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My fuse box relocation (project log)

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Yep, it was his first time out with it so he was taking it easy (that and it's tuned for e85... and he didn't plan ahead to check availability of e in the area so he was running 93 instead..).. though I'm pretty sure he's just making excuses for why he got passed ROFL

There's no shame at all in getting passed, especially at the first track day! It's amazing how some people think they can come on the track and be stars right out of the gate. Not saying that's the case here but I've seen it multiple times. Even though the car's potential is there, it takes a lot of laps to gain the skills and trust in the car that it can do what you ask of it. It's also amazing at how quick any car can be, let alone a track ready car like his. We took a joy ride around Watkins Glen a couple years back at a wine festival. I think there was three of us plus the driver in a Camry and it was crazy how fast that thing could go in the hands of a skilled driver and he wasn't even pushing it.

I have many years in my car and generally know its (and my) limits. But I'm sure a pro could still whoop me using a riding lawnmower if they wanted :p
 
I have many years in my car and generally know its (and my) limits. But I'm sure a pro could still whoop me using a riding lawnmower if they wanted :p
Now THIS is something I'd pay to watch :D.

Back on topic, I'm excited to see the braking data you pulled from this trip. My car is in no way track ready, but seeing builds like yours (and a few others on here) gives me the inspiration to keep pushing forward.
 
Pocono track weekend recap! We had the usual crew minus Brian (myself, Camaro, GT4, Evo, and C7). This was an event hosted by the Cumberland Valley Corvette Club. So it was mostly Corvettes although we had some other cars mixed in as well. This was my first time ever going to Pocono Raceway.

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I live a little over two hours away from Pocono Raceway so it's not a bad drive, but to add some excitement to the trip there was a high wind advisory on Friday evening. And it sure was windy; 25-35mph sustained wind with gusts up to 60mph. Not the most fun trip with an F-150 and a 24' enclosed trailer. We debated for a while on going up Saturday morning instead, but decided to just take our time going up on Friday after work. It took a lot longer than it should have but we made it safely.
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To add a little more excitement to the trip, it snowed on Friday night. Just a tiny bit, but enough that there was still a very slight dusting on the cars Saturday morning. It stayed COLD all day Saturday. We were a little worried about the low track temps with aggressive tires, but everything was fine. We started out slow to get used to the track and be cautious with the low temps. Being with a bunch of Corvettes was a little worrying too. We kind of expected that we would get drag raced down the straight and then held up in the infield, but the Intermediate group I was in was actually a great group. There were a couple of people that were stingy on point-bys, but most people gave them quickly and didn't try to outrace you while passing.

On the first session out on Saturday I noticed I was running pretty lean, so I added a bunch of fuel in with the sliders after that. I had to bump it up again after the second session and got it close enough. I think it was probably a combination of the cold weather and CAI and potentially the new turbine wheel. I'll have to retune the car again later to get it better dialed in.
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Other than that, Saturday went without a hitch. Sunday morning I got the car out of the trailer and had it warming up for the first session. A couple of guys came over to chat about the car and one of them commented about getting a faint whiff of coolant. I jokingly said that it could be my car. And.....it was. (I have distilled water in the system but there is some residual coolant.) The water fittings on the wastegate had loosened up just enough that they weren't sealing well. I took one off, put a new crush washer on it, and red-Loctited it in. Started up the car and found the other was loose too so I just cranked it down. And literally the minute before I went on track for the first session, I put a little dab of JB Kwik on each fitting for good measure, fully expecting it to do nothing and burn off.
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So we go out on the track and I'm getting a little spray on the windshield through the hood vents and the smell of the water/coolant burning off. I couldn't clean it all off the hose jackets so I wasn't too surprised. Then I start seeing bigger drops. And more drops, and bigger drops, but the smell is going away. I was relieved to realize it was just rain :p So after fumbling around trying to figure out how to use my wipers we finish the session in a slight rain. The second session also had rain too but the grip was 90% there so it wasn't bad. And that JB Kwik held up the rest of the day much to my surprise!

Big thanks to @snowborder714 for these pictures. There was really only one spot to shoot from.
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This thing was pretty cool. Just an HPDE car but it looked FAST. Zoom in on the license plate/holder ROFL
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And some of my favorites.
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As for the brake temp data, the front caliper got to 379F, the front rotor got to at least 1000F (I checked at one point and the 1200F rotor paint didn't melt, but I forgot to check again), the rear caliper didn't even register on the strip, and the rear rotor didn't melt the 800F paint. AP Racing states:
  • Calipers that regularly run at up to 200°C - Re-seal every other event.
  • Calipers that run intermittently from 200°C to 220°C - Re-seal as soon as possible.
So I'm not particularly worried at this point, but I should probably consider having these resealed at the end of the season since I've never serviced them.
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My fastest lap:



All in all, it was a good weekend with friends and the Corvette club was great. The event was a little unorganized/unprofessional since the club itself was running the show and they only do this like once a year. But if you look past that, it was fun! I'm debating if I want to weld the fittings into the wastegate or just let the JB Kwik alone for now. A little usual maintenance work and cleanup and the car will be ready for the next track day. Next up is the Star-Spangled HPDE at Pitt Race July 3-4.
 
Pocono track weekend recap! We had the usual crew minus Brian (myself, Camaro, GT4, Evo, and C7). This was an event hosted by the Cumberland Valley Corvette Club. So it was mostly Corvettes although we had some other cars mixed in as well. This was my first time ever going to Pocono Raceway.

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I live a little over two hours away from Pocono Raceway so it's not a bad drive, but to add some excitement to the trip there was a high wind advisory on Friday evening. And it sure was windy; 25-35mph sustained wind with gusts up to 60mph. Not the most fun trip with an F-150 and a 24' enclosed trailer. We debated for a while on going up Saturday morning instead, but decided to just take our time going up on Friday after work. It took a lot longer than it should have but we made it safely.
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To add a little more excitement to the trip, it snowed on Friday night. Just a tiny bit, but enough that there was still a very slight dusting on the cars Saturday morning. It stayed COLD all day Saturday. We were a little worried about the low track temps with aggressive tires, but everything was fine. We started out slow to get used to the track and be cautious with the low temps. Being with a bunch of Corvettes was a little worrying too. We kind of expected that we would get drag raced down the straight and then held up in the infield, but the Intermediate group I was in was actually a great group. There were a couple of people that were stingy on point-bys, but most people gave them quickly and didn't try to outrace you while passing.

On the first session out on Saturday I noticed I was running pretty lean, so I added a bunch of fuel in with the sliders after that. I had to bump it up again after the second session and got it close enough. I think it was probably a combination of the cold weather and CAI and potentially the new turbine wheel. I'll have to retune the car again later to get it better dialed in.
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Other than that, Saturday went without a hitch. Sunday morning I got the car out of the trailer and had it warming up for the first session. A couple of guys came over to chat about the car and one of them commented about getting a faint whiff of coolant. I jokingly said that it could be my car. And.....it was. (I have distilled water in the system but there is some residual coolant.) The water fittings on the wastegate had loosened up just enough that they weren't sealing well. I took one off, put a new crush washer on it, and red-Loctited it in. Started up the car and found the other was loose too so I just cranked it down. And literally the minute before I went on track for the first session, I put a little dab of JB Kwik on each fitting for good measure, fully expecting it to do nothing and burn off.
View attachment 628728

So we go out on the track and I'm getting a little spray on the windshield through the hood vents and the smell of the water/coolant burning off. I couldn't clean it all off the hose jackets so I wasn't too surprised. Then I start seeing bigger drops. And more drops, and bigger drops, but the smell is going away. I was relieved to realize it was just rain :p So after fumbling around trying to figure out how to use my wipers we finish the session in a slight rain. The second session also had rain too but the grip was 90% there so it wasn't bad. And that JB Kwik held up the rest of the day much to my surprise!

Big thanks to @snowborder714 for these pictures. There was really only one spot to shoot from.
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This thing was pretty cool. Just an HPDE car but it looked FAST. Zoom in on the license plate/holder ROFL
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And some of my favorites.
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As for the brake temp data, the front caliper got to 379F, the front rotor got to at least 1000F (I checked at one point and the 1200F rotor paint didn't melt, but I forgot to check again), the rear caliper didn't even register on the strip, and the rear rotor didn't melt the 800F paint. AP Racing states:
  • Calipers that regularly run at up to 200°C - Re-seal every other event.
  • Calipers that run intermittently from 200°C to 220°C - Re-seal as soon as possible.
So I'm not particularly worried at this point, but I should probably consider having these resealed at the end of the season since I've never serviced them.
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My fastest lap:



All in all, it was a good weekend with friends and the Corvette club was great. The event was a little unorganized/unprofessional since the club itself was running the show and they only do this like once a year. But if you look past that, it was fun! I'm debating if I want to weld the fittings into the wastegate or just let the JB Kwik alone for now. A little usual maintenance work and cleanup and the car will be ready for the next track day. Next up is the Star-Spangled HPDE at Pitt Race July 3-4.

Great recap! Cool to see all the different cars out there (a lot of GM cars) and a DSM out there making its way around the track. Get any comments/discussions about the car?
 
Great recap! Cool to see all the different cars out there (a lot of GM cars) and a DSM out there making its way around the track. Get any comments/discussions about the car?
He's got a bunch of people that rotate for the events that he pays handsomely to strike up conversations and ogle at his car :shhh:

Haha, Brian's not wrong! They always poke fun of me for having my hired "fan club".

But in all seriousness, there are ALWAYS people that come over during track days to talk about the car. Some because they didn't expect it to be quick, but mostly from nostalgia. There are so many people that used to have a DSM or knew a family member/friend that had one back in the day. And, of course, they always comment how you never see them anymore, especially at the track. At this event, one of the corner workers fell into this category and came over to chat. There were sportbikes running on the other half of the track and a few of those guys even came over to talk about it.
 
Haha, Brian's not wrong! They always poke fun of me for having my hired "fan club".

But in all seriousness, there are ALWAYS people that come over during track days to talk about the car. Some because they didn't expect it to be quick, but mostly from nostalgia. There are so many people that used to have a DSM or knew a family member/friend that had one back in the day. And, of course, they always comment how you never see them anymore, especially at the track. At this event, one of the corner workers fell into this category and came over to chat. There were sportbikes running on the other half of the track and a few of those guys even came over to talk about it.
I think the 2g body style is more recognizable - I remember when I'd run the 1g at the track half the people would come up afterwards to find out what it was that was passing them.

It is fun to strike conversations with people who used to own one. I have that happen more often than you'd think when working on other business projects. I'll mention the forum in passing and they'll tell me all about the DSM they used to own. It's really cool.
 
We were at Pitt Race this weekend for the Star Spangled HPDE. My front brake pads were pretty low since the last track day, so I put on a fresh set of G-Loc R16s (same as before). I put some fresh JB Weld on the wastegate water fittings to make sure they didn't come loose. I only drove the car one day I think since the last track day, so I took the car for a quick spin on Friday before loading it in the trailer just to make sure the brakes felt OK. They felt fine, but the car was very lean - running about 13:1. And this was even with the fuel sliders still bumped up from Pocono. I ended up having to move the fuel sliders up about 7-8% more to get it in check. I'm honestly not sure why the change. I also noticed when prepping the car there was some oil on the fan and shifter cable area, right where my BOV vents to. I thought about emptying the catch can (it takes some effort) but ended up not doing so since I've had very little oil in there in the past. Stay tuned for more on that.

It was just myself and my friend with the GT4. We headed out there Friday after work. This was the first time I slept in my trailer with the car. It was a snug fit but I enjoyed the car's company.
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This was also my first track day running with the Advanced group. The difference between the groups is that Advanced is allowed to pass (still with a point by) anywhere on track instead of just on straights. We had about half the number of cars in Advanced compared to Intermediate as well.
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My main goal for the weekend was to get a sub 2 minute lap. I've been shooting for one for at least the past three years and was hopeful I could get it in the Advanced group since it's a quicker pace in general and less traffic to deal with. My best lap times are typically in the second session of the day since I've knocked the cobwebs off but before the track starts getting too hot. But the first few sessions I was noticing the track felt more "slippery" than usual. I thought it might be my tires starting to lose pace, but I talked to a handful of other people throughout the weekend that noticed the same and were running up to three seconds off their normal pace. Turns 10 and 14 were particularly greasy and I almost lost it a few times in the early sessions and had to adjust my approach to them. Again, I thought I was going crazy but other people confirmed similar experiences on those specific turns.

Despite the abnormal track conditions, I managed to knock out a 1:59.90 in the afternoon Saturday :) So stoked!! I didn't have my lap timer screen up in the morning so I could focus on driving without paying attention to the clock, but I turned it on for the afternoon. I was on a good hot lap with the predictive timer bouncing between 1:59 to 2:00 and I came in a little too hot on turn 17 and scrubbed off too much speed resulting in a 2:00.20. I took a slower lap to cool the brakes and tires then went for another hot lap. The lap timer was bouncing again but mostly on 2:00 so I didn't think I was going to get it, but I just barely got the 1:59! That ended up being the best lap of the whole weekend, I wasn't able to improve it Sunday.
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I noticed a little bit of water spray on my windshield Saturday morning. Sure enough, the wastegate water fittings started backing out and leaking a little. I JB welded them again - didn't help. Safety wired the hose to prevent it from moving with the fitting - still moved. I tried fixing it again Saturday night after it cooled down and when I tried to snug up the fitting it kept spinning - the threads in the wastegate stripped out. At that point I removed the lines and decided to run Sunday without water cooling. The worst that would happen is I would cook the diaphragm.
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I also noticed more oil coming out of the BOV each session. I drained the catch can Saturday evening and got about 16oz of oil out, way more than I ever have before. There was also more evidence of my turbo to manifold gasket leaking on the compressor side. The gaskets always leak a little and I have red soot around them, but it looks like the gasket blew out on the side a little.

Another strange thing I noticed is that my front calipers got very hot (at least 466F) and the pads were wearing much quicker than usual. The yellow AP Racing logo actually started turning brownish on the front left caliper. I'm solidly in the "rebuild now!" temperature range, so I really should have them serviced over the winter. The rotors are nearly done for too but haven't quite cracked through all the way to the edges. The pads wore from 20mm to probably 7mm over the weekend. The only thing I can think is I was running many more consistent fast laps (2:00-2:03) due to the lack of traffic and quicker point bys. In Intermediate, I would often have sections where I got slowed down and the brakes would cool some and I wouldn't brake as much.
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So Sunday I was keeping a very close eye on the brakes and tires all day along with the oil spewing situation. There was less oil coming out of the BOV each session so that was good. After the first three sessions, I contemplated calling it a day and skipping the afternoon to conserve the brakes. I have two more track days this year and don't really want to spend the money on new pads at the moment. I decided to go out one more session and started overboosting so I called it a day.

I stayed with this beautiful GT350R for three sessions through Saturday. He was pretty stingy with his point by's, but we were paced similarly enough that it didn't matter too much. I would get up on him in some sections then he would pull away a little in the straights. I expected him to walk me completely in the straights but it was surprising how little he pulled on me. I talked to him and he said he wasn't able to get a sub 2 minute lap and he has done 1:57's in the past. I heard he put on fresh tires Sunday afternoon (on his spare set of carbon fiber wheels).
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This car was in my group too. A retired Ligier LMP3. I talked to the owner briefly and he said he had bought and tried to track all of the street cars possible, then finally just decided to buy a real race car. He just does track days with it, no racing. Someone else I talked to said he's over $400k into the car and it was shipped from Europe. I strongly suspect he wasn't driving it anywhere near its limits, but even still, when you saw it in the rearview mirror you got your arm out the window for the point by fast!
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This was a nice S2K in my group as well, super cool owner. We chatted for awhile, especially about the AR-1 tires since he was running them too.
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This guy runs in the American Iron series and was dialing in his suspension for an upcoming race at Pitt Race at the end of the month. He was running 1:57's. I was planning to try to hang with him in my last session Sunday since I gridded behind him but I started having issues and had to back off. The engine was pretty much stock he said.
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One of the instructors was running his SRT10 truck. He came into my session only once I think and nearly caused an accident when he all but came to a stop pitting in. I was barreling down him on the back straight and had the GT350R and a Corvette following closely behind. That was a bit of a mess. The Viper parked behind him was super fast too.
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So here's how the car sits at the moment.
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Before the next track day, I need to:
  • Check WBO2 calibration
  • Check brakes, bleed brakes, change caliper temp strip
  • Clean oil out of intake, IC pipes, IC
  • Fix wastegate water fittings, identify cause of overboost
    • I was planning to just weld the water fittings but just now realized they're stainless and the wg hats are aluminum. So either I get aluminum fittings which may not be a great idea or get a new lower hat since it's damaged and figure out another plan. Open to ideas!
    • The diaphragm is also showing wear so I'll either get a new one or replace it with my good spare.
  • Drain catch cans, make future draining easier
  • Band-aid turbo gasket leak
  • Fix the GoPro - it was turning itself off randomly all weekend so I have no good video
  • Retune SD table if I have time

I love my car and I get a kick out of being able to hang with some fast cars on the track, but it's weekends like this that make me thing about retiring it from track duty. Yes, it ran decently and no major issues happened, but there's always this little shit. And my friends now have cars that are stock and going nearly as fast (or faster). And Brian and I keep talking about getting into W2W racing to take our skills to the next level. HPDE has been fun but it might be time for a change. Nothing is set in stone yet of course, but these are the things that cross my mind. I dunno, maybe I'm just too OCD trying to keep it perfect and clean and worrying about some stuff most people wouldn't for a "track" car.
 
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Having been away from the track for some time - remembering how hard it is most days - I can say now while working my way back, every day at the track is a privilege. Those days are days I like to remember.

Thank you for sharing this thread. I'm having a lot of good memories resurface.
 
The catch can situation is what i had issues with! The internal design is wide open and the in ports are directly next to an opening on the out port so it got sucked sideways and i had the same thing. I now use that can as a primary and made one thats better inside for real baffling and zero chance of oil getting through to the outlet side.

The fittings on the WG if it keeps happening is it because the threads are shot or something? Im assuming here so might be wrong but they npt threads?? You could always braize them onto the housing as that will hold and you can do SS to Al then as temps wont become much on an issue and melt it off like the JB weld might.
Other then that i say change the WG as thats likely your other issue as you mention this and overboost so im starting to think its your WG as a cause and the new turbosmarts are ment to be super awesome from the few i know that run them. Plus they are still tiny.

Brakes could be the fluid as the issue. The strips im assuming you swap each race as they only do 1 use before being useless. What type of ducting you got on the brakes as i dont remember and im on my phone right now so not as easy to go check bacm right now to see. I dont remember if you got the porsche ducts as a few done that and cannot remember who.
 
The catch can situation is what i had issues with! The internal design is wide open and the in ports are directly next to an opening on the out port so it got sucked sideways and i had the same thing. I now use that can as a primary and made one thats better inside for real baffling and zero chance of oil getting through to the outlet side.

The fittings on the WG if it keeps happening is it because the threads are shot or something? Im assuming here so might be wrong but they npt threads?? You could always braize them onto the housing as that will hold and you can do SS to Al then as temps wont become much on an issue and melt it off like the JB weld might.
Other then that i say change the WG as thats likely your other issue as you mention this and overboost so im starting to think its your WG as a cause and the new turbosmarts are ment to be super awesome from the few i know that run them. Plus they are still tiny.

Brakes could be the fluid as the issue. The strips im assuming you swap each race as they only do 1 use before being useless. What type of ducting you got on the brakes as i dont remember and im on my phone right now so not as easy to go check bacm right now to see. I dont remember if you got the porsche ducts as a few done that and cannot remember who.

This is an OG Calan catch can. While I'm sure it's not as good as his later versions, I haven't had issues with it before. Something is causing more oil to push into the can than normal. I have theories but am afraid to confirm them haha.

I believe the wastegate fittings are loosening due to heat cycles. The threads in the wg were fine up until I tried to fix it again Saturday evening and now one of them is stripped out. They're metric threads with a crush washer for sealing. I'll have to look into the brazing, thanks for the tip. I'm not really looking to change the whole wg at this point since that would likely mean replacing the O2 housing as well. At that point, I might us well just go big and get an EFR turbo with v-band everything and stop dealing with this nonsense.

I didn't replace the temp strip since the last session since I figured the temps would go higher at Pitt Race than Pocono. I don't have any ducting on the brakes right now but if this trend continues I will have to consider it.
 
This is an OG Calan catch can. While I'm sure it's not as good as his later versions, I haven't had issues with it before. Something is causing more oil to push into the can than normal. I have theories but am afraid to confirm them haha.

I believe the wastegate fittings are loosening due to heat cycles. The threads in the wg were fine up until I tried to fix it again Saturday evening and now one of them is stripped out. They're metric threads with a crush washer for sealing. I'll have to look into the brazing, thanks for the tip. I'm not really looking to change the whole wg at this point since that would likely mean replacing the O2 housing as well. At that point, I might us well just go big and get an EFR turbo with v-band everything and stop dealing with this nonsense.

I didn't replace the temp strip since the last session since I figured the temps would go higher at Pitt Race than Pocono. I don't have any ducting on the brakes right now but if this trend continues I will have to consider it.
How often are you changing your brake fluid? Every 3 weekends or so? I think you should look into some type of brake ducting, even if it's just some deflectors to get air up into a hose that feeds the rotor. This should help the life of pads, rotors, calipers, quite a bit.

What a pain in the ass with that wastegate. It reminds me of my non-water cooled Tial. I had the boost pressure fitting backing off every so often. Seems like threaded fittings in the wastegate isn't ideal for the road course.

Those other cars are pretty cool, especially that Ligier LMP3. I've always dreamt of going out and buying a Radical to have as a dedicated track car. Don't have the funds to do it, but that would be ideal. :)
 
This is an OG Calan catch can. While I'm sure it's not as good as his later versions, I haven't had issues with it before. Something is causing more oil to push into the can than normal. I have theories but am afraid to confirm them haha.

I believe the wastegate fittings are loosening due to heat cycles. The threads in the wg were fine up until I tried to fix it again Saturday evening and now one of them is stripped out. They're metric threads with a crush washer for sealing. I'll have to look into the brazing, thanks for the tip. I'm not really looking to change the whole wg at this point since that would likely mean replacing the O2 housing as well. At that point, I might us well just go big and get an EFR turbo with v-band everything and stop dealing with this nonsense.

I didn't replace the temp strip since the last session since I figured the temps would go higher at Pitt Race than Pocono. I don't have any ducting on the brakes right now but if this trend continues I will have to consider it.
the VS3 is what i have and it was forever pulling in oil still due to the hole being right next to the inlet so the thing just sucked it through into the out.
I think i know what yours might be and it does mean what we all know it means. other thing that could help for now is a block vent or vac pump to stop excess pressure pushing it all out the top. but ultimately you might know whats the right way to combat this.

on those fittings, anyway to make a lock on them both to keep them from coming loose? or better still convert them from your current lines to banjos where they will be alot less likely to loosen off (well in theory they wont) if you can find the right WG it might not be that big of a swap. but i do feel as if this WG is becoming the problem and not apart of something else myself and needs to be replaced. but as you say if you do that the turbo would likely be done but then the issues should be resolved and fun will be better!

due to reusing the temp strips i would not take that as any indication of temps as a precise reading since they have to be new to be accurate, they are a one use sticker for the most part and while they may still do something likely thing is they not working well. I kept being told when i put brembos on and the XP10 pads if i do check always replace the strips after one use or consider your dada invalid, this was from the shop down the road that build race cars for a living and they win loads of stuff so i trust them on this. they got fancy setup tools for everything you can imagine and im going to borrow a few of their tools for myself once final setup is in sight.

if you got no ducting you might consider something small anyway. i think your pads and calipers can handle alot more so i more feel as if the fluid might be an issue. how long ago did you replace it for new? also do you test it with the suction tool to check how hydroscopic its become? might be worth a cheap tool to keep an eye on it more often
 
How often are you changing your brake fluid? Every 3 weekends or so? I think you should look into some type of brake ducting, even if it's just some deflectors to get air up into a hose that feeds the rotor. This should help the life of pads, rotors, calipers, quite a bit.

What a pain in the ass with that wastegate. It reminds me of my non-water cooled Tial. I had the boost pressure fitting backing off every so often. Seems like threaded fittings in the wastegate isn't ideal for the road course.

Those other cars are pretty cool, especially that Ligier LMP3. I've always dreamt of going out and buying a Radical to have as a dedicated track car. Don't have the funds to do it, but that would be ideal. :)

I usually heavily bleed the brakes every event or two. It ends up getting fully changed probably ever two bleed sessions just because of how heavy I bleed it. But I never had issues with the brake performance, just the fact they're wearing down and getting hot. Why would brake fluid impact this?

A Radical would be awesome!

the VS3 is what i have and it was forever pulling in oil still due to the hole being right next to the inlet so the thing just sucked it through into the out.
I think i know what yours might be and it does mean what we all know it means. other thing that could help for now is a block vent or vac pump to stop excess pressure pushing it all out the top. but ultimately you might know whats the right way to combat this.

on those fittings, anyway to make a lock on them both to keep them from coming loose? or better still convert them from your current lines to banjos where they will be alot less likely to loosen off (well in theory they wont) if you can find the right WG it might not be that big of a swap. but i do feel as if this WG is becoming the problem and not apart of something else myself and needs to be replaced. but as you say if you do that the turbo would likely be done but then the issues should be resolved and fun will be better!

due to reusing the temp strips i would not take that as any indication of temps as a precise reading since they have to be new to be accurate, they are a one use sticker for the most part and while they may still do something likely thing is they not working well. I kept being told when i put brembos on and the XP10 pads if i do check always replace the strips after one use or consider your dada invalid, this was from the shop down the road that build race cars for a living and they win loads of stuff so i trust them on this. they got fancy setup tools for everything you can imagine and im going to borrow a few of their tools for myself once final setup is in sight.

if you got no ducting you might consider something small anyway. i think your pads and calipers can handle alot more so i more feel as if the fluid might be an issue. how long ago did you replace it for new? also do you test it with the suction tool to check how hydroscopic its become? might be worth a cheap tool to keep an eye on it more often

Oh, I didn't realize you had a VS3. I'm going to clean mine out good, clean the Hal oil cap, make it easier to drain, and observe before making any radical changes.

I can't think of any way to make the fittings lock besides welding or what I tried already. I did send TiAL a message today to see if they have any thoughts. Why would banjos be less likely to loosen than regular fittings?

Noted on the temp strips, thanks.

The fluid was fresh before the last track weekend. But still, I don't see how that could lead to premature brake pad wear or excess brake temps. I didn't have any problem with braking performance this weekend.
 
I usually heavily bleed the brakes every event or two. It ends up getting fully changed probably ever two bleed sessions just because of how heavy I bleed it. But I never had issues with the brake performance, just the fact they're wearing down and getting hot. Why would brake fluid impact this?

A Radical would be awesome!



Oh, I didn't realize you had a VS3. I'm going to clean mine out good, clean the Hal oil cap, make it easier to drain, and observe before making any radical changes.

I can't think of any way to make the fittings lock besides welding or what I tried already. I did send TiAL a message today to see if they have any thoughts. Why would banjos be less likely to loosen than regular fittings?

Noted on the temp strips, thanks.

The fluid was fresh before the last track weekend. But still, I don't see how that could lead to premature brake pad wear or excess brake temps. I didn't have any problem with braking performance this weekend.
Yup V3 and always had issues with oil getting sucked in the intake still. I did mention it to him but its a basic can overall and has its purpose but i needed more so thats why i now use 2 units and his as a pre stage one since its alot more open and can collect more volume then mine can.

The brake pad wear will be due to heat so maybe that alone is telling you brake ducts are required at some events or hot days.

I suggest banjos since they on the turbos and brakes and i have never once had them loosen and i dont think many others have too. So banjos seem to hold better from that thinking point of view. While im not massively clued up on what clamps better just thinking about it tells me its a long lasting way to secure something over heat cycles. Mainly the turbo that uses banjos and thats alot of hest in the CHRA for it never to back out. I dont know why the threads are not staying in but maybe due to being a straight thread its part of the issue? If you dont fancy braizing them then consider drilling and tapping for NPT or any taper thread to help but see what tial say and go from there. They might not have any problems or even want to say they do as i get things often said (oh i dont know this as its never been mentioned to us before) LOL so im the first one to always have issues it seems haha.

Im sure its going to be ok with them and they can advise you further
 
But I never had issues with the brake performance, just the fact they're wearing down and getting hot. Why would brake fluid impact this?
I wouldn't think it would, I'm more wondering if the excessive heat could be causing a shorter life for your fluid but probably not by that much. Sounds like you have a schedule for changing the fluid though, and it sounds like the temp strip might not be totally accurate - though the quick pad wear might be worth noting. Some deflectors under the lower control arms with short hoses to the center of the rotor could really help. Maybe like this: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/porsche-gt3-brake-ducts-installed-on-2g.490249/

 
I wouldn't think it would, I'm more wondering if the excessive heat could be causing a shorter life for your fluid but probably not by that much. Sounds like you have a schedule for changing the fluid though, and it sounds like the temp strip might not be totally accurate - though the quick pad wear might be worth noting. Some deflectors under the lower control arms with short hoses to the center of the rotor could really help. Maybe like this: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/porsche-gt3-brake-ducts-installed-on-2g.490249/


Thanks for the link, I'll look into those. I did some more research on the R16's last night and found out my experience with how quick they wear out isn't totally out of line. I found some Mustang/Corvette forums where people had similar experiences. Just the cost of going fast it seems! But more cooling may help.

I'm also going to keep this information in mind:

There's a lot of reasons why ducts may not be a good idea unless done properly. And to do it properly on a 2g seems extremely difficult with the lack of space. I'll mull it over for next season.

I`m sure there is some weight reduction removing all the insulation but won`t this make the interior like an oven ?

I don't notice any extreme heat in the interior. It's been so long since all the "insulation" has been taken out but I'm sure it just changed the noise in the interior more than anything.
 
I am just commenting in support and don't have much to add that hasn't been said already. I'll echo the Porsche ducts mod that I am sure you are well aware of. I have a set of ducts here but never installed them, as Andrew didn't run into over heating issues, nor did I in my year on track with the car. That may be more due to the fact in TA you're only pushing for a lap or two, vs a HPDE session which lasts a full 20 mins or so. Maybe slightly different goals for our cars, but you get the idea.

I especially felt that bit with newer cars in stock form doing things our 25 year old modded cars can barely hold together for, and have parts available. It's definitely a labor of love at this point to not be out of the DSM game, but as a track enthusiast (and to be platform agnostic) it's much harder to keep dumping money into the car. What I keep telling myself is a bunch of money is already spent, so no turning back now :p
 
It's definitely a labor of love at this point to not be out of the DSM game,
You can say that again :p

I've been emailing with TiAL today and Mike from Tech Support provided fantastic customer service. They're sending me a replacement lower housing and some spares to go with it and gave me some tips on what to try. He suspects the cause is just vibration. The top solution at this point is to try Dowty sealing washers on the water fittings with copper crush washers as a backup (instead of the aluminum crush washers they provide). I'm a little leery of it since the rubber is only rated for 220F, but he claims they have another team using them that has serious vibration issues. I attached the email conversation in case anyone wants to see it. I also ordered some aluminum weld -4 fittings, so I'm going to try welding them on the old lower housing to see how it goes. I'm not sure which way I'll go yet but leaning towards trying the welded fittings first provided I can get a good weld.
 

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Are you running a stock ride height? - From the Pic's, it looks like you have a lot of fender clearance.
I'm not sure what stock ride height is to even compare. I'm sure it's lower but not by a lot. The SPC UCA's in the front prevent from going too low anyway. But the general guideline which I followed is to not go so low to make the front lateral arms go past parallel to the ground.
 
Interesting - I'll take a look at where I'm at. Do you have camber numbers you can share?
Last I checked, it's -2.6f and -1.6r. I do not have provisions to change the rear camber on my car since I was happy where it ended up after the ride height adjustments.
 
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