DroppedMitsu
15+ Year Contributor
- 85
- 2
- Jan 24, 2008
-
Vacaville,
California
I posted most of this from the build I had on another site, so multiple post will be converted into one big one sorry.
Anyways here is my 1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Macrocab pickup. Got her for $750 all stock with a blown head gasket, fixed that then the motor blew. Decided to swap in my 6 bolt 4g63t that I had from my previous single cab mitsu pickup that I had already swapped, but decided to get rid of actual truck due to it being in not so nice condition. So here I am, I have been a member on the site for years now since I started my first truck swap.
I already had this engine in my previous truck so most of the major fab work has already been completed.
List of parts needed and/or mods to complete swap that I used to complete swap:
*4g63t and all manifolds/sensors/etc.. from 90-92(preferably) Eclipse/Talon/Laser
*Engine wiring harness, ECU, and MPI Relay from same vehicle
*Shorten/Lengthen engine harness wires as necessary to reach their new position and power/ground the ecu/mpi relay
*KM132 4 or 5 speed manual transmission from late 80's 2.0l Mighty Max/Ram50 with g63b engine
*Motor mounts from 2.0 truck, but fab'd to move engine 1 7/8" forward so CAS and thermostat housing will clear firewall.
*Lengthened driveshaft to go with motor mounts
*Make throttle body flange and weld to front side of intake manifold
*Waterpump from 87-89 g63b 2.0l modified to clear timing components
*Waterpipe from 87-89 g63b modified to accept turbo and throttle body coolant lines
*1.8L eclipse thermostat housing top(aims directly to side instead of angle towards firewall like 2.0dohc top)
*Custom intake and intercooler piping.
There is a few more I will add as I remember them.
Apart for new seals and gaskets
You need to grind down the ribs on the truck water pump so that the timing belt pulley will clear it
Ok, here's how I modified the stock truck waterpipe that comes off of the water pump. I had to do this due to the turbo and oil filter housing having coolant lines running to them and me running the truck water pump and waterpipe which do not have these fittings.
Spot added right behind pump for coolant line to oil filter housing.
You can see the second big fitting I welded on(came from stock 2.0l DOHC waterpipe). This goes to the turbo. The aluminum tubing behind the turbo is the outlet(or maybe inlet, can't remember which is which) for the coolant that I made.
Another view of cooling lines to and from turbo.
This pic shows the aluminum tubing(3/8") I made to run coolant to the throttle body like it does stock. I figured this was the best way to get coolant there since the throttle body has been moved to front of engine for RWD purposes.
Another shot of the lines to throttle body
Connecting to throttle body.
My modified motor mounts to move engine 1 7/8"(what I chose to move it) forward
Showing difference of 1.8L cover(parrallel with engine) and 2.0 4g63(pointing towards firewall)
Ready to go in
It's in!
Since I had already done all the wiring troubles on the swap before, I only had to connect these three wires to power my harness/ecu/mpi relay
How she's sitting after the 5-lug swap and new wheels
Well I've been getting everything mounted and connected, etc... All I have to do is get my alternator wiring done and finish the exhaust from the end of the cat to the back and it should be done. Hope to start it by the end of tomorrow and possible drive it too since my driveshaft is supposed to be done also
Got the intercooler in its place so I can retain my A/C. Its size is 27x5.5x2.75. It fits right under the a/c lines and the piping goes right around them. Sticks right through the middle of the bumper so should see plenty of fresh cold air.
Its running and almost driving, should be driving it tomorrow. I still need to reattach my exhaust under the bed and install my driveshaft. I also need to figure out what is causing me to still have a small idle surge, other then that its good to go. Still needs some cleaning up and permanent mounting of some stuff but she's basically done for now.
Anyways here is my 1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Macrocab pickup. Got her for $750 all stock with a blown head gasket, fixed that then the motor blew. Decided to swap in my 6 bolt 4g63t that I had from my previous single cab mitsu pickup that I had already swapped, but decided to get rid of actual truck due to it being in not so nice condition. So here I am, I have been a member on the site for years now since I started my first truck swap.
I already had this engine in my previous truck so most of the major fab work has already been completed.
List of parts needed and/or mods to complete swap that I used to complete swap:
*4g63t and all manifolds/sensors/etc.. from 90-92(preferably) Eclipse/Talon/Laser
*Engine wiring harness, ECU, and MPI Relay from same vehicle
*Shorten/Lengthen engine harness wires as necessary to reach their new position and power/ground the ecu/mpi relay
*KM132 4 or 5 speed manual transmission from late 80's 2.0l Mighty Max/Ram50 with g63b engine
*Motor mounts from 2.0 truck, but fab'd to move engine 1 7/8" forward so CAS and thermostat housing will clear firewall.
*Lengthened driveshaft to go with motor mounts
*Make throttle body flange and weld to front side of intake manifold
*Waterpump from 87-89 g63b 2.0l modified to clear timing components
*Waterpipe from 87-89 g63b modified to accept turbo and throttle body coolant lines
*1.8L eclipse thermostat housing top(aims directly to side instead of angle towards firewall like 2.0dohc top)
*Custom intake and intercooler piping.
There is a few more I will add as I remember them.
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Apart for new seals and gaskets
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You need to grind down the ribs on the truck water pump so that the timing belt pulley will clear it
Ok, here's how I modified the stock truck waterpipe that comes off of the water pump. I had to do this due to the turbo and oil filter housing having coolant lines running to them and me running the truck water pump and waterpipe which do not have these fittings.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Spot added right behind pump for coolant line to oil filter housing.
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You can see the second big fitting I welded on(came from stock 2.0l DOHC waterpipe). This goes to the turbo. The aluminum tubing behind the turbo is the outlet(or maybe inlet, can't remember which is which) for the coolant that I made.
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Another view of cooling lines to and from turbo.
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This pic shows the aluminum tubing(3/8") I made to run coolant to the throttle body like it does stock. I figured this was the best way to get coolant there since the throttle body has been moved to front of engine for RWD purposes.
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Another shot of the lines to throttle body
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Connecting to throttle body.
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My modified motor mounts to move engine 1 7/8"(what I chose to move it) forward
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Showing difference of 1.8L cover(parrallel with engine) and 2.0 4g63(pointing towards firewall)
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Ready to go in
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It's in!
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Since I had already done all the wiring troubles on the swap before, I only had to connect these three wires to power my harness/ecu/mpi relay
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
How she's sitting after the 5-lug swap and new wheels
Well I've been getting everything mounted and connected, etc... All I have to do is get my alternator wiring done and finish the exhaust from the end of the cat to the back and it should be done. Hope to start it by the end of tomorrow and possible drive it too since my driveshaft is supposed to be done also
Got the intercooler in its place so I can retain my A/C. Its size is 27x5.5x2.75. It fits right under the a/c lines and the piping goes right around them. Sticks right through the middle of the bumper so should see plenty of fresh cold air.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Its running and almost driving, should be driving it tomorrow. I still need to reattach my exhaust under the bed and install my driveshaft. I also need to figure out what is causing me to still have a small idle surge, other then that its good to go. Still needs some cleaning up and permanent mounting of some stuff but she's basically done for now.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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