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2G Mixing Poly & OE Motor Mounts

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Kai Hefner

Freelancer
480
272
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
Hey all,

I'm away from my Talon but I recently changed out the motor mounts in my Golf. It was pretty crazy how big of a difference motor mounts made. The clutch engages better, and more power gets put to the ground.

I was curious if anyone has experience doing combination poly/OE mounts on a DSM? That is, making some mounts poly, and some OE rubber. I thought maybe having stiffer mounts on the transmission side, could make the clutch feel better and put power down better, but mixed with some OE mounts, wouldn't have cabin vibration. Basically have some of the benefits of poly, while trying to minimize the NVH. Anyone messed around with this?
 
I always noticed way more vibration in the interior with the driver's side motor mount converted to poly. My solution was to put 1G Prothane bushings in the front and back mounts of my 2G and OEM on the driver and passenger sides. It depends on the motor though. My brother's car with full poly motor mounts is way smoother than mine.
 
The poly mount set available for DSMs only has 2 fully poly mounts anyway. The front and rear roll stop mounts only get harder inserts that cover the OEM mounts and to me at least, seem like they're plastic rather than poly. So technically, it's half and half already. The main two mounts are good enough on their own and make the roll stops seem irrelevant.
 
The poly mount set available for DSMs only has 2 fully poly mounts anyway. The front and rear roll stop mounts only get harder inserts that cover the OEM mounts and to me at least, seem like they're plastic rather than poly. So technically, it's half and half already. The main two mounts are good enough on their own and make the roll stops seem irrelevant.
This. ^^^^

The most change and vibrations came from the engine and trans mount installed. I drove for a few weeks with stock rolls stop bushings while I sourced the front and rear “inserts”. I went full solid when I found a thread on here about a rear 1g prothane fitting into 2g roll stops.
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I did not notice any significant difference going solid on the roll stops. Maybe you can try doing the top trans mount and both roll stops solid while leaving the drivers side mount stock to help dampen the vibrations. I’d be curious to know if that would change anything.
 
The poly mount set available for DSMs only has 2 fully poly mounts anyway. The front and rear roll stop mounts only get harder inserts that cover the OEM mounts and to me at least, seem like they're plastic rather than poly. So technically, it's half and half already. The main two mounts are good enough on their own and make the roll stops seem irrelevant.
Yeah I put the 1G ones in the front and rear of the 2G mounts so they're the full pieces. I didn't like the inserts.
 
Maybe you can try doing the top trans mount and both roll stops solid while leaving the drivers side mount stock to help dampen the vibrations. I’d be curious to know if that would change anything.
I think this is exactly what I'm going to do. The 1g poly in the rollstops is pretty cool, and I want to see if keeping that driver side mount stock would make any difference.
 
Yes I have mixed OEM mounts with poly and have for years. OEM mounts will eventually tear, this method keeps them from tearing. Never try to use an old worn out mount. I recommend a brand new mount and then back fill them. The drivers mount is the one IMO that creates all the vibration.

The mount on the rear sub frame closest to the firewall needs to be full poly. That mount take the most abuse. ON a high HP car even though I had a really good solid OEM mount back there it eventually tore as well.

This is 1g info BTW.
 
I have done it all! Lol i even took my 1g torn trans mount and filled with my own poly.

As soon as you start changing youll feel vibration and i do believe its better to at least do 2 at a time if youre mixing and matching. Front and rear are probably least of your concern if they arent torn and arent racing.

I still have a torque sution front mount that only got mounted then switched to a full solid crossmember
 
I've ran poly mounts since 2017, front rear and driver side to be exact. I could never find the trans poly mount so it's remained stock. The polys are great and definitely worth doing but now my trans mount has worn so much that you can definitely feel clunking and negatively affected shifting operation. In fact, through logging, I have noticed phantom knock exactly during shifting; it just shakes so much it confuses the knock sensor.

That said, I would advise against mixing mounts. Either go full solid, full poly or buy new OEM ones. When you have 2 or 3 much stiffer than the rest, they will put excessive torsional forces on the weaker mounts and it will deform them. Also the motor still moves somewhat, and it wont move equally in all directions if you mix and match.

P.S does anyone have a 2G AWD trans poly insert laying around? I really REALLY need its dimensions so I can make my own :sosad:
 
I've ran poly mounts since 2017, front rear and driver side to be exact. I could never find the trans poly mount so it's remained stock. The polys are great and definitely worth doing but now my trans mount has worn so much that you can definitely feel clunking and negatively affected shifting operation. In fact, through logging, I have noticed phantom knock exactly during shifting; it just shakes so much it confuses the knock sensor.

That said, I would advise against mixing mounts. Either go full solid, full poly or buy new OEM ones. When you have 2 or 3 much stiffer than the rest, they will put excessive torsional forces on the weaker mounts and it will deform them. Also the motor still moves somewhat, and it wont move equally in all directions if you mix and match.

P.S does anyone have a 2G AWD trans poly insert laying around? I really REALLY need its dimensions so I can make my own :sosad:
See if boosted fab has one... other optio is to make your own

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Has anyone tried replacing only the driver's side mount with a Prothane, especially on a 1G turbo AWD manual? I recently got a set on sale for $25, not for any performance-based reasons but because the stock OEM one's ripping apart and you can't buy OEM replacements. It's either fix the OEM bushings, replace the whole mount for $100 or more, or get the Prothanes.

I wasn't keen on trying to fix it with Window Weld, especially at $20 and just a few bucks less than the Prothanes, and spending $100 or more with the stock mount itself being fine seemed silly, so I ordered the Prothanes. They're still sitting in the box as I haven't had a chance to install them, plus when I do I'm going to try to save the metal sleeve using a ball joint kit in case I really don't like the Prothanes and decide to reinstall the ripped OEMs and try the Window Weld method.

But if I only replace the driver's side mount with Prothanes, should I expect a lot more vibration, and if so and it's unacceptable, are there decent and safe solutions to alleviating it, say by drilling holes into the poly bushings or using rubber grommets as washers where the mount attaches to either the engine or chassis? Performance is secondary to DD comfort for me. Of course reliability and especially safety top either of these.
 
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