10's and faster back when noone else was giving us any support. They worked then, and mine's still working now. Every manufacturer is going to have some issues with their stuff, but i wouldn't get terribly worked up over it.
 
So you do not have to weld the pedal and replace the slave cylinder rod to use the ACT 2600?
 
No. Those are just reccomendations as to how you can make sure your clutch is actuating perfectly. I've been in awd cars with the 2600 and the pedal effort is much higher than that of our nt's. Hell my gf's old awd used to make my leg shake at long lights and that was just a random replacement clutch.
 
If you shim the clutch pivot ball you SHOULD be okay with a 2600. Like was said before, all the things you have to do with a 2600 are to compensate for a worn out clutch actuation system that most 100k+ mile cars have. I love my 2600 and for an AWD would never get anything else, but for a turboed NT I would get a centerforce due to cost and that the tires are still whats going to limit your traction, not the clutch like an AWD.

Later
Arnie
 
How much power can the centerforce hold? I'll be running a B16G on a rebuilt stock motor and I want a clutch that can handle the power. Hell I might upgrade later to a possible 20g.
 
When a clutch claims to hold a certain torque, does that mean from a dead stop it could transfer that much torque without slipping? Or does it mean even if you are rolling, if there is more torque than the rated capability that the clutch is going to slip?

And does anyone know the Centerforce dual friction capacity?
 
blueman803 said:
When a clutch claims to hold a certain torque, does that mean from a dead stop it could transfer that much torque without slipping? Or does it mean even if you are rolling, if there is more torque than the rated capability that the clutch is going to slip?

And does anyone know the Centerforce dual friction capacity?

That would most likely be a question for the manufacturer of the clutch. Each company may rate it differently.
 
is the centerforce model number DF325417.
does anyone know how it compars to the spec stage III
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top