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My fuse box relocation (project log)

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
688
500
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Last I checked, it's -2.6f and -1.6r. I do not have provisions to change the rear camber on my car since I was happy where it ended up after the ride height adjustments.
Thats about where i’m at with camber in the front. Rear I like to be closer to -0.5, but I think the spacers are only getting me to about -1.1 or so.

Attached some pics, my tire to fender static gap is like 1.5 fingers.
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turbosax2

Moderator
4,405
407
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Looks like you're ready to hit the track again! Is that an OG RRE 1" rear sway bar? I've heard about them but never actually seen one.
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
688
500
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Looks like you're ready to hit the track again! Is that an OG RRE 1" rear sway bar? I've heard about them but never actually seen one.
It’s setup fine, but needs refurbishment. Yeah, that is an OG RRE rear bar. I’m looking to replace it actually, but the RM racing bar is out of production at the moment so I wait.

All the pivots need to be refreshed.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,405
407
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
My to-do list from the last update:
  • Check WBO2 calibration
    • Done (it was fine, no adjustment needed)
  • Check brakes, bleed brakes, change caliper temp strip
    • Done (didn't bother putting new strip on)
  • Clean oil out of intake, IC pipes, IC
    • I cleaned the intercooler, pipes, and catch can really good to get all the oil out. There wasn't that much but since they've never been cleaned it was worthwhile. I also cleaned the radiator really good. It was amazing how much track rubber and tiny rocks came out of both the intercooler and radiator!
  • Fix wastegate water fittings, identify cause of overboost
    • I ended up welding aluminum fittings to the original wastegate lower housing. I figured if I messed it up, I still had the replacement Tial sent me. I didn't weld the fitting on the top housing since I only have one and didn't want to ruin it. Welding the first fitting gave me fits and I think I had to take four attempts at it to finally seal it, but I pressure tested both water fittings to over 80psi. As long as the welds don't break, they aren't leaking. For the top housing fitting, I used a dowty seal like Tial recommended as a test to see if they would survive. I reused an old good spare diaphragm.
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  • Drain catch cans, make future draining easier
    • Done. I used some old turbo coolant hoses with bends and a plastic tee. The drain hose drops between the transmission and crossmember stay so I can put a catch pan down without jacking up the car.
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  • Band-aid turbo gasket leak
    • So...this failed miserably haha. I smeared some copper RTV over the leak and during a quick two mile drive with just a little boost it completely blew the RTV out. A chunk of RTV even flew out the hood and stuck to the roof. I had to source a new MLS gasket and replaced it last Friday.
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  • Fix the GoPro - it was turning itself off randomly all weekend so I have no good video
    • Replaced the SD card with a new one since I thought this was the problem. It was not the problem, but I now suspect it's the hard-wired battery replacement cable.
  • Retune SD table if I have time
    • Didn't have time

This past Sunday and yesterday were spent at Shenandoah and Summit Point Main, respectively. Brian and the GT4 were at both days but the Camaro was only there for Sunday. I'll apologize now for the lack of pictures and video, I wasn't very good about that this weekend.

The car was feeling good at Shenandoah and I was putting down some decent laps. I did notice a little spray on the windshield during the first session and found that one of the water lines at the wastegate loosened up a touch and was spritzing. I tightened it up and it was fine, but I kept checking the four wastegate lines the rest of the day just to make sure. I'll have to put some Loctite on them. The welds held up great so that was a success. I forgot to check the dowty seal yet but I didn't have any boost control issues so it's likely in good shape.

I also noticed I was having a power steering leak at the high pressure line coming off the pump. I know it's always seeped just a little but not enough to spray the windshield. This got progressively worse throughout the weekend and I found there is a pinhole leak in it. I can only see it leaking when at full lock, but then it definitely leaks. I tried glue, electrical tape, foil tape, and zip-tied a rag over it. It redirected the leak but didn't help LOL.

I think it was the third session of the day when I got back to the pits and another driver from my group pulled up next to me and told me I was smoking on acceleration. Then my friend told me they heard radio chatter from the corner workers about the same thing. Then a staff member came and told me as well. It was just bad enough they considered black flagging me but didn't. So over lunch I got the car up in the air and found the steering rack coated in power steering fluid. Again, I could only see it leaking at full lock but it gushed pretty good. It appears one (or maybe two) of the o-rings on the crossover tubes has failed. The fluid getting on the downpipe was causing the smoking. I cleaned it up as best I could but really couldn't even attempt a fix at the track. I ran one more session after lunch and it was still leaking so I skipped the last session. I ended up beating my previous lap time of 1:40.69 with a 1:40.20.

So going into Sunday at Main, I have a substantial leak at the rack and a smaller, but just as annoying, leak near the pump. Shenandoah is a very tight course with more steering input than Main so I thought I might be able to get away without too much leakage at Main. I decided to run a session to see what happened. Yup, it still leaked just as much. So I only ended up running two sessions Sunday at Main. Just enough to put in a new best lap time for me and then I called it quits. I got a new best of 1:23.90 beating my previous of 1:28.09. My previous time at Main was my last day on RS4's before getting the AR-1's, so the tires were good for a nice gain.

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So my next move is I really need to get these power steering leaks fixed. I checked with JNZ on a list of parts and they're basically all discontinued. The line near the pump that I really need is $308!!! So I'll be going aftermarket with what I can. My big debate right now is what to do about the rack. I'm almost sure I'll have to take it out to replace the o-rings (that I can't even buy from Mitsubishi anymore), so I'm thinking I might rebuild it while it's out for peace of mind. Or do I just buy a reman rack? And I might as well rebuild the pump too since the rebuild kits are cheap and available from JNZ and it's never been done before. So a bunch of the system will get some love and hopefully not act up again.
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I don't have any more planned track days for the rest of the year. That being said, I have enough brake pads left for maybe a day and tires for a day or two. I'd love to get back to Main again this year to make sure the car is working well so I don't have to have that worry looming over me during the off-season. First step is to get ahold of some p/s parts and then we'll see.

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Tyeler18

Proven Member
2,455
189
Dec 16, 2008
Casa Grande, Arizona
Any interest in ditching the power steering completely for something like a VUE/Prius column conversion? Planning to do a write up after I swap my personal 2g, but Ive been really satisfied with the assist from the prius column I put in a locals 2g. We've yet to have it on the track to gauge assist there but it has a very OE feel on the street without having too much assist as I was worried about. One less fluid to be concerned about is a benefit.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,405
407
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Any interest in ditching the power steering completely for something like a VUE/Prius column conversion? Planning to do a write up after I swap my personal 2g, but Ive been really satisfied with the assist from the prius column I put in a locals 2g. We've yet to have it on the track to gauge assist there but it has a very OE feel on the street without having too much assist as I was worried about. One less fluid to be concerned about is a benefit.

I did think about it very briefly but decided I wasn't willing to be the guinea pig to see how it acts on the track and I just haven't seen enough other feedback on them especially with the steering feel. I don't want to take a step backwards in driving experience just to eliminate one fluid that really shouldn't give me any issues. It is something I could be interested in doing in the future, though, if it proves itself. Do you have any links to more information? I look forward to seeing your writeup!
 

Tyeler18

Proven Member
2,455
189
Dec 16, 2008
Casa Grande, Arizona
I did think about it very briefly but decided I wasn't willing to be the guinea pig to see how it acts on the track and I just haven't seen enough other feedback on them especially with the steering feel. I don't want to take a step backwards in driving experience just to eliminate one fluid that really shouldn't give me any issues. It is something I could be interested in doing in the future, though, if it proves itself. Do you have any links to more information? I look forward to seeing your writeup!
No links on my end. I saw a few posts on the dsm facebook groups and a couple of various other non-dsm cars that I own having success with it and jumped on it. We had plenty of prius to pillage in the local yards. As far as feedback on the street, with a 245/40/17 square tire the assist is really tame. The car has a very small 330?mm sparco steering wheel which was atrocious to try and steer with no power steering. It has a heavier, yet obviously assisted feel to it now. Everything tucked up under the driver kick panel no issue and no major mods required to make space for anything. Hopefully have a guide soon and some track feedback with R-compounds.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,405
407
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
I procrastinated awhile, but finally got the power steering leaks fixed. When I removed the reservoir, I found that the bottom barb had cracked and was slightly leaking. I considered replacing it with a Chase Bays reservoir, but ended up just going with a used stock one to keep it simple. I rebuilt both the pump and rack and installed all new tie rods/boots for good measure. And I replaced both soft sections of the high pressure hose. After getting it all back together, the rack hard lines were still leaking (even with new o-rings) so I had to source a used set of those. In hindsight, I probably should have just purchased a rebuilt rack. None of this work was particularly hard but it took time.
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The ball joint boots on my SPC UCA's were shot, so I installed new ones from SPC (PN 50006003). While doing so, I went ahead and removed the anchors to clean them up and found one was completely separated. Two others showed were showing some cracks so this is something I'll have to address over winter. I'm considering custom polyurethane, delrin, or spherical bushings but have more research to do.
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I also added some Porsche brake ducts.
20210822_133207-jpg.637630


It's about time to put the car up for the winter and work on the to-do list:
  1. Fix UCA bushings
  2. Replace partially melted timing covers
  3. Send front calipers to Essex to be rebuilt
  4. Replace front brake pads/rotor rings
  5. Update RaceCapture with latest firmware/app
  6. Alignment/corner balance
  7. Replace tires (have enough life for one more weekend)
  8. Fix brake MC cap coming loose - this has happened a couple times and I'd like to find a fix
  9. Fix GoPro shutting off
  10. New battery, maybe lighter? Mine is over a decade old and getting weak
  11. And more...
 

Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
7,886
2,499
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
I procrastinated awhile, but finally got the power steering leaks fixed. When I removed the reservoir, I found that the bottom barb had cracked and was slightly leaking. I considered replacing it with a Chase Bays reservoir, but ended up just going with a used stock one to keep it simple. I rebuilt both the pump and rack and installed all new tie rods/boots for good measure. And I replaced both soft sections of the high pressure hose. After getting it all back together, the rack hard lines were still leaking (even with new o-rings) so I had to source a used set of those. In hindsight, I probably should have just purchased a rebuilt rack. None of this work was particularly hard but it took time.
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The ball joint boots on my SPC UCA's were shot, so I installed new ones from SPC (PN 50006003). While doing so, I went ahead and removed the anchors to clean them up and found one was completely separated. Two others showed were showing some cracks so this is something I'll have to address over winter. I'm considering custom polyurethane, delrin, or spherical bushings but have more research to do.
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I also added some Porsche brake ducts.
20210822_133207-jpg.637630


It's about time to put the car up for the winter and work on the to-do list:
  1. Fix UCA bushings
  2. Replace partially melted timing covers
  3. Send front calipers to Essex to be rebuilt
  4. Replace front brake pads/rotor rings
  5. Update RaceCapture with latest firmware/app
  6. Alignment/corner balance
  7. Replace tires (have enough life for one more weekend)
  8. Fix brake MC cap coming loose - this has happened a couple times and I'd like to find a fix
  9. Fix GoPro shutting off
  10. New battery, maybe lighter? Mine is over a decade old and getting weak
  11. And more...
Great photos on that brake ducting by the way. Thanks for sharing that write up Eric.
 
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