The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

My 2g turbo problem

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ElementDO

15+ Year Contributor
80
0
Jul 20, 2006
Hagerstown, Maryland
So my car is idling fine on start up for a while. Then I rev it up (I cant drive it yet, no temp tags). Then it starts to die off and eventually shuts off completely. I set my SAFC to specs as another guys with almost the same specs as my car, but she is still running REALLY rich. I know this isnt right, but I needed something for now since I cant drive it. I wont be able to tune properly till I get her on the road. I also have 2 boost leaks Im going to fix this weekend. I believe this could cause my idle problem too.



Here is the mods:
-Huge intercooler 32x12x3
-Intercooler piping 2.5”
-RC550 Injectors
-190LPH Fuel pump
-Stillen 3 inch downpipe
-Thermal 3 inch full exhaust (no cat)
-EVO 3 16G Turbo (ported)
-Turbo XS BOV
-Hallman ES Manual boost controller
-Aftermarket Intake
-3 layer metal head gasket
-MSD 8.5mill Race Wires

1. What could be causing my motor to die off eventually?

2. Can I set the SAFC to where its not running so rich, by not being able to drive it yet?
 
Is your ECU tuned correctly? I know with my car, when I take my battery out, mine resets and I have to reload everything on there, and if I don't it runs really rich and crappy.
 
Rikolas- Thats the thing I dont think I can tune it correctly without being able to drive it. Then again I dont want to drive it since its stalling out you know? Like I said I tuned it just like another guys with almost the same stuff just to get it stop running so rich. No luck.

Brian- No I do not. Its an autometer phantom gauge. This one:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
That cheap narrowband gauge isn't going to help you at all. You need a wideband o2 sensor or to just throw the stock injectors back in. You can't just tune the safc to where others have tuned there safc's to. It needs to be tuned to your specific car with a wideband.
 
Yeah that gauge is useless. Are you deff sure all your intercooler pipes are attached and your intake is attached correctly? I know it sounds dumb but some times little things get over looked. Deff at the very least you need a logger and a wideband to start tuning.
 
Bryan- Yeah Im in the process of getting one. This gauge came with the car. Even when the previous owner had it with this gauge it wasnt running this rich.

Brian- 2 boost leaks I'm addressing tonight or tomorrow. I'm new to the whole tuning thing. Been reading and searching though a lot. Where do I get a logger? Ill get a wideband on here from the marketplace probably.
 
You can go cheap with a vag cable off ebay and evoscan thats waht i used on my old 97 worked great. Yes link would be ideal but i doubt you want to drop 6-700 off the bat.
 
just tighten everything down than get a new wideband than tne if that doesnt work check your injectors you might be getting way too much air also
 
Is the bov open during idle time? If so you need to throw some shims in there to keep it closed during idle operation(I assume it is vented to atmosphere?)
 
+2 on the shims -dees75z

I notice the turbo xs bov on your mods list is it re circulated?? I have the same one just the type h had a similar problem with too weak of a spring maybe this can be an easy fix to your problem along with fixing the boost leak you noted.
 
Dees- No idea yet. Havent looked. Battery is out right now in order to change fuel filter. Wont be able to see until Im done with that.

GoCanes- No it is not re circulated. What do you guys mean by shims? Just something to close it up during idle?
 
By putting shims in the bov it changes the seat pressure those keeping it closed until the throttle plate closes and vacuum from the engine assists it opening. Dont put too many in just enough to keep it closed at idle and slight throttle.
Also, factory, the bov discharged the compressed air in the intercoller pipe back to the maf so it can meter every ounce of air the engine sees. You honestly should ditch the rfl and either find an aftermarket bov that you can recirculate or a 1g bov IMHO.
 
Thanks everyone. Tons of help. I ordered a VAG cable, HKS SSQV BOV and flange. I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and did a compression test. Everything checked out ok with the compression test. I also seafoamed it and it is idling 10x better now. Think this idle problem was from the car sitting for 4 years with old gas and oil?
 
Still a stalling issue after I drove it up and down the road a few times.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top