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Motive Powerbleeder custom brake cap

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Detail

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35
May 28, 2003
Marietta, Georgia
I recently picked up a motive power bleeder to aid the bleeding of brakes on the 6-7 cars of my friends and I have to do.

Here is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...474&sr=8-1&keywords=motive+power+bleeder+0117

For the nissans it was very straight forward. Take the cap, screw it on. Test it doesn't leak, and proceed to fill and bleed.

There is no Mitsubishi style cap. Motive wants you to use a generic cap that you then clamp down to insure it doesn't leak.

I'm sure you can modify a factory cap to pressurize the system. Have any of you done this? Have pics???

Detail
 
The cap I have. The barb I'll grab at home depot this weekend. The real question for me is how you seal the cap on the underside. Our little rubber diaphragm doesn't look like it's going to seal the cap to the master cylinder when pressurized. This seems especially true once I have to cut a whole through it to allow the barb. I'm wondering if we need to find some other form of seal to squish inside.

Thoughts?
 
Here is what I use, it's a little more, but works great as long as you clean it and don't let fluid sit in it (obviously).

In conjunction with a clamp-on gravity resevoir on top, I've never had an issue, and when on a lift I can bleed all 4 corners on about 10-15 min, 20 min on the ground.

Granted, you would need at least a pancake compressor to run this, so the self-pump power bleeder may be more practical for some.
 
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I'm in the middle of this. I have a motive init. I modified it with a Schrader valve and use an air hose with a pressure regulator attached. For the master I went to the junkyard and got a stock Mitsubishi cap I can modify. That's the part I haven't done yet. Simple hose barb. I'm going to cut the diaphragm middle out so that cap still seals.
 
I tried modifying a stock reservoir cap.

The cap and diaphragm are designed not to seal - at least, the diaphragm seals to the reservoir, but the cap does not seal to the diaphragm - intentionally, as air has to enter between the diaphragm and the cap to allow the diaphragm to move with the fluid as the level drops.

It is quite difficult to get the cap to seal sufficiently well - even when I was absolutely certain I had a good seal, I still sprayed brake fluid all over the place.

This was with a 2G, I don't know whether the 1G cap would be equally uncooperative.
 
ACM,
I think you're going to be correct. My cap is now modded. I still intend to put a clamp around it and give it a shot. I'll obviously do a dry run with the pump before even thinking about adding fluid. Hopefully I don't take a bath in fluid.
 
I really didn't like the power bleeder myself. Can't recall what solution I had for the cap problem as I used that like... 14 years ago. The whole thing was kludgy to use.

To keep my life simple I use a simple brake fluid bottle that hangs from my caliper and has check valve between the bottle and the caliper in-line. I have this one at the moment:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't like speed bleeders anymore after having them leak a few times before. Can't take risks on a track only car and the in-line valve is basically the same thing without the risk.
 
They used to sell a universal cap. It was a large cap (3" or 4") with a rubber seal on the bottom and a fitting in the middle. They used j-hook bolts and a piece of chain to secure the cap to MC or MC reservoir. You could probably make one fairly easily. A piece of rubber, a piece of thick hdpe cutting board, a piece of chain and two modified bolts and nuts.

Good luck
 
I still found a use for the unit. The best way I've found to move gear oil is under pressure so I use this to fill the trans. I also drilled a hole in the unit added a schraeder valve amd use a regulated source of air to pump fluid.
 
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