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my first A/T built car

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Man Ive been wanting to do one of these for years. Ultimate sleeper. Clean ride.
 
I knew about the expo as I remember them when they were new and cruising the streets of tampa. It was Leon Rietman who got me hooked last year with his circle track drag videos. i just had to have one. what I wasnt aware of was how dang nice these cars drive and how useful they are. even my wife likes to drive this 21 year old car more than our 2008 mazda 5.
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yeah i built an awd one 5 yrs ago or so
i loved it it was so comfy and easy to see out of, easy to get in and out of, mine was fully loaded. drive through anything in the winter with the tall winter tires it had on it
 
got head ready. nicely ported on exhaust side. mild clean up on intake side. loaded with evo 8 hardware and evo 3 cams.
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started assembly on block. got new balance shaft bearings pressed in. pretty intense job in itself. I made special tool to use on my press. hard to get them in and not distort them. then fitting evo 8 oil squirters. the bases have to be shaved or they will snap the housing and ruin the squirter. these were then re-pointed to give optimum squirt to underside of piston. i know a lot of people like to eliminate squirters on a rebuild. I saw yes if engine is going in drag car. but HECK no for a street car. they serve very important job of stabilizing crown temp. i dont build motors without them.
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next up was fitting crankshaft. turns out this crank has a good bit of use on it. rods came up .002 mains were a tad over .003. thrust at .0055. while these clearances are fine for drag engine, i likely would have used HX bearings on rods to get them at .003 as well. But this is a street car that will see miles. So I ordered -.025mm mains. most people dont know these exist. these are stock bearings that are made tighter by .001. this will get my main clearance down to .002. better clearance for what I am doing here. I am a little weary running a non nitrided crank. but was just too lazy to send it off. this will be first 7 bolt in ten years I have built with stock non hardened crank. While i am pretty confident in my tuning skills to not run engine into detonation i am worried about my day ruined with crankwalk. So I bought a can of molykote off ebay to coat the thrust surface on the center main. I will likely use it on the piston skirts as well since I have it cant hurt. reading pdf files on this stuff is interesting. this stuff can be used to coat piston rings!. better seal, longer life, less friction. hmmmm
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took me a while to decide how to get built motor in car with the least amount of risk. there is nothing worse for a new block then getting it in and it not start right up. so I considered option A: converting car to DOHC first. turbo conversion second, shortblock last after its running turbo. option B: install shortblock first. get it running in stock form. then convert to DOHC, then turbo. then there is option C: install built block, DOHC head at same time. but get it started on the original ECU, distributer and injectors. then convert to turbo after engine is in and broken in proper. So I am opting for option C. it seems like best option for me.
 
very nice find!
i put one of these vans together this september. it is a 92 plymouth colt wagon awd mt 6bolt 2.0l 2g pistons 1g rods linkv3. i love it. still running 14b and stock exhaust which i am planning to make full 3" this christmas break.

how have you managed to do lsd in the front and back?
 
from what I have read the front diffs are same for 5spd and auto. I have a jdm factory lsd for front. I have done research for rear lsd. based on axle length the only lsd that fits rear is evo 3 lsd and axles..
 
evo 3 cams are bigger than dsm cams. they have .040 more lift. when I installed fp1 cams for evo 1 cams it was big "mod day" disappointment. could hardly tell there was cam swap. this car needs to idle perfect down to 600rpm like it does stock. otherwise drivability will be ruined. from what I have seen on Internet on other platforms the 6758 works very well on stock blocks. seen 460whp through stock ecotec 2.0. cant imagine that motor more efficient than a 2.2 4g63, but I guess we will see. goal for car is 380-400whp through the auto and bone stock drivability.
 
I also have evo 3 cams :)
What rods do you use for this 2.2 stroker?
 
zero 7 bolt cranks are hardened from factory. this includes evo 8 cranks even though common articles will report they are hardened. simple file test shows all 7 bolt cranks are just plain soft as far as surface goes.

the crank I am using is from the diesel 2.0 chariot. 4d68. its a beefy 37lb 93mm stroke crank. I choose 147mm rod length. this gave best option for shelf stock 2.0 pistons. I choose a 86.5mm wiseco 2.0 piston. compression calcs to 9.4

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What is the identification mark on the evo 3 cams ?

Great build Jerry, as usual always very interesting to read and full of info even for a permanent novice like me!
 
I am not sure there is one. the head here is a low mile evo 3 head. I verified by measuring cam lobes. just a quick north/south east/west measurement. evo 3-8 cams will be same lift. the dsm cams have 1mm less lift. dont know how the duration stacks up. I suspect they are around 260, where a dsm checks in at 256.
 
Hello all,
I am new to this site. I have also been away from the DSM scene for a while. I am replying to this post because, i am buying a 1994 Expo LRV tomorrow, and have been researching things I want to do to it. This is LITERALLY THE only recent page i have found with current info on what I'm wanting to do.
So the car is 94 LRV, with 4G64 and Auto Trans FWD. I want to make AWD with Manual Transmission. I could go either way on the engine 4G63T or keep the 4G64, however, don't know nearly as much about the 4G64 as I do the 4G63 as far as swapping heads and crankshaft and what not.
94awdcoupe- I have many questions for you about the LRV if you would please fill me in on some items of interest I have.
I have a 92 Laser AWD. Will the drive train of my Laser bolt up to the Expo? Particularly the Rear end?
I also have watched that video of the guy driving his Summit wagon around the circle drags and got me excited, I know the older year Expo LRV models had AWD as an option, so I'm hoping the body/chassis is the same as the Eagle units and will have "predrilled" holes and can accept an AWD system.
Anyway, all help would be much appreciated.
Wade Stanion
 
For your keyless entry, did the van come with it or did you add it after? Did it work? I am constantly frustrated with the electric lock system on my van. On the Galant, when you turn the key all the locks open. Its so nice. Stupid van system i open drivers door lock and then have to reach in to the dash to hit the button to unlock it. Passenger door same story. And i can't lock all the doors until the slider door is closed, and then i hit the dash button and close my drivers door. You can totally lock your keys in the car this way. I want keyless but i don't even know if mine is wired for it.

And you have side door speakers? I need that setup, mine are factory black offs carpeted. Two four inch speakers in the front is not enough and they are aimed towards your knees anyways. Mine didn't even come with a factory dash clock, i had to get it off eBay from Spain! Thank Mitsubishi for selling the Expos all over the world.
 
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