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1G My GS only runs like it should for 15-20 seconds?

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mik3ripp3r

Proven Member
33
0
Oct 6, 2012
Kearney, Nebraska
okay...heres the deal....I bought a 94 eclipse gs 1.8 with about 5000 miles on a completely rebuilt motor but never got finished.... It ran perfectly after I replaced the fuel pump/ fuel pump relay, timing belt, distributor and an engine mount (basically finished it up after the rebuild).

Then.....about a year ago my idiot friend needed a jump start and in doing so he put the ground to the positive and the positive to the ground on my car! :ohdamn: It sparked and lurched but still ran and didnt notice anything wrong...... until I went to drive it.:mad:

Whats happening is it only runs like it should after sitting overnight or is completely cold.... for about 15-20 seconds it runs like it just rolled off the showroom ..... then it goes into stumble mode like its only runnin on 3 cylinders or somethin for the rest of the day.... its really bad (especially on cold days) until it warms up, then its just kind of bad .... but still dosent run like it did after a cold start. It dosent top out rpms like it did and im sure im wasting fuel because of this and it is embarrassing. :|

I dont have a check engine light on and I know that works because I left my MAF unhooked and it triggered that. I tried replacing the coolant temperature sensor thinkin that had somethin to do with it but it didnt and I have read my haynes manual through about 100 times trying to figure this out.

I hope someone has an idea about what might be going on here and can help out because Im getting desperate here. Thanks.
 
@ kleenf4i @iaintmaci Heres some pics of my spare ecu that didn't work (at all). I checked the numbers and It is the exact on that I have (so in isnt CA like I thought) but the bottom line is my car did not start AT ALL when I installed this one.... the black goo is only on those two prongs around those resistors/capacitors in the close up. I scraped it around with a pic a little so that's why it looks like it's been scraped around with a pic a little..LOL.. The only other thing I notice is just a light haze over the board... it's like it extends from the glue on the edges across the board? but besides that, both front and back look pretty good....no burnt smell at all... so I will be looking into getting this fixed just to have a spare one or another one to try if everything else dosent work out here.

I am going to the "bone yard" tomorrow and going to be raping "dead souls" of everything they have that might help me.... Any Ideas other than another o2, coolant temp sensor, purge control selenoid valve, and possibly another Distributor? I know Im missing something? .... relays?...

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thanks!

okay.. I pulled out my "CA" ECU and it is labeled 6/90-5/94 - MD159561
E2T33674A which shows being a federal unit. so Im thinkin the "ebay seller" didnt know what he had apparantly?" bottom line is though....my car did not start at all after I hooked this up....do I need to reset it in anyway?.... other wise im crackin this bad boy open and start familiarizing myself before I dig mine out from behind my dash...

he wrote on the unit also MSRP 1484.32 ... as in "manufacture suggested retail price".... LOL! I paid $600 less for the car itself!

opened the CA ecu and dont see anything melted or really abnormal.....the only thing I notice kind of odd it some gouey black residue around the connections of R122 & C4 circuts.... the other side looks fine around that area and nothing is melted at all.... I know Im gettin a little geekey with this and I dont expect anyone to really have any info on the internal schematics of an ECU... but you never know.

Try vfaq.com pretty sure the ecu you purchased is fried via the black goo being a testament to tje caps either leaking or being burnt either way its bad and so is yours. Save yourself all the agrivation and headaches and replace the ecu but be sure all the numbers match up or it will not start your car. Try that and let me kno if that helps out.
 
That spare ecu is fried. Your distributor only has one coil, so either all cylinders will get spark or none will. As for the isc, a bad one will only effect idle, and will not have any effect on the car once you give it throttle.

I suppose a bad tps can cause your problems as well. At closed throttle it should read around .52 -.56 volts. at full throttle it should be reading close to 5volts. Test it with the engine off but key in on position. you could also unbolt it from the throttle body, but leave it plugged in, laying off to the side. If its bad this should make the engine run better as the ecu will ignore the tps signal and use the o2 and maf to determine fueling. If it runs worse or wont run at all like that then it points to either o2 sensor or maf.
 
Its gonna be a busy day tomorrow!!... thanks fellas!

I just had a relization....thats not haze from the glue...thats friggin smoke huh?
 
@ kleenf4i @iaintmaci Heres some pics of my spare ecu that didn't work (at all). I checked the numbers and It is the exact on that I have (so in isnt CA like I thought) but the bottom line is my car did not start AT ALL when I installed this one.... the black goo is only on those two prongs around those resistors/capacitors in the close up. I scraped it around with a pic a little so that's why it looks like it's been scraped around with a pic a little..LOL.. The only other thing I notice is just a light haze over the board... it's like it extends from the glue on the edges across the board? but besides that, both front and back look pretty good....no burnt smell at all... so I will be looking into getting this fixed just to have a spare one or another one to try if everything else dosent work out here.

I am going to the "bone yard" tomorrow and going to be raping "dead souls" of everything they have that might help me.... Any Ideas other than another o2, coolant temp sensor, purge control selenoid valve, and possibly another Distributor? I know Im missing something? .... relays?...

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dude that thing is TOASTED! OMG PLEASE REPORT BACK
 
alright fellas! Im exlporing a change of direction here.. I did go to the junk yard but only found a purge control selenoid valve and that did nothing...sooooo.... Remember how I said my "friend" was the one that screwed this up?...well....my friend happens to be my BOSS and I work at a nationally known quick lube shop and the car that was in need of a jump was a customers and it didnt start after the oil change. I was "told" (I did not offer) to pull my car up so they could jump it....so I did being helpful and following direction. I had no hand on the cables that were crossed and it was an accident but the bottom line is.....I am fed up with trying to fix this myself when It wasnt my fault and it was on company time and property and under direct "orders".

Sooo I drank a couple of beers, got my balls up and called my "Boss/friend" just now and told him that we need to claim my car as a warranty and get this fixed. No word on the out come from the higher level just yet but I have high hopes that this little fubar will be resolved.....off my watch and without another of my own dimes spent. I should have done this in the first place but, being an MAN and all, sometimes you just want to think you can take care of anything yourself! Ill keep posted on the outcome and anything I should be aware of going into this little mess feel free to comment! Thanks again everyone! :ninja:
 
good deal. well I will say, from seeing what I have seen in the picture. This is now defiantly the ECU. Thats exactly how the one I fried looked like.
 
ill post pics of it when It is resolved and if that is in fact the issue..... I too am interested to find out what the hell is going on but after spending soo many of my days off trying to fix someting that happened at work...Im through!
 
LOL......that sounds easy and all (and it is) but I have massive stereo and alarm electronics running through that area to where I just cant unbolt and drop it out without taking everything out. Ive done it and I'd do it again but as I said...Im done.
 
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