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2G Modernizing the stereo - issues, considerations, recommendations (99 Spyder)


Proven Member
May 31, 2022
MARBLEHEAD, Massachusetts
Not a lot of stereo discussions here.

1) For stereo updates/upgrades, are there any eclipse spyder 99 concerns, recommendations, and or limitations that may not be obvious? I know the electrical systems for the DSM isn't great, so I was curious if there are other limitations inherent in that car.

2) Happy to consider recommendations. I have spec'ed a system below. My goal was to build a system that incorporates wireless android auto/carplay and have a backup camera. I want it to have solid bass, but not rattle the next car over. I know that with the top down, I will need something with some power. Years ago my brother was an installer at a place in Florida, so I must get something that he won't heckle me over.

Alpine 2din ilx507 + backup camera
Alpine S6.5 in doors
Alpine S 6x9s in rear panel
Alpine Type R 10" sub in prefab box (single)
Alpine S A55v amp channel

*the store was not going to replace or use the 3 inch speaker on the left/right dash, which I thought was odd.


Supporting Member
Feb 7, 2005
San Diego and Vancouver, BC_Canada
I ran a bunch SPL systems for many years in my Talon and it was pretty straight forward. I never bothered replacing the dash or door speakers though...I just wired the deck, monoblock amp and subs.

I forget the specific model of the deck but it's a Pioneer head unit from 2006.
The amp I ran last was an Orion HCCA D5000 monoblock paired with an Orion HCCA 15.2 sub.
I had 0 gauge wiring throughout with an Optima Yellow battery as well as a 5.2 Farad Capacitor.

The only major issues that I faced were having to completely gut the rear to make it all fit as well as power cuts every so often.

It was my fault though to be honest. I never bothered doing the Big Three, which was really dumb of me considering what I was running.

Either than those, it was pretty easy.


Proven Member
Apr 22, 2015
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
@ipWitan You can always buy a usb wireless carplay dongle later. As far as suggestions, I always do a secondary battery by the amp, but that's me. I would do that or a nice capacitor just to reduce the toll on the cars electrical system on the hard hits, and avoid any dimming.


Supporting Member
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Capacitors don't work, please stay away from them in these times. Big 3 is a must, 4 to 0 gauge a must, awg copper, don't use aluminum copper coated.

I don't run any audio in machine. But it'd be perfect for 5 ch amp, 6x9 in rear.. whatever the fronts are and a 12. Box tuned to 32hz,ported.

The audio game has changed tremendously.

Also I think that amp puts out no more than 300w to the sub ch at 2ohm. And 200 at 4ohm.

The alpine sub would have to be

Alpine SWR-1042D Type R​

If power over 1kwatts, use a 2nd battery. The way these things run and w the gauges, ecmlink or whatever, I wouldn't run anything over 500watts. You'll be driving and while you're in boost, the bass will hit, probably pull all your power from the injectors and put a stall on your performance 😂
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