kahl23
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,093
- 12
- May 10, 2004
-
Wellesley,
Massachusetts
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That doesn't sound right. Sounds like you flipped over the connector and forgot to flop where pin 1 was when you did so. The Red with Black is the AC clutch. Pin 63 and 68 are black with blue stripe wires.
http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf
That also doesn't sound right but it may be because there is a diode in series with the coil winding and you had it reverse biased. If the relay clicks when you put 12v across those pins and you read battery voltage at pins 4 and 5 while the battery is connected then the MPI side is good.
Your not going to see power at the MAF and CAS until you get the MPI relay switched on and you need to use the right wire.
The ECU has power coming to it but still no boot. Got it off craigslist so I'm ####ed out of $75 dollars. Damn.
I just bought another one from the 1991, plugged it in and it fired right up. Opened it up and theres acid on the board!!! Its a curse
Is it possible that my car is burning them up??? I don't know what to do anymore...
That's the +5v regulated filter capacitor and it looks like it leaked, shorted and blew up.
It's possible that in the process of doing so it spiked the CPU and interface chips. Look to telltale bubbles or cracks in the tops of the black square chips. The bigger is the CPU and the smaller interface logic. On EPROM ECUs there are two smaller square chips.
I got a working one which I was refurbished. Now the car is making a screeching noise when I start it (starter?) and then it runs for awhile before it just suddenly dies. Do you think that is related to the ECU or something different. Thanks in advance
Can I send that one to you with my other two to look at? I bet you can fix the first two.
The screeching may be the alternator belt.
Not enough data to comment on why it dies.
Sure send them all in.
Testing the relay is a matter of applying power to the coil winding and making sure the contacts close. Inside the metal box are two relays, one for the MPI power and one for the fuel pump power. The fuel pump relay has two coil windings and energising either should close the contacts.
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in this picture can someone please point to where i need to apply power to..?? thank you very much
YES - false info: The fuel pump relay is only activated when the ECU receives CAS pulses (ie. engine is turning). This is true on all 1gs and turbo 2g's.When that relay is activated, the ECU is in turn, activated. Once that happens, the ECU then turns on the OTHER relay next to it, which is for the fuel pump to pressurize (prime) the fuel system when the key is first cycled to the 'run' position.
Any false info, please let me know and I'll edit
hey guys, i am just about finished installing my 16g turbo and much more bolt ons on my 1996 talon tsi awd. i have a question about the mfi realy. i didnt run any oil through my lines or the turbo. my friend told me that i could disconnect the fuel relay and turn the car over to get oil through the lines without anything going wrong. is this true? also will it do the same for my water lines? how many turs do i have to do to get the oil and/or coolant through my lines safe enough to start my car? obviously i will plug the mfi relay back in before starting the car. i wouldnt ask on here if people around my place knew what a dsm was or could work on one (smh)
sorry if some info was wrong, but i know there is a realy (fuse) for the fuel pump. i just need to disconnect it. which fuse will i have to disconnect in order to put oil through all my lines without having the car starting? what is the realy called?