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My $2.37 Hood vent modification w/pictures

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You want low under-hood temps because it affects coolant and intake temps ya?

Well, I dropped my coolant temps 30* and my intake temps 40* with a koyo and a $25 CAI w/o going under surgery. I drive with 176-183 coolant temps all day. While it's more expensive it looks a ton better and is more effective. Fiberglass/Carbon fiber hood with RRE vents FTW

Post in detail with logs and progression of mods like I did, I'd like to see it. Feel free to add to my other thread. You realize I can run as low as 140s right? First I took it to the extreme and now I'm using other means to control the range where I want it.
 
Post in detail with logs and progression of mods like I did, I'd like to see it. Feel free to add to my other thread. You realize I can run as low as 140s right? First I took it to the extreme and now I'm using other means to control the range where I want it.

Before the mods - i don't have a log bc it was so long ago. But i was sitting at Taco bell with 140 intake temps before CAI and 203-206 coolant.

1. 2.0L with stock Rad, Tubular manifold, slim line fans, CAI (Ran 206-210 coolant temps and 90-120 intake regularly)

- The intake temps are with the CAI

2. 2.4L with stock Rad, Tubular manifold, slim line fans, CAI (i would normally run 196* or so)

- intake temps are that low probably because it was night
- Coolant temps are also lower

These logs were taken a year apart at the same time.

I can post a log with the koyo added now if you want. I realize i changed motors but that shouldn't change coolant temps all that much. The koyo seemed to make the difference - 15 year old Rad.'s take alot of abuse.

Keep in mind these are really shitty tunes.

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You don't want 140* coolant temps btw. :rocks:
 

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Kevin, ludachris and others thanks for posting and understanding what my goal here was to accomplish. I could care less how the car looks, it has stock 93 paint, no interior, talon rims. The goal of this car was to make it perform not look pretty in car shows. I did this mod in order to keep underhood engine temps at rest, I also cut the passanger headlight and will be doing a "passanger headlight ram-air" setup, I will probley have this done by Friday or Saturday. I figure with the ambient air flowing in, it will have a nice area to flow and have a way to exit as well (vent). I dont know how you people can argue the downsides of this modification cept the "looks" aspect of it, either you hate it or you love it. Combine 90+ degree weather, plus a glowing hot exhaust manifold, a red hot recirculated dump tube all in one and lock it into a engine bay with virtually no way to vent itself to atmosphere things are going to get hot. Try this, take a lighter and light it place your middle finger and pointer about 2" from the flame (keep your middle finger and pointer closed together), see how long you can keep it there. Now spread your middle finger and pointer and do the samething, and tell me how long you can keep it there.
 
You're analogy is sound, with the exception that we feel pain, while a car doesn't, not to mention metal absorbs a lot more heat than our skin. You're point should be proven though. Like I said, I'm not much of a fan with the way it looks, but sometimes looks need to take a back seat to function. You can have both in most cases, but in the end it rests in the eye of the beholder. Great job either way! :thumb:
 
Ludachris said:
You're thinking in terms of heat inside the manifold/engine. It's the heat outside of the manifold in your engine bay that needs to escape, and it won't exit through the tail pipe. Trying to keep the underhood temps down isn't going to affect your exhaust velocity. Take a look at most cars in pro sports car racing, they all vent their hoods to keep temps low under the hood. You can wrap your manifold and turbine housing to help exhaust velocity but you still have to try and keep the temps down outside of the manifold somehow - venting is the best way to do it.

I'm quite well versed in thermodynamics, in fact I have a heating duct design patent pending for a non automobile related invention... The majority of the heat in your engine bay, especially right around your radiator is caused by heat radiated from your exhaust, mainly the manifold.. adding a vent that would cool the area around your manifold would most certainly cause your manifold to lose more heat on the outside which would be filled by heat on from the inside and exhaust velocity would be lost undoubtably.. if your manifold was adequetely insulated the difference would be null.. but with a bare mani you bet you'd be losing velocity..

Ludachris said:
And you're not going to get a rush of air on your manifold with a hood vent. The air will go through the radiator and escape through the vent. Air won't be rushing in through the vent.

The vent on this 1gb looks not bad in terms of sucking in air.. but the big ugly ones people put on the 2Gs.. they weren't professionally designed in a wind tunnel like the evo.. there's a lot more resistance through the ic, rad, condensor, than would be right through the vents... can't say for certain either way without wind tunnel testing.


Hey rice.. like I already said to you.. I just bought this '97 I've had it for about 8 months, and I've only been home for about 3 of those months.. I put in a clutch, flywheel, and I've done the t-belt.. along with a bunch of other little crap.. so now it's ready for some speed parts. How modified my current car is has nothing to do with my knowledge.. quit being a douche pal...
 
Before the mods - i don't have a log bc it was so long ago. But i was sitting at Taco bell with 140 intake temps before CAI and 203-206 coolant.

1. 2.0L with stock Rad, Tubular manifold, slim line fans, CAI (Ran 206-210 coolant temps and 90-120 intake regularly)

- The intake temps are with the CAI

2. 2.4L with stock Rad, Tubular manifold, slim line fans, CAI (i would normally run 196* or so)

- intake temps are that low probably because it was night
- Coolant temps are also lower

These logs were taken a year apart at the same time.

I can post a log with the koyo added now if you want. I realize i changed motors but that shouldn't change coolant temps all that much. The koyo seemed to make the difference - 15 year old Rad.'s take alot of abuse.

You don't want 140* coolant temps btw. :rocks:

If you read my main bumper mod thread carefully and notice my objective stated many times, you'd know what temp range I am aiming for and in what conditions. You must be able to run the range I am in order to use a fan controller to maintain a custom range, otherwise you don't have the margin to work within.

Not bad, but remember my engine temps were hitting 220+ and intake temps 145+ during highway commuting. Now I can run as low as high 140s engine temps and 70s intake temps with fans on. I'm not making this a dick measuring contest, just pointing out that my comprehensive cooling system overhaul is the only way to take it to the extreme. Like Ludachris has pointed out, one reason for these forums is to experiment and share the results with the community. People who want better cooling can choose how far they want to take it.

Try this, take a lighter and light it place your middle finger and pointer about 2" from the flame (keep your middle finger and pointer closed together), see how long you can keep it there. Now spread your middle finger and pointer and do the samething, and tell me how long you can keep it there.

Steve, just point that finger at anyone who has a problem with your functional mod! ROFL
 
yes, it looks bad, but functionallity is where its at. I would give alot to have a heat exchanger and get rid of some temps underhood.
 
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