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My dsm journey, sry my typing skills are bad

Posted by sytherstrike, May 22, 2020

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  1. sytherstrike

    sytherstrike Probationary Member

    27
    5
    Joined Mar 19, 2013
    Flint, Michigan
    driveshaft frontrear.jpg driveshaft joint.jpg driveshaft rear.jpg I just thought I would share my journey, that started 10 years ago. I found a 1990 eagle talon with 65k for sale. It was in a wreck and didn't run. The wreck caused the old owner to install a new trans and attempt to delete the turbo. I bought the car, brought it home put in fresh gas and plugs, it fired up. I installed the b14 turbo the previous owner bought, never installed, on the car. I went for a ride, had the crank pully fly off the side of the engine and smashed all the valves. I bought stainless valves off ebay, heli coiled one spark plug hole that got stabbed hard by a broke valve and put it all back together. Went for another ride, found the car pulled hard to the right, as in I'm headed for a front yard somewhere. I than bought a 91 eclipse fwd with no engine trans. I swapped the engine and trans over, plus drilled every spot weld on the front of both cars. I removed every bracket that was required for the awd set up and put it on the fwd, sorry no pics of that, trust me it was a lot of work. I than realized you can't run a awd trans in fwd mode, unless you weld the diff, easy fix. After putting some miles on the car decided I wanted awd. I bought a 8.8 ford explorer rear end. I went to tractor supply and bought tractor end links. I than cut the end links in half and welded 1 inch water pipe in between to lengthen. I bought a aluminum drive shaft from a salvage yard, not sure what it came off of but was ford. I than laid it under the car got measurements went to a local shop said I need it shortened x amount and the mistu spindle install on the end. They lathed out the inside of the ford spindle inserted the mistu one than shortened the shaft to where it needed to be. After that I finished building all the brackets for the car and stuffed the rear end under, welded everything in place. Also welded the rear diff. The car is really fun in straight line, has an extremely bad turning radius.

    Than one day decided to crank the boost, to scare my wife a bit, and at around 120 mph had a cloud of smoke billow out from the car. We were 2 miles from the house did everything I could to keep the motor running, but made it home. There was so much smoke you could look back and see every turn I made. After inspecting the engine, thought that I just blew the turbo oil seals. There was a bunch of oil in the intake and all throughout. I bought an ebay turbo t3/t4 kit, installed pulled it out on the road and found no matter how much boost it made the car was like driving a geo metro. I pulled the cylinder head and found the turbo was fine, I'd melted a piston.

    Over the next 9 years I would buy parts to rebuild, and do small bits of work to it here and there. I bought weisco pistons from a shop for cheap, because they'd been sitting on a shelf for a long time. I than bought eagle rods. When this corona thing hit, to keep my sanity, I started working on my car. I got it all back together, fired it up. After a bit of tuning in my driveway, my son and I pulled out on the road and went for a nice easy drive. Every time I'd get around 4k rpms the car would start to buck hard. Check data logs found I was making no boost. Pulled the ebay turbo off and found thrust bearing failure. The comp wheel ground hard into the housing. I have since than bought a rebuild 6262 and a few other parts, but hope to have the car fully ready this summer. Also feel free to speak your mind about my adventure, I take criticism very well, and in a lot of cases appreciate it.

    undercar rear.jpg stance.jpg rollout.jpg meltypiston.jpg install newpistons.jpg homebuiltrear.jpg engine view.jpg dsm rear end test fit.jpg closeupmelty.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
  2. Ludachris

    Ludachris Founder & Zookeeper

    7,261
    1,461
    Joined Nov 12, 2001
    Roseville, California
    No criticism on the journey... your typing on the other hand (I'm kidding, couldn't help it since you put it in the title).

    Sounds like you're on the road back to getting it running, and better than before. Take it slow and do it right. ;)
     

    Street Build 9K  0

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (sold)
    manual · 2G DSM

    Road Race Build 8K  10  23

    1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    435.0 whp · 399.2 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  3. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

    6,668
    2,913
    Joined Nov 14, 2013
    Independence, Kansas
    Wow, what an adventure. Glad to have you on the forum, Welcome! It's been a long road back, looks like maybe a "tad" bit too much timing maybe????
    You are doing a good job of bringing back the dead, keep your journey moving forward and as for any help that you need. The car is looking pretty good to me!
    Make sure it has a good knock sensor!
    Marty
     

    Street Build 5K  29

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    14.74 @ 117.04 · 1G DSM

    1K  14

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM

    834  18

    1967 Chevrolet Camaro RS
    rwd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 1K  7

    1998 Eagle Talon TSi
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 6K  14  25

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    13.620 @ 108.460 · 1G DSM
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  4. sytherstrike

    sytherstrike Probationary Member

    27
    5
    Joined Mar 19, 2013
    Flint, Michigan
    I run a megasquirt and don't have a
    I run a megasquirt and didn't build the knock sensor circuit, been thinking about doing that. I believe it was three things, too much timing, not enough fuel and pushing the little b14 too hard. I hate to say, before that piston melted that car pulled the hardest it ever had. I felt like I should have lifted but wow was that a good time!! That is also the day I learned my wife has really bony knuckles, she punched me and my whole arm was swore.
     
  5. pat white

    pat white Proven Member

    119
    41
    Joined Jun 10, 2017
    West Bay, NL, Canada
    as long as you have good wrenching skills ...and you do ...you just like to take it to the limit LOL (oh my wife is a kicker ...hard on the shins )
     

    Street Build 347  1

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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    1990TSIAWDTALON likes this.
  6. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

    6,668
    2,913
    Joined Nov 14, 2013
    Independence, Kansas
    I tuned my knock sensor "out" on my 92 auto car when I first got it, as I couldn't believe that I was "really" seeing knock at 5* of timing. Went out for a spin with the new 16g and FP mani on her, boy....she ran better than she had EVER ran.......that one time. Limped home on 2 1/2 cylinders. Burned 2 valves, melted the side of a piston, just like yours (but not THAT drastic) and melted 2 plugs, that's why I commented about the knock sensor. I think I would put that back in the system for protection (as I re-calibrated mine so it WOULD read knock again). I never will do that again!
     

    Street Build 5K  29

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    14.74 @ 117.04 · 1G DSM

    1K  14

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM

    834  18

    1967 Chevrolet Camaro RS
    rwd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 1K  7

    1998 Eagle Talon TSi
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 6K  14  25

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    13.620 @ 108.460 · 1G DSM
    Loading...
  7. sytherstrike

    sytherstrike Probationary Member

    27
    5
    Joined Mar 19, 2013
    Flint, Michigan
    Thanks for the input, going to figure what it will take to add a knock sensor.
     
    1990TSIAWDTALON likes this.
  8. lasershark

    lasershark Proven Member

    1,584
    221
    Joined May 17, 2013
    over yander, Idaho
    I wouldn't mind seeing a few more pics of that 8.8 set up just for curiosity, not many that have done that!
     

    3K  5

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
    Loading...
    pat white likes this.
  9. sytherstrike

    sytherstrike Probationary Member

    27
    5
    Joined Mar 19, 2013
    Flint, Michigan
    top down axle brackets.jpg front view ladder bars.jpg top down axle brackets.jpg front view ladder bars.jpg top down axle brackets.jpg front view ladder bars.jpg
    Its not as hard as you might think to make up some ladder bars. Most of the brackets where made from scrap metal my friend had laying around his shop. The problem we ran into was, when we'd turn up his Lincoln welder to get the metal hot enough we'd end up tripping the circuit breaker. So I had my friend with a blow torch heat the metal and while I was welding he would follow me along. The longest part of putting it together was measuring. We spent hours just figuring how we'd get the axle in straight and than be able to weld the brackets on and align up. Where the front of the ladder bars go is the spot in front of the rear seat where there is a heavy seam on the car. The reason I put an 8.8 in this car is because it was a fwd. I pulled the awd rear axle out of my awd car and slid it under this car and decided that wasn't going to happen. Somebody out there probably could have fab it up to work but my I just couldn't see modifying the body that much to make it work. The ladder bars ended up being less invasive.

    One thing to add, having larger brakes in the rear makes the car nose dive. Its not a bad thing, just feels like your towing a trailer and the trailer brakes are turned up just a bit too high.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
  10. lasershark

    lasershark Proven Member

    1,584
    221
    Joined May 17, 2013
    over yander, Idaho
    well good work, I'm sure others have done it before at some point but this is the first time I have seen it. (while maintaining AWD/ drag cars don't count ha! )
     

    3K  5

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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