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My Street S197 Mustang.

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This past weekend I changed out the stock valve springs for the PAC 1234-x springs. These Coyotes are known to float the valves with boost. The Boss 302 which "revved higher" from the factory has marginally better springs but this option is better. The darker spring is the OEM spring.

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Lots of TTY hardware in this engine so you either have to buy new OEM or replace with ARP equivalent if available. Below are new ARPs for the cam tower (aka cam caps as we know them, 40 in total on the left) and the bolts for the cam phasers (3 per cam=12.) Phaser bolts here would be equivalent to our cam gear bolts, but since this is VVT...they are 3 per cam. $200+ for both. Shit adds up fast. I already picked up a set of ARP head studs about a year ago. The stock head bolts can't be reused as well.

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Next will be to prep the block, clean the bores, deck and start installing the goodies. The bores check out fine so I will have the required clearance. I will have to file fit the piston rings to the gaps I want.. Goal for April is to have the engine completely assembled and possibly, dropped in. I was informed my transmission will ship sometime this week or next. I don't want to start plumbing my fuel system or wiring my sensors until the engine is sitting in bay. Do not want any extra length in lines/wiring etc. That's the plan anyway.
 
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So this past weekend, I file fitted my piston rings and mounted my Callies "Compstar Sport Series" rods to the Diamond pistons. Will be running 10.5:1 which is a touch less than the stock 11:1 C.R. The wrist pins are also beefy at 22mm. My fingers still hurt from installing those damn Spiro locks though. Next is to clean up the deck then get ready to start installing stuff. The fun stuff!

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Oh yes buddy. Did some deck cleaning yesterday. I normally use a razor blade on our 4G63 iron blocks but cleaning this Aluminum block, I decided to use something else. Used this that I ordered from Amazon. Such a great deal. Came with 2 scrapers and 50 blades in there. Amazing price for $5!
 
Yikes....almost a month since the last update. I have been making some progress. I have installed the pistons/rods. For whatever reason, this was rather challenging until I found the best way to do it. Heads have been installed. I broke one of the VCT actuators during install by not being careful so I went ahead and bought a brand new cam drive kit from Ford that included 4 brand new actuators, new primary and secondary chains, new chain guides, hardware and Boss 302 tensioners for both the primary and secondary chains. It was right at $600 but you have to think me replacing ONE actuator would have been $200. The Boss 302 tensioners are actually upgrades over my stock stuff (better for high revving) so will work great. I had planned to reuse my timing stuff (had 50k miles) but here we go with brand new shit.

I also bought a fitting for the oil filter housing which I will use for my turbo feed and an oil pressure sensor I intend to run. Pictures will follow. Next is to bolt down the oil pickup, install the oil pan, timing gear cover then slowly bolt the accessories on the engine. I have also purchased a new slave cylinder which I will use with the T56.
 
I really appreciate this content because I low key want this exact car. My E60 will walk a stockish one of these HARD but when it breaks it sure is an expensive pain in the ass.
 
Connecting rod specs and a shot of my Diamond piston. I did learn something that these do have an extra ring below the oil control rings since the wrist pin has no actual physical separation with the oil rings. I was wondering why I had an extra set of oil rings LOL.

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Just a little organizing before I start assembling stuff. Lots of cleaning, deburring and stuff. Very time consuming process. I also had to buy a bore specific piston installer/ring compressor because the other two different types I had would not work with these piston/ring pack.

PS: These cars came with MLS from the factory so not very much cleaning was needed for the decks.

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Replacing the weak oil pump gears and crank gear with billet units. This is usual Coyote maintenance especially if you plan to rev and/or hit the limiter. They like to crack/shatter. On the bottom, the left is the billet gear, and the right is the stock one. What you see is probably dust. It's actually smooth after it was cleaned up. There is no way it would go onto the crank's snout if it was like that.

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A little oopsie when I was installing one of the VCT actuators. I cracked it. I ended up buying a new OEM cam drive set that came with all 4 new ones (remember this car is VVT on both intake and exhaust,) new timing hardware (remember the TTY issue), new primary and secondary chains (4) and new primary and secondary tensioners (4) new tensioner guides and a new OEM crank gear for about $600. Not bad! Good thing here is I automatically got the improved and better tensioners from the 2013/2014 Boss 302 program which are better for higher RPM. That car revved to 8100rpm stock and was a good platform to improve the Coyote motor.

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McCleod RXT Twin Disc, flywheel and the steel SFI rated bellhousing that came with my T56 trans. Nice pretty stuff you will not see because I will hide them in the engine bay.

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Stock pulse ring that I am upgrading. Again, from the BOSS 302 program, they improved this component for high rpm to enable better RPM pickup by the crankshaft sensor. This arrives today then I can install my clutch. This is located behind the flywheel and it's the only way you can remove/install it.

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Plan is to install the engine into the car this Memorial day then attempt the install of the trans separately. Wish me luck. I have been told it's a bi*** on jackstands LOL but doable. I do have a trans jack so that should help some.The 4 plate blockoff bracket you can see in middle of this shot is a secondary location for the shifter if say, this was installed in a foxbody.

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