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2G MFI/MPI Relay

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kahl23

15+ Year Contributor
1,093
12
May 10, 2004
Wellesley, Massachusetts
I know a lot of guys are trying to find the MFI/MPI relay, here's where it is and what it looks like on a 95 GSX.
 

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Solution
Testing the relay is a matter of applying power to the coil winding and making sure the contacts close. Inside the metal box are two relays, one for the MPI power and one for the fuel pump power. The fuel pump relay has two coil windings and energising either should close the contacts.

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This is the circuit for an 1G automatic car taken from the 1G tech manual. The manual cars have the starter relay and clutch safety switch replacing the AT Inhibitor switch for providing power to the second fuel pump coil to activate the pump while cranking the engine.

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Applying +12v to pin 10 and the ground (-battery) connection to pin 8 should make 12v show up at pins 4 and 5. Same deal for pin 3 and 7 causing...
In case you were wondering, that last picture shows the two mounting holes for the relay. They're located behind the center console side panel (passenger's side) below the radio.

Sorry to keep posting but can anyone (i.e. Steve) tell me how to test this baby to see if it works?
 
Testing the relay is a matter of applying power to the coil winding and making sure the contacts close. Inside the metal box are two relays, one for the MPI power and one for the fuel pump power. The fuel pump relay has two coil windings and energising either should close the contacts.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


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This is the circuit for an 1G automatic car taken from the 1G tech manual. The manual cars have the starter relay and clutch safety switch replacing the AT Inhibitor switch for providing power to the second fuel pump coil to activate the pump while cranking the engine.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Applying +12v to pin 10 and the ground (-battery) connection to pin 8 should make 12v show up at pins 4 and 5. Same deal for pin 3 and 7 causing 12v to show at pin 2. Applying 12v across pins 9 and 6 will cause continuity between pins 3 and 2. (on relays with the second input)

I haven't looked at the 2G wiring to see if the 95's still use the second input of if they use a different MPI relay. The later 2Gs don't, they use two individual relays.

Steve
 
Solution
I haven't looked at the 2G wiring to see if the 9's still use the second input of if they use a different MPI relay. The later 2Gs don't, they use two individual relays.

Steve
I show the 95 still has both relays in the same unit but the FP relay now has only 1 coil (1 input). The 96-99 all have separate relay units.
 
Yep, looking more closely at the OP pictures it looks like it's a different relay and connector in the 95 so the pins numbers are likely different too.

Steve


95-96
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97-99
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im not getting any power to my fuel pump either, took me days to think to see if these cars have fuel pump relays or fuses, im gonna try a friends and see if the car starts!! wish me luck fellas
 
Make sure your pump is working correct as well (or first). I had problems with my pump during on. I hooked up an alternative power source to see if it was activating properly. Turned out that it was seizing up on me. Replaced it with an Evo 8 pump and all was well.
 
thats what i thought at first, swapped them out numerous times now, is there a way to check these?/test
 
^

First test:
Have a friend untwist the gas cap and listen inside while you turn the key to the on position, if your friend hears whirling your fuel pump is working. If not go to step 2.

Step two:
Test to see if you're getting voltage at the pump. This can be done under the hood next to the battery. Get a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery onto the fuel pump check terminal. Get your buddy to listen again while you do this, If you still don't hear whirring the fuel pump relay or it's control circuit is faulty.


Step 3:
Check for voltage at the proper pins on the EFI contorl relay, the one in the pic posted above. If voltage is present go to step 4.

Step 4:
Check for voltage at the fuel pump electrical connector, since you done swapped fuel pumps already you should know what the connector looks like. If there's voltage replace the pump, if not there's your problem.
 
I acquired a 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse that was not running for over a year due to the MFI/MPI relay not in the car.

When I got the car, they said the part was ordered, and that I just needed to go pick it up, but that was over a year ago, and the shop had already sent it back, and does not keep record of what it was. The old relay that came out of the car is missing, as the previous owner does not have it anymore.

I did some searching online, and found this wonderful website. I then took the numbers that I found on this site:

E8T08474 (from Picture),

MR224159 - After July 05
MR161519 - Before July 05

and actually had to call a Mitsubishi dealership before ANYONE could help me find the relay. They were able to send me a MPI/MFI relay, but I am not sure it is the correct one for my car. The numbers stamped on the top are: E8T07071. Is this the correct relay?

I plugged this relay in, changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires, put in 5 gal of new gas (cause it was sitting for over a year), and installed a new battery. The starter turned the engine, but the car would not start, and it did not seem to "turn over."

Anyone have any ideas? Do I have the correct part? Any help would be GREATLY Appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

VIN: 4A3CS54U7ME033181
Year/Make/Model: 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
Body Style: Hatchback 2 Dr
Engine Type: 2.0L L4 FI
 
hey i could use one if you don't mind

i have like 4 of those relays that have that code on them but different codes for the bottom but none of mine work either i got them with the car when i bought it
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello,

First of all thanks Steve for all the pics and time you have taken to help your anonymous cohorts.

I checked my 1990 talon TSI for voltage coming to pins 3, 9, and 10 and I found that 3 and 9 have 12 volts.
Pin 9 does not get any voltage. I do not have the automatic tranny so I am not sure which sensor to check next? Your drawing is obviously for an auto... any thoughts would be appreciated... Thanks !!


Best Regards,
Jesse:banghead:
 
Which pins have 12V? In one sentence you say 3 and 9 do have 12V, but the other says pin 9 doesn't. :) Assuming you are looking to see where pin 9 on the mpi relay goes, on a M/T car, it goes to the starter relay. You should only see 12V there when the car is cranking. The more important question is what do you see for voltage on pins 7 & 8 of the mpi relay when you are trying to start the car?
 
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Depends on what your trying to solve. (Please tell us)

If the problem is the fuel pump then the output on pin 2 is important and you would be looking at pins 3, 7, and 9 to figure it out.
If the problem is your not getting power to the MPI circuit then the output on 4 and 5 is key and you would look at pin 10 and 8 for clues.

As Bert points out pin 9 only has 12v on it when the car is cranking. Assuming the car starts the ECU will pull pin 7 low to keep the pump running.
 
Which pins have 12V? In one sentence you say 3 and 9 do have 12V, but the other says pin 9 doesn't. :) Assuming you are looking to see where pin 9 on the mpi relay goes, on a M/T car, it goes to the starter relay. You should only see 12V there when the car is cranking. The more important question is what do you see for voltage on pins 7 & 8 of the mpi relay when you are trying to start the car?

I confused the pins in my last post sorry. The pin 9 has no voltage which sounds like its supposed to. If I understand correctly, I need to test whether the voltage gets through the MPI relay while the key is on. I am new with the DMM, so I am wondering: do you just plug it in and shove the point of the electrode in the back of the connector?

The car seems to be getting fuel (fuel pump whines and inlet pulses) but has no spark and no ECU boot. I fried the shit out of my ECU beyond cap replacement, and I got a matching one from a guy of craigslist. I opened the replacement and it doesn't look or smell fried. After putting the new one in I noticed its not booting, but the MPI does click... I will try to check the MPI relay across my battery this afternoon.

I'm gonna go out there right now and start shoving the DMM into the backside of the wire connector and see what happens.

Thanks for your responses guys!!!
 
The car seems to be getting fuel (fuel pump whines and inlet pulses) but has no spark and no ECU boot. I fried the shit out of my ECU beyond cap replacement, and I got a matching one from a guy of craigslist. I opened the replacement and it doesn't look or smell fried. After putting the new one in I noticed its not booting, but the MPI does click... I will try to check the MPI relay across my battery this afternoon.

Sounds like the fuel pump side of the relay works so you should focus on the MPI side.
Since pin 10 has 12v all the time just go to the ECU connector with the ECU disconnected and ground pin 63 (or 66) and see if that turns on power to pins 102 and 107.

It's common for leakage to damage the traces controlling the activation of the MPI relay.
If grounding the pin turns the power on then you know the problem is the ECU and not the relay. (which would be the first place I would have been looking since I've yet to see a bad MPI relay but lots of bad ECUs)
 
Sounds like the fuel pump side of the relay works so you should focus on the MPI side.
Since pin 10 has 12v all the time just go to the ECU connector with the ECU disconnected and ground pin 63 (or 66) and see if that turns on power to pins 102 and 107.

It's common for leakage to damage the traces controlling the activation of the MPI relay.
If grounding the pin turns the power on then you know the problem is the ECU and not the relay. (which would be the first place I would have been looking since I've yet to see a bad MPI relay but lots of bad ECUs)

Alright, I did that. Just in case i did it wrong heres what I did...

Shoved a little wire into #63 and bent it down to touch the middle steel area. Then I shove the voltmeter into 102 and 107 while grounding the other end. 0 volts. Bad MPI then?
 
i forgot to mention I turned the key and still nothing.. I was rough on it while i took it out so I'm wondering if the wiring between the two is the problem. I could test it across the battery by using some wire right?
 
I could test it across the battery by using some wire right?

Yes, just like I said in post 5.
So what color wire went to the pin you grounded. Since the ECU was disconnected the ignition switch isn't involved. It's normally the input to the ECU to turn on the MPI relay but there is circuitry between the two.
 
The #63 wire was red with a black marking. It was the same as the wire looked coming from pin 8 on the MPI relay.

I tested the MPI across the battery today and it works. For some reason its not getting across the MPI ..... I looked for power at the MAS, CAS, and TPS and there was nothing. It is very strange.. Unless the wire is cut somewhere I am at a loss.

The only other thing I can think of is the MPI is not sending enough current through it. What should the resistance be between 10 and 8? Mine is at 6.7 MegaOhms. is that correct?

Thanks :banghead:
 
The #63 wire was red with a black marking. It was the same as the wire looked coming from pin 8 on the MPI relay.
That doesn't sound right. Sounds like you flipped over the connector and forgot to flop where pin 1 was when you did so. The Red with Black is the AC clutch. Pin 63 and 68 are black with blue stripe wires.

http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf

I tested the MPI across the battery today and it works. For some reason its not getting across the MPI ..... I looked for power at the MAS, CAS, and TPS and there was nothing. It is very strange.. Unless the wire is cut somewhere I am at a loss.

The only other thing I can think of is the MPI is not sending enough current through it. What should the resistance be between 10 and 8? Mine is at 6.7 MegaOhms. is that correct?

Thanks :banghead:

That also doesn't sound right but it may be because there is a diode in series with the coil winding and you had it reverse biased. If the relay clicks when you put 12v across those pins and you read battery voltage at pins 4 and 5 while the battery is connected then the MPI side is good.

Your not going to see power at the MAF and CAS until you get the MPI relay switched on and you need to use the right wire.
 
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