My car has been sitting in the cold for 10 days should i put a bottle of fuel additve

[talontsiboy24]

My car has been sitting for 10days out in the cold without being started but it has more then a half tank in it 93 octane will it be ok or should i throw a bottle of heet or stp in the tank to make sure all the moisture comes out? Do those fuel additives really work i mean which ones are the best to use?

My motor is rebuilt with 33k miles on it so the previous owner says but i think mobil 1 syn 10w-30 should be fine yr round i was thinkin to go thicker in summer time but people said cause of the low mileage theres no reason to go any heavier then 10w-30? I wanted to bump it up to 15w-50 mobil 1 syn in summer time at least since i do get on it but im not running a big turbo just a big 16g but with high boost for now and the motor is pretty much stock. The previous owner ran 5w-30 i guess cause the motor was rebuilt there was no need for such thick oil he said and i noticed when i switched to thicker like 10w-30 i got longer tick at startup so i dunno? As for now though its winter time so i wanna put the best in it for good startups but really good protection as i do go get it on still in winter.

Is mobil 1 syn 10w-30 good enough for winter time like even under 20f? My car fires up right away but i wanna be sure that the oil is flowing fast enough and i get the best protection cause temps do drop out here sometimes below zero.

What about tire pressure for awd with all season tires in winter time 34psi front and 32psi rear? My car door label says 32front 29rear but thats what stock calls for with 16" wheels but i now have 17" wheels and tire size is 225/45-17.

 

[Spike420A]

i live in idaho FREAKING COLD and i leave my 1st gen and 2nd parked all winter just a battery chage and i leave them at like 1/4 of a tank and they do just fine

 

[talontsiboy24]

Last week temps were in the single digits i cold started my car up it fired up right away and then it ran and sounded like cams and died then i fired it back up and it struggled but eventually stayed running and was ok as it warmed up so I drove it around for a while and then threw a bottle of iso heet in the tank and drove it some more and yea a big difference cause now my car stays running even if it stays outside in the single digit temps so i must of had moisture build up or i think my fuel lines froze up even though i had a near full tank that day. Iso heet is good stuff.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Heat is a great tool when it is necessary. Most likely you either have an existing issue causing moisture to enter into your gas tank or it was moisture that was already present in your tank, or a completely unrelated component like the ECU temp sensor wire busted or providing a bad signal to the ECU. If your car continues to rely on the Heat to operate properly after a couple tank fulls, I would suspect other issues or a ton of water in that tank haha.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Heat is a great tool when it is necessary. Most likely you either have an existing issue causing moisture to enter into your gas tank or it was moisture that was already present in your tank, or a completely unrelated component like the ECU temp sensor wire busted or providing a bad signal to the ECU. If your car continues to rely on the Heat to operate properly after a couple tank fulls, I would suspect other issues or a ton of water in that tank haha.

Yea well im glad its fine now i mean i do have new plugs n wires and alot of new maintanence parts so it probably was the moisture.

 

[DSM1G90]

and i leave them at like 1/4 of a tank and they do just fine

Hope you throw some HEET in the tank when you get them out for the run...I know how major cold it gets over there (I'm from I.F.) in E. Idaho where I did the best to keep the tanks towards the full side to prevent moisture condensaton for it's not funny when you have a gas line freeze up and have to get some sort of heat under the car to thaw out the gas line.

 

[knochgoon24]

My car has been sitting for 10days out in the cold without being started but it has more then a half tank in it 93 octane will it be ok or should i throw a bottle of heet or stp in the tank to make sure all the moisture comes out? Do those fuel additives really work i mean which ones are the best to use?

Your car is fine.

I heard redline SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner is good?

Don't worry. You don't need it. You have 3 filters before the fuel comes out your injectors. If you injectors are clogged, you better be doing more than just dumping a bottle of injector cleaner in.

I dont think they are but couldnt hurt right? Last time i started it there was moisture comming out the exhaust so im thinkin now that its been sitting even longer theres gonna be alot? Plus its winter out here dont u think its good to throw a additive in to prevent the fuel lines from freezing up and water?

That normal. Typical byproduct of hydrocarbon combustion. Since your exhaust is cold, it's cooling off enough to condense before it exits the tail pipe. (The Mustangs have a low spot on the exhaust. My friend's Camaro did the same thing.)

well im afraid my wideband o2 sensor gonna get damaged from the moisture thats gonna flow out the exhaust and cause its been sitting for 10days i wanna make sure moisture gets out the system to.

Your wideband has it's own heater in it. The sensor inside it gets very hot (800°C). The exhaust is plenty hot enough there to keep it from condensing on the wideband. As long as your wideband is installed correctly (on the top side of 9 and 3 o'clock) it will be fine.

The temps were in the 20s and teens those 10days its been sitting do u guys think maybe the ignition wires or other wires developed cracks in them?

God I hope not. We'd all be going through a dozen sets of wires a year.

I let it run for about 23min and then i drove around town and put some more gas in it is that good enough or should i drive it more?

It's fine. You got the engine up to temp. That pretty much rids the engine of water.

What about tire flat spots can 10days do it or the car would have to sit longer to develope flat spots?

Yes your tire may have gotten flat spots. Mine develop them when it sits for 2 days. They're just a small nuisance for the first mile or so then the tires heat up and they smooth out. Nothing to worry about.

35psi in winter isnt that a lil much for all season tires? I thought lower pressure gives better ground contact in winter? I was thinkin like 32psi in all four? But im on 17" rims with 225/45-17 tires...

You don't seem to believe what I told you in that other thread of yours. Lower pressure will only help to a certain extent. After that they'll start to cup. You'll risk the chance of hydroplaning in the slush and melt. You just need to experiment with the pressures.

Also is it even worth the bother of adding heet to the tank to remove moisture out if the tank always stays past the middle mark in winter time?

It's really not worth it unless you buy crappy gas. Gasoline sold now days has a winterized additive pack added to it.

Last week temps were in the single digits i cold started my car up it fired up right away and then it ran and sounded like cams and died then i fired it back up and it struggled but eventually stayed running and was ok as it warmed up so I drove it around for a while and then threw a bottle of iso heet in the tank and drove it some more and yea a big difference cause now my car stays running even if it stays outside in the single digit temps so i must of had moisture build up or i think my fuel lines froze up even though i had a near full tank that day. Iso heet is good stuff.

You think single digits is cold? Just talk to some of the Canadians on this site. You didn't have ice in your fuel line. Your car wouldn't have started if that was the case. Sometimes when it's cold, it takes the ECU a second to adjust to the temperature. Stalling out once really isn't a big issue.

Not to sound demeaning, but is this your first car? I'm glad to see someone wanting to take such preventative measures with their car (most of these cars need more than they see). Cars aren't and exact science. What works for one person may not work for another.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Heat is a great tool when it is necessary. Most likely you either have an existing issue causing moisture to enter into your gas tank or it was moisture that was already present in your tank, or a completely unrelated component like the ECU temp sensor wire busted or providing a bad signal to the ECU. If your car continues to rely on the Heat to operate properly after a couple tank fulls, I would suspect other issues or a ton of water in that tank haha.

You think its because im running mobil 1 syn 10w-30 and its thick in winter?

 

[DSM1G90]

mobil 1 syn 10w-30 and its thick in winter

Not as thick if it's 20w50 in that oil pan and it suddenly got cold - good luck in getting that car started with that 'molasses' in the crankcase.

If you're gonna start worrying about thick oil syndromes, put a trouble light with a 100w clear bulb in it and place it under and right next to the oil pan at nights to keep the oil warm.

I run the same oil and have no probs with my ride in cold weather. Cars are tougher than you think.

Automakers, these last 80 years, have constructed cars to be ready for any sort of weather conditions. Thus, give them credit for what they know and give the car a chance to prove itself.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Not as thick if it's 20w50 in that oil pan and it suddenly got cold - good luck in getting that car started with that 'molasses' in the crankcase.

If you're gonna start worrying about thick oil syndromes, put a trouble light with a 100w clear bulb in it and place it under and right next to the oil pan at nights to keep the oil warm.

I run the same oil and have no probs with my ride in cold weather. Cars are tougher than you think.

Automakers, these last 80 years, have constructed cars to be ready for any sort of weather conditions. Thus, give them credit for what they know and give the car a chance to prove itself.

Yea my gsx didnt wanna fire up with mobil 1 syn 15w-50 in the dead cold winter time but when i eventually got it started i went with a lighter weight oil just for winter and it helped alot.

Since we do drop in the single digits and negatives out here i think i wanna go with 5w-40 or 0w-50 mobil 1 syn what do u guys think? the first number doesnt really matter right as long as i have the 40 in there for protection?

 

[DSM1G90]

the "W" means winter. No, stick with 10w30.

That low number is more important than the high number. When you get that oil hot, the higher number is the thickness at the hot temperature.

You shove 0w in that crankcase, the main bearings will horribly suffer since there is very little viscosity to protect the main crank bearings. You need that viscosity to protect the rod bearings and other bearings. Plus, it'll highly damage the turbo bearings as well since the turbo shaft actually "floats" in the bearings, and thin oil will kill the turbo shaft.

Plus, that "0w" oil is for motors that are built with very tight tolerances. The 4G63 doesn't have those tight tolerances, thus needs the slightly thicker "W" oil, like the 10w, or even 15w oils.

Oil needs to flow quick through our motors when hot to pull the heat from the block and associated components and get it back down to the oil pan to cool off some - not sluggish with heavier oils. Plus, with turbo, you definitely want to get the flow quick and get the heat off the turbo and back into the pan.

If you're on the track or drag where you're gonna be doing high revs and a very hot turbo, then the 50w is what you will need.

Just follow the specs for the 4G63 which requires the 10w30 oil.

-DSM

 

[Tyeler18]

the "W" means winter. No, stick with 10w30. When you get that oil hot, the higher number is the thickness at the hot temperature.

You shove 0w in that crankcase, the main bearings will horribly suffer since there is very little viscosity to protect the main crank bearings. You need that viscosity to protect the rod bearings and other bearings. Plus, it'll highly damage the turbo bearings as well since the turbo shaft actually "floats" in the bearings, and thin oil will kill the turbo shaft.

Oil needs to flow quick through our motors when hot to pull the heat from the block and get it down to the oil pan to cool off some - not sluggish with heavier oils. Plus, with turbo, you definitely want to get the flow quick and get the heat off the turbo and back into the pan.

If you're on the track or drag where you're gonna be doing high revs and a very hot turbo, then the 50w is what you will need.

Just follow the specs for the 4G63 which requires the 10w30 oil.

-DSM

You need to do some more research on oil before giving out advice. There is no damage running a 0w. Like you said, the w stands for "winter" which means that the lower the "w" the better it will flow at low temps. The second number is for hot temps. A 5w-30 is good for like -20 and 115 temps (if I remember right), meaning you should be fine cold starting up to -20 and it will protect up to 115 ambient temps.

I personally run a 0w-20 in all of my DSM's in the winter time and a 5w-30 in the summer. Never had one fail to start up on me and have never had a bearing problem.

 

[DSM1G90]

Then, this could lead to debate then from other owners who testifys of the need of the 10+w oils then.

Prob why you had no probs is that your motors have been rebuilt with tight tolerances then along with the turbo.

I go on facts from the manufacturers themselves since they built the 4G63 and put together the recommended specs for the motors that they built, and have seen results from running too thin of oil in a motor that recommends the other.

I don't have the green lining in my pockets that most other users have (or think they have) to do motor rebuilds due to not following factory recommendations. Thus, I like keeping my green as long as possible and not spend it on expenses that didn't need to come.

Thus is simply why I'm recommending to the OP with these recommended oil weights, for it seems that he's a newbie in this field with his tonnage of questions and concerns and only trying to help the OP to prevent any added expense that the OP may have (unless, the OP has rich parents or money in the bank to spend like wildfire..if so, then all what I have said is void and I'll leave him to face the consequences due to his choice.) since he cares for his car.

 

[knochgoon24]

I run a 5w-40 all winter. It gets into the singe digits here and I don't have any issues.

I've ran 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30, and now 5w-40 just to see how it affects my oil pressure.

Anything -20 is too thin. Period. I drained it the next day. The oil pressure at warm idle on my car was too low.

All the -30's were about the same. The lower the winter rating, the lower my oil pressure was on start up. It's always over 75psi at cold idle. But on hot summer days, it would thin and my oil pressure would be too low for comfort at idle. I have a tired engine.

The 5w-40 is what finally gave me the correct oil pressures when my engine was warm. Even when it's cold, the numbers are barely higher than the 5w or 10w-30 oil pressures.

I don't recommend running a 0w-20 oil in our cars. That's pretty thin.

 

[DSM1G90]

ya, that 0w/20 is almost like the thickness of a milk shake.

Might flow real quick, but is that gonna protect?

I know about tired motors, for I have one as well. But, the one day will come when I can get it rebuilt , but for now, I do my best to keep it running as good as it can be.

 

[talontsiboy24]

my motor is rebuilt with 33k miles on it so the previous owner says but i think mobil 1 syn 10w-30 should be fine yr round i was thinkin to go thicker in summer time but people said cause of the low mileage theres no reason to go any heavier then 10w-30? I wanted to bump it up to 15w-50 mobil 1 syn in summer time at least since i do get on it but im not running a big turbo just a big 16g for now and the motor is pretty much stock. The previous owner ran 5w-30 i guess cause the motor was rebuilt there was no need for such thick oil he said and i noticed when i switched to thicker like 10w-30 i got longer tick at startup so i dunno? As for now though its winter time so i wanna put the best in it for good startups but really good protection as i do go wot sometimes now.

 

[1LE]

I believe you may overthinking things a bit. If you've got a known issue, you may need to do something special to handle it, but otherwise not. The manual specifies the weight of oil. I can say that oil pressure still comes up fine (and the engine doesn't blow up) in -17F cold soaked starts with the regular 10w-30. At that temp, 5w-30 is recommended, but I don't change the oil just for the couple of below zero days I might drive the car. The power steering pump and fuel pump were screaming for a few seconds, which was a bit disconcerting though. My car has a lot of seriously hard track miles on it in as much as 100F weather in the Summer with the 10w-30 too. FWIW.