The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

mitsu dealer, dumbass mechanics

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ModInProgress

20+ Year Contributor
57
0
Oct 22, 2002
Plainfield_Illinios
My car has been a leakin a lil, so i brought it in to see what was leaking.
they said my car is gonna break soon, here is y they said.

1. the doll rod that hold the cam gear on the intake side is shorter cus it chipped off a long time ago. its been like that for the last year and its fine tho, but they say its gonna break.

2. my cv joint boot is ripped, i knew this but its been ripped for like a week so...

3. there is a leak somewhere on the belt side of the motor, they dont know where they just say its bad.

4. they said i have a vaccum leak cus my exhaust mani is leakin where a stud is broke. HOW THE HELL COULD THAT GIVE ME A VAC LEAK, these guys r morons, my vac is at 18 to 20 all the time. they also told me when i was orderin a new upper thermostat housing that there was no sensor in it, and the peace came with a plug in it that was like locked in there and i could not get it out, the guys there said that the sensor that is on my car must be aftermarket cus they dont have sensors there. but yet all my freinds with dsm's have a sensor in the thermo housing. WTF????? y r the mechanics there so dumb, all they do is look at the computer. they took apart my exhuast ant now my car buzzes so i have to fix that now, jesus.

thats all, but they said to get rid of it, its gonna break soon. i say wow really cus it has broke all it can, i have put 2g pistons in it, new gaskets everywhere, new alternator, new belts, just did timing tensioner, and timing, probably spent about 1500 on parts and 2000 on car, and the guy said i wont get 500 bux for it, when my tires are worth 500 bux, i dont really know what i am tryin to get with this thread, but can someone re assure me that my car is fine. and also anything that breaks i can fis easyily myself, i have rebuilt it. thanks jason

oh its a 90 eclipse gs turbo fwd:dsm:
 
I don't think I would ever take any car to a dealership. First off, most will bleed you until you drop. More so, though, I find the mechanics don't seem to give a damn. I've had lug nuts torqued to hundreds of foot pounds, tires improperly inflated -- by a lot -- because they didn't notice what model the car was, transmissions that wouldn't shift for beans pronounced "normal" to avoid having to fix it under warranty, and the list goes on. This is not just Mitsubishi, by the way.

So, to answer your question, it doesn't sound like there is much wrong now that you can't fix yourself. In practice there's not much you can't fix period (crankwalk being a notable exception) with a willing friend, a case of beer, and a competent machine shop.
 
autotronic, what do you mean? i should of said this in the beginning, pls no jackass responses.
 
First i would like to say that i'm a mitsubishi mechanic at a Carmax Mitsubishi store. I agree that 100% that mitsubishi parts people can be idiots. I tried ordering an o2 sensor for my 90awd with a vin# and both times they gave me the wrong one so i was forced to buy it elsewhere. My first question is for Modinprogress: What problems did you bring your car to the dealer for? Did you just ask them, "Do you think that this car is worth keeping"? And a torn cv boot is no big deal, i think that they even explain how to do it on this website on the 1G project car install. As for your other concerns...i'm not sure what the hell those guys were talking about. And on your thermo housing, are you talking about your coolant temp sensor or your o2 sensor that mounts right below it or what?
For Jpolizo: Having your wheels slightly overtorqued is not to bad, i have heard that it is possible that possible that it can help warp your rotors. If i'm correct the proper torque for most mitsu wheels is something like 86Ft. pounds, but to be completely honest with you, i have only met one mechanic that gets out a torque wrench every time he needs to tighten wheels. I think maybe 2 out of 60+ mechanics at my shop use torque tools to tighten wheels. The truth is me and other 90+% of mechanics usualy just tighten your lug nuts with a 1/2" ingersol rand impact and a 21 mm impact socket. And to be honest, its worked that way for a while. And if you bring in your car for an oil change or service or what ever your mechanic should be setting your tires to about 32 psi, atleast that's what i was tought to do.
Most of the time Dealership mechanics will give you and estimate for most or all of the work that should or could be done to make car run better or safer, but that's how we make money. It is your option to do part, all , or none of the work. But not all mitsu dealers are full of idiotic techs that don't know a GSX from a evo8. I would try another local dealer if you can find one. Good luck with your repairs, and YES THE CAR IS WORTH KEEPING, these first gens get more rare everyday, and to find one cheap that isn't rusted out or blown up is even better.
Gooberlog
 
thanks goober, i originally brought it in cus i needed a bolt i lost for my trans, cus i did a trans trade cus my old one had ripped seal and a hole in it. it was screwed up. so they said i dont need a bolt there anyway, and i was like well when i press the clutch it pushes the trans over an inch off the motor, geee i think i need that bolt. its running incredibly good now, like usual, but my clutch is ### as hell cus of that dam bolt
dammit.
 
Gooberlog! You made my point! You aren't being facetious are you?

Yep, I was definitely the victim of that Ingersoll Rand. Also, guess what happens when you put 32psi into a Ford Explorer's wheels ... they tip over. Kinda seems like dealer mechanics would know that.
 
LOL:laugh: , yeah usualy mechanics will put 35-40psi in suv or truck tires, but i've never had an explorer roll over on me with 32psi but maybe that's just those wacky firestones?? :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by ModInProgress
thanks goober, i originally brought it in cus i needed a bolt i lost for my trans, cus i did a trans trade cus my old one had ripped seal and a hole in it. it was screwed up. so they said i dont need a bolt there anyway, and i was like well when i press the clutch it pushes the trans over an inch off the motor, geee i think i need that bolt. its running incredibly good now, like usual, but my clutch is ### as hell cus of that dam bolt
dammit.
Yeah if i were you i'd buy a Chilton manual or something and only bring your car to the dealer when you can't fix it yourself, concidering your luck, but when you must go to a mitsu dealer for your delership needed parts,,, god help you well all know that that's the bigest pain when fixing a dsm is getting a bolt or a nut off of a combobulator on a car made in 1990, as the parts man looks at you like your crazy for owning a 13yr old car. Good luck
Gooberlog
 
Originally posted by Gooberlog
LOL:laugh: , yeah usualy mechanics will put 35-40psi in suv or truck tires, but i've never had an explorer roll over on me with 32psi but maybe that's just those wacky firestones?? :rolleyes:

Actually, the problem with the Explorers was that they were dangerously unstable until the recommended tire pressure was significantly lowered (I recall 25psi). The problem with the Firestone tires was that they overheated at that pressure and would fail catastrophically, also causing roll-overs.

Once again, you pretty much made my point.
 
Originally posted by Gooberlog
And on your thermo housing, are you talking about your coolant temp sensor or your o2 sensor that mounts right below it or what?

The top piece of the theromstat has a sensor in it, it's the ac fan switch. That's what he's talking about.

Originally posted by Gooberlog

For Jpolizo: Having your wheels slightly overtorqued is not to bad, i have heard that it is possible that possible that it can help warp your rotors. If i'm correct the proper torque for most mitsu wheels is something like 86Ft. pounds, but to be completely honest with you, i have only met one mechanic that gets out a torque wrench every time he needs to tighten wheels. I think maybe 2 out of 60+ mechanics at my shop use torque tools to tighten wheels. The truth is me and other 90+% of mechanics usualy just tighten your lug nuts with a 1/2" ingersol rand impact and a 21 mm impact socket. And to be honest, its worked that way for a while.

Not torqueing in a star patern is a very easy way to warp rotors. Uneven torque on lugnuts is another. Ingersol rand does make great impact tools (that's what I use at work also), but I wouldn't always rely on them for torque. Some models are better than others, the gray plastic cased ones with the direction buttons on the back of the gun seem to be the easiest to modulate.
Mechanics do that because it's in their best intrest, $, to do so. When you get paid for a four hour job and figure out a way to do it in an hour of course you'll cut that corner.
Torque on most mitsubishi alloy wheels is 101ft lbs, not 86.

Originally posted by Gooberlog
And if you bring in your car for an oil change or service or what ever your mechanic should be setting your tires to about 32 psi, atleast that's what i was tought to do. [/B]

NO whoever told you that is wrong and doesn't know jack about how air pressure effects the handling balance of a car, or how air pressure effects load capacity of a tire.
The proper air pressure for most cars can be found on the door jamb or door itself (some manufacturers put it in the glovebox, volvo lists it on the fuel door). 1G awds call for 29psi front and 26psi rear. By making the rear air pressure the same as the front you are increasing understeer as well as making the ride harsher than needed.
Running your tires at a pressure slightly higher than recomended isn't a bad thing, assuming you still have even treadwear.

Correct air pressure for an explorer is actually 30psi, ford changed it about two years ago for all model years. A lot of the problem came from people installing LT tires on explorers, these are a load range C tire that has 6 plies. They have a stiffer sidewall than P rated truck tires which are a 4 ply. The explorers suspension was designed for more compliant P rated tires and make it easier to roll the truck if steering input is to quick. I have seen a claim file about an explorer that rolled with BFG A/Ts on it (LT tire).
The real problem is those SUVs are complete and total cr*p, but if ford recalled of them for that they'd have to recall every vehicle they ever made. :p
 
Well i'm glad cleared up that big ford explorer tire pressure feeasko. And when ever i tighten a wheel i use my composite ingersol rand imact on the highest seting tightening the lugnus in a star pater. I'm aware that the factory recomended tire pressures are locaed on the door jam for most mitsubishi's but for most cars 32 is a pressure to set them to im my opinion. Good luck and don't get all worked up about some tight lugnuts.
Gooberlog
 
Originally posted by ModInProgress
autotronic, what do you mean? i should of said this in the beginning, pls no jackass responses.

What I meant was if you don't fix oil leak you will eventually forget to check it and run out of it.
 
oh ok, ya i see what you mean but i wont do that cus i am always checkin everything on my car, but thanks for the input
 
Just to keep you guys posted, i had an Evolution 8 at work today, and due to our little discusion, i took the time to get the tire pressures off the door jam 32 and 29 and i also made sure the factory 17" Enkei wheels were torqued to 100ft. pounds with a torque wrench. I thought that i would do that just to make you guys happy. Anyone else get to drive one yet, those things are realy nice. Good night evryone
Gooberlog
 
Originally posted by Gooberlog
Just to keep you guys posted, i had an Evolution 8 at work today, and due to our little discusion, i took the time to get the tire pressures off the door jam 32 and 29 and i also made sure the factory 17" Enkei wheels were torqued to 100ft. pounds with a torque wrench. I thought that i would do that just to make you guys happy. Anyone else get to drive one yet, those things are realy nice. Good night evryone
Gooberlog

Hey, there's hope! ;)

Best regards, Gooberlog; I think you're cool even if you still use that damned impact wrench. If you're ever in Santa Cruz, CA .... there's a brew with your name on it.
 
the mitsubishi dealer here in tucson (autoplex) is a ####in joke, my nephew took his 97 gsx in for a 60,000 mile maintenance and they put his timing belt in wrong, twice. The first time we turned the car on all you could hear was tapping from the head. Before we even drove off we went back inside and asked for the manager, he said that they were not at fault for anything, when I told him that my father was an attorney he quickly replied "we'll take a look at it." He continued to deny the work they had done was f'n up the car. After 2 days (they already had it for 1 full day and night) we get a call that its done and its still messed up, at thiis point they continued to deny it and even lied and said that it was like that when we dropped it off. At this point were thinking lawsuit cuz they're being suck tremendous assholes about they're own bad work. to cut the story short they finally did it right after almost 1 week. never will my nephew or I take our cars back to that shithole.
 
i only took mine to the dealership for the transfer case recall.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top