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My compound turbo set-up

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99GST racer

I see we have similar interest I once looked into this as well however all of the SAE documents and BW (BorgWarner) documents I've reviewed say nothing about the HP turbine being inadequate in size as long as it was
properly wastegated the whole purpose was fuel efficiency, emission and a broader power band that carried on through out the rev range.

I'll join you soon in the DSM two stage turbocharging world.


Mitsusbishi has done this on 2 strokes engines it was in one document I reviewed .
 
I agree. The doubters make me laugh. Here's a video showing it working pretty well on my car last week. Paul is the original here, I got the idea from him, but I had to try it myself and see what would happen. So far the results are very promising, and I can't wait to see how his car does.

This is with a 50 trim and a T6 75mm S400. Boost curve goes vertical at 4000 rpm, I leave the line with ~30 psi at 5000 rpm, no more nitrous.

YouTube - RWD Talon, first two runs on Compound Turbos

I missed this post.

So much for the individual that said you can do the same thing on nitrous with a big single. Now it's on a purpose built drag car saving him money and his time getting his nitrous tank(s) refilled.


Bringing a diesel practice to a gasoline community.

Innovation at work :thumb: .
 
Nasty. The world without imagination is a dead one. Thank you, this thread is a lot more fun to read without all the kids saying "I bet it blows up" as if you threw ebay turbo's in or something ROFL

Keep it up, I would love for these kits to be available someday at an afordable price. I'm tired of hondas. :hellyeah:
 
Astonishingly, nothing was wrong with it. It actually looks really good. I did, however, discover than my tranny was partially misaligned with the crank. The rear section was not fully seated over the dowel pin. I'm not sure if that was the issue, or what issues even arise from misalignment. There's no abnormal wearing on the clutch disk, pressure plate, or flywheel. But off-idle and low rpm engagement really sucked. After seeing the clutch, I find it almost impossible to blame any of the engagement issues on the clutch.

You can break the clutch disc because the splines of the transmission are still going thru the disc and it's at an angle so the center of the clutch is taking a LOT of abuse. Had the center of one get totally rip out on me once and left me stranded on the side of a highway because my bell housing broke around the top 2 bolts and so of course it was sagging and at an angle. Also, the shaft on the transmission got mushroomed out pretty good. Can definitely do some damage if driven that way for awhile. And if you think about it, the tob is riding on the pressure plate at an angle as well and would cause the engagement issues because it's not riding on all of the fingers of the pressure plate at the same time. Can break the pressure plate this way as well. Just so you know....for future reference.
 
You can break the clutch disc because the splines of the transmission are still going thru the disc and it's at an angle so the center of the clutch is taking a LOT of abuse. Had the center of one get totally rip out on me once and left me stranded on the side of a highway because my bell housing broke around the top 2 bolts and so of course it was sagging and at an angle. Also, the shaft on the transmission got mushroomed out pretty good. Can definitely do some damage if driven that way for awhile. And if you think about it, the tob is riding on the pressure plate at an angle as well and would cause the engagement issues because it's not riding on all of the fingers of the pressure plate at the same time. Can break the pressure plate this way as well. Just so you know....for future reference.

So is there a procedure to ensure the tranny is aligned properly? Also, is there a way to check the alignment after the tranny has been installed?

Tom
 
Yes, make sure it's mated flat against the tranny. Lol. I've had the stock bolts back out on me and kept doing so no matter how much I tightened it or even if I used thread lock on it. If ya have problems with the bolts backing out, I'd suggesting getting new ones from the dealer (threads can get worn and won't be as tight of a fit). Did that and torqued to spec and it solved my issues. One thing I've wanted to do as well is try to find studs (like the exhaust manifold studs) to screw into the block so I could just slide the tranny over the studs and use locking nuts (the kind that look like someone hit the nut with a hammer on one side) to keep them from backing out. The bottom rear is the biggest one to be overlooked though. Really have to take a good look back there to make sure it gets over that dowel pin cause I've seen people not tighten it all the way down plenty of times.
 
So common sense basically. ;)

I'll be back from my vacation on the 21st, and the first thing I'll do is check all the bolts to make sure the tranny is flush. The I will remove the tranny to replace my clutch which has broken fingers (maybe even popped springs).

Tom
 
Nevertheless, I'm going to put in an ACT 2600 pressure plate and a clutchnet sprung-hub, 6-puck disk in it this time. Not that the Fidanza wasn't doing the job, I just think this new combination should be better suited for the torque of my current turbo set-up.

You will like this combination. My 6pick sprung hub ez lock from clutchnet has served me well. If this is a street machine, you'll be happy. The clutch disck functions like stock in traffic; not much bouncing at all. I feel none. And holds up to some serious abuse. The springs are really held in good. They won't WANT to bend out, and thus they won't wear nearly as bad. I've had some good success with this on my FWD car that is beaten badly on the streest with testing with fast spooling high power turbos, and with VOILENT, windshield wiper starting wheel hop which mucks clutch disk hubs bad, with all the stop-start-stop. And it's still in great shape.
 
Paul's car has been down for the majority of the past month or so. He's had to cancel a dyno appointment twice so far and we are trying to make sure the car is perfect before scheduling another dyno.

He's been battling some trans/ clutch issues (all that low end tq finally getting to it), and just when we though it had been fixed, on the wg recirc tubes cracked and started leaking and caused slow spool, lost power, etc. The setups been pulled off and is off getting braced and rewelded. We hope to have the car finished again soon at 40ish psi and get it on the dyno, and hopefully we both are able to get a nice day to hit up the track yet this year.
 
Sucks to hear. Hope he doesn't start having a bunch of issues out of it. That'd suck after all the hard work that's been put into it. Of course I'm been there myself as well.
 
What would be the result if the compressor housings faced the opposite direction?

i.e. little turbo inlet faced Pass. and big turbo inlet faced driver. If you ran Speed density or a GM maf would it work.
 
I've just read a few pages and got a question and I'm sorry if its been asked and has an answer! But won't the big turbo out boost the smaller turbo? And isn't that bad? And bmw and mercades have don't this aswell also with a supercharger and turbo its a pretty neat setup! And I will take notes from this as I am also looking at doing this once I convert mine to a drag car! Well done and I will be watching this thread.
 
I've just read a few pages and got a question and I'm sorry if its been asked and has an answer! But won't the big turbo out boost the smaller turbo? And isn't that bad? And bmw and mercades have don't this aswell also with a supercharger and turbo its a pretty neat setup! And I will take notes from this as I am also looking at doing this once I convert mine to a drag car! Well done and I will be watching this thread.

I think I can answer you question if I'm reading it correctly. Yes a larger turbo will flow more therefore "out boost" a smaller version. Normally this would not be ideal in say an auto x car because you would never really reach full boost. But in his setup he has 2 turbo's. This will in effect allow one to help spool the other.
 
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