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My fuse box relocation (project log)

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I watch those rod & custom shows on Velocity and I saw a guy who specialized in putting louvers like that in metal, definitely original. Here's another 2g with a louvered hood, how do you wash, wax, or buff the hood with those louvers Nic?

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Someone I follow on IG did something to vent their hood that I had never seen before and it came out pretty clean, using the skeleton of the hood underneath to hold the mesh. Simple idea but easy enough to make things look symmetrical without a bunch of hardware to hold the mesh in place.

Posted as thumbnails so this S2K doesn't take over your build thread. Something to consider doing to a DSM hood though?

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Not hard hard no, but they can work,
I was talking similer to what you have but much higher loads so say hydraulic lines as they are rated alot more for pulling apart or bursting, check out fork truck shops.

As for hard hard lines, they dont offer much movement but thats where you put a loop or kinks in the line so it allows movement, they used this technique in the olden days whe they fed fuel is copper or stainless tubes and the engines moved alot so it took up the slack uppon movement,

Both ways will work well, perhaps use stainless ptfe lines that use a ferral to lock it in the AN fitting! They dont seem to budge after that.

I had PTFE lines, that is what is pictured. I was thinking along the same lines as you for all metal lines - I just haven't found the right part yet.

You consider putting a heat blanket on the entire length of the your SS lines going to the EWG? Something like the DEI Heat Sheath Gold to put over the line that looks like it's touching the exhaust mani blanket?

All four lines are wrapped in Techflex Insultherm rated to 1200F continuous exposure. I'm almost positive they're melting from the inside out.

Just wanted to give you some motivation on the hood louvers. I have never seen another hood like mine and also never had any heating issues with it. I run a pretty big DVDT FMIC, A/C condenser and aluminum radiator. I will say that the cost to have it done is pricey. I've asked a few companies to replicate it and been quoted a nice price tag.View attachment 340181 View attachment 340182

I've seen that posted here before. Definitely unique and well executed! I'm trying to find a spare stock hood so I could just put on a Carbontrix vent I have, but the eventual plan is to get a Carbonetics AB hood.
 
Corey, the washing part is a pain; as expected. I have a thick mat I lay over the engine so water doesn't pool on the VC or sit on the mani. The waxing is a bit different. They angle of the louvers aren't so extreme of an angle you cant get the pad in there, but you do have to do it backwards if that makes sense (as if your waxing the hood while sitting on the windshield LOL).

Eric, ya I bought the car from a guy that used to be on here back in 2005-ish. The car in my avatar was the original way that I had bought it and has definitely changed since then; just haven't taken a better pick. I called Carbonetics to see if they could do a one off hood for me...and they looked at my hood and said "nope." Lol. Sad day. I can only imagine the hours needed to do each louver.

It does set the car apart though. That pic Corey posted was the first I've seen besides mine.
 
I had a blast at the Shootout this year! It was great to meet up with lots of people I haven't seen in a while and meeting new friends. I competed in the DSM autocross class and ended up getting first place.



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My crew hard at work...
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If you were autocrossing, let me know and we might have some pictures of you. @SOADweskey, my brother (@snowborder714) has a bunch of you I can give you.
 
I picked up a beat-up spare hood for $20 and put in a carbon fiber 18" Carbontrix vent yesterday. I'm heading to Summit Point Main Circuit this weekend with some friends so we'll see if this helps.

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Saturday at Summit Point went well! I went with my brother @snowborder714 and our two friends (also brothers) with an Evo and a Focus ST.

It was a cooler day out, but I had absolutely no issues with the car so I'm stoked about that. My coolant temps never got above 204* so I know the vented hood is helping. I'll inspect the wastegate diaphragm over the winter to see if water-cooling it helped. I felt that my instructor for the two morning sessions held me back quite a bit, but I had much more fun in the afternoon after I went solo. We had some issues with Brian's car that prevented him from running full afternoon sessions. The ST had a minor brake caliper issue in the first session so he couldn't drive two of the four sessions while he sourced a replacement. But we all had a ton of fun and the weather was perfect!

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This ACR Viper was in the Novice class with both my friends and they were both passing him. He had the same instructor I did so we suspect he was being held back quite a bit as well...
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I purchased two Racetech seats: 4009 for the driver and 4009W (wide) for the passenger. I originally purchased Planted seat bases but they sat me way too high. I'm 5'10" but even with the stock seats and a sunroof my helmet would hit the headliner.

I tossed around a LOT of ideas how to mount these and this is what I ended up with. With the new seat mounts, I have about 0.5" or so of clearance, plus I have the option to purchase a different seat cushion to get up to 30mm lower if I need to. I did all of the work on these from modeling in SolidWorks to the machining and tack welding, then had a shop do the final welding.

The base tubes are made from 3/4" x 11ga. square steel tube, and the brackets welded to them are 1/4" steel. The inner diameter of the tubes is perfect to fit an M8 nut inside. I used Racetech 5mm aluminum brackets on the outsides and made my own inner brackets from 1/8" thick angle steel. The holes in the tubes are spaced appropriately so I have 5mm resolution fore and aft. I originally intended to use Racetech brackets on both sides so I would have height adjustment as well, but the way things worked out I need to be all the way down to fit and couldn't use the Racetech bracket on the inside without modification. The seat literally sits on the inside fasteners to the chassis and I actually had to cut the front inner stud down to remove the non-threaded portion. The chassis was clearanced to allow the seats to sit as far inboard so the driver is centered to the steering wheel and so the passenger seat does not hit the door panel.

I decided to mount the seat belt clips to the tunnel since it was easier and safer than trying to mount them to the seat brackets. Plus, if I ever get harnesses I'll be ready for them. I made my own harness backing plates from 1/8" steel. These fit in between layers of sheet metal under the car to hold them in place. The rear seat belt clips were used. I still need to powdercoat everything but I'm looking forward to driving the car soon after a loooong winter.


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Very good design work there, if i remember rightly you dont plan on a cage do you?
 
Very good design work there, if i remember rightly you dont plan on a cage do you?

Thanks! At this time, I don't plan on a cage but I may install one in the future. I think this decision will mostly be based on if I feel the need to install harnesses. If I do, I'll likely go with a very simple four or six point cage.
 
Thanks! At this time, I don't plan on a cage but I may install one in the future. I think this decision will mostly be based on if I feel the need to install harnesses. If I do, I'll likely go with a very simple four or six point cage.
Right, if you do go down this route be ready to hit your helmet. As your height vs mounting point you essentually could be around the height of the cage and hit.

I recently dropped my bracket down more and now i only just sit nice with cage and padding. But its still tight and touches, you being higher and shorter might make it tight also. Just food for thought incase, if notjust a 4 point main hoop back as you say helps, or a good strong harness bar if you dont want a cage
 
I had a track day at Pitt Race last Saturday. The weather was in the mid 90's so I did have some overheating issues, but I expected that with how hot it was. The seats were a nice upgrade over the stock ones. I didn't get any pictures, but here is a video of my two quickest laps.

 
It was another scorcher at Pitt Race during Carfest last weekend, but a bunch of friends and family came out and we had a blast. I got to take several people for rides around the track. I shaved another 2-3 seconds off my previous best lap times so I'm definitely getting more familiar with the car and track. I really want to get a sub-two minute lap time at Pitt Race! I know the car can do it, just need to keep improving the driver :)

 
Here's what I've been working on the past couple months. @TSiAWD666 turned me onto RaceCapture so I picked up a Pro MK3 with telemetry. I also used Autosport Lab's AnalogX and SensorX to aid in the install, along with an HDMI switch, 7" screen, and two Raspberry Pi's with power supplies.
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To mount the MK3 and the Pi's, I removed the pocket from the center console and fabricated an aluminum bracket. This whole assembly can be removed without taking out the center console, plus I can reach all of the micro SD cards and most of the connectors. I replaced the SRS ECU nuts with threaded standoffs.
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I made another aluminum bracket to mount the screen to the gauge cluster. I had to ditch the clear plastic over the cluster and the rod for resetting the tripometer.
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The GPS and telemetry antennas were installed on the roof. The GPS antenna is magnetic mount with the cable ran behind the windshield weatherstripping, and the telemetry antenna was installed in place of the rear wiper squirter (complete PITA to install).
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I disassembled the HDMI switch and moved the actual switch into the factory rear defroster switch. This lets me switch between ECMLink and RaceCapture.
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I also used the factory cruise control switch on the steering wheel for navigation. I have some future plans to expand its capability to be able to use the up and down buttons as well.

I wired the following signals to RaceCapture:
RPM
Ethanol %
Oil presusre
Boost
Fuel level
IAT
Water pressure
Water temp
Oil temp
Trans temp (no sensor yet but wired for it)
Fuel pressure
Throttle position
Air fuel ratio
Brake pressure (no sensor yet but wired for it)
And it has built in speed, yaw, pitch, GPS, etc.

Here's a short video:


This is a really cool setup with lots of potential between the Pi and the RaceCapture. I have a bunch of warnings set up for things like pressures, temperatures, etc. to make sure I notice if something is going wrong. The gauge setup I had before just didn't catch the eye enough to be useful.

We're heading to VIR this weekend for Hyperfest so I'm looking forward to using it and learning a new track. I'm hopeful the data analysis portion of the RaceCapture will help me to improve my driving :)

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Just realized the video was previously set to Private - should be visible to the public now.
 
It was a long but fun weekend down at VIR for HyperFest. First time on that track for all of us so it was a cool experience. I'll be working on a video of a few of my fastest laps soon. Despite the extremely hot weather, the car managed to stay cool enough (with the boost turned down) to put down some lap times I'm happy with for the first time there. Drove it back on the trailer with only some minor issues to sort before the next track day
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Hey eric nothing else going on with the car.

The RaceCapture was my big upgrade for the winter. I also have a Carbonetics hood on order, so I'm hoping that shows up some day and I can stop this overheating issue while on track. Other than that, I have a few mods little things to do. At the last two track days, the transfer case was puking fluid from the breather. I talked to a few people about this and they recommended putting a long breather hose on it so the fluid has somewhere to expand. And at VIR both of my downpipe bolts fell off during one of the sessions and made my oil temps spike. Luckily, only a little wire loom was charred but the wires and everything else was fine. But I want to figure out a solution to prevent this from happening again - maybe Stage 8 fasteners or similar.

Other than that, the car is in a pretty good spot right now. I'm thinking the next big mod will either be along the lines of a cage and harnesses or aero (wings, splitter, etc.). Those are pretty big steps, though.

2019-06-02 edit: Drained the transfer case today and it was overfilled. So I'm going to skip the breather extension for now, but may revisit it later if needed. For future reference, the breather hole in the transfer case is 0.38" diameter.
 
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Here are a couple of videos of my fastest laps from HyperFest. It's both and cool and frustrating to watch these videos with data now because it shows everywhere where I could have done better. I have so much room to improve the next time out!



 
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