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Max Dry nitrous shot.

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bOOstd GSX

20+ Year Contributor
931
0
Nov 29, 2003
Plum, Pennsylvania
What is the max shot I could run on my car. I have a NOS dry kit with purge.

Here is my engine setup:

Slowboy Stage II race head which consists of:
• Ported and polished
• Clevite rod bearings
• Clevite main bearings
• ARP rod bolts

Slowboy Stage III race block which consists of:
• Eagle rods
• Ross pistons
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job
• Stage III port work
• New valve stem seals
• SS swirl polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Stock springs and retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

• 660's
• Walbro 255lph
• Aeromotive AFPR
• Evo 16G Turbo with housing ported to 7cm (50 trim soon)
• Apex'i 3" exhaust (no cat)
• Apex'i 3" downpipe
• GReddy 24row FMIC
• Upper IC piping
• GReddy Type S BOV
• 1G 60mm Throttle body
• Apex'i S-AFC version II
• GReddy profec b spec-II
• HKS Turbo Timer
• Pocketlogger
• K&N filter
• Injen intake pipe
• Pocketlogger
• NGK plugs
• Magnecor wires

My tranny conisits of:
• Full rebuild
• End clutches
• Translab shift kit
• IPT high stall torque convertor

NOTE: I am running 95 octane pump gas.

I wanna push a 100 shot but do you think this is too much? I'm new to nitrous and don't know much besides the fact that it makes your car go fast. :p
 
Dry kits are for NA cars. You need to run a wet kit. If you mess around with running a dry kit on the car be prepared to order another set of pistons.

Dry kits add fuel by bumping up fuel pressure. Your fuel pressure is already raised quite a bit on it's own with your turbo setup. Your going to end up with 80+psi of fuel pressure and a very unreliable nitrous setup on yoru car.. Your injector is large enough you "COULD" make it work but it's a pretty shiatty way of doing it.

Sell that dry kit to a honda guy and get the proper setup.
 
Well the kit is installed and everything, plus I already have my purge hooked up. Is there anything I can do to just add parts andmake my dry kit into a wet kit?
 
Yes NX sells everything you need to convert your dry kit to a wet kit. If your experienced with nitrous and want to try and make a dry kit work go for it. People who run dry kits with turbo cars are guys who have put a lot of time and efford into making it work. Their results are still less then perfect even at that.

Give NX a call tell them what kit you have (Probablly 5122, 5123 or 5124) and ask what parts you need to convert over. You will need a nossle, solenoid and a few lines mostly. I know they sold a kit before but i can't find it on their site.
 
I think Noslaser ran like an 80shot dry on his laser. I don't suggest you do that but I think he did.
 
I'd have to agree with going to a wet kit. Dry's are normally used on n/a cars. Come on boosted, you talk to me enough on AIM b!tch! Use the logger and watch your knock, go up in shot sizes of 5hp, and keep going until you find a decent resting point.

Btw, in your main post, you have the block and head mislabeled. You're sayen you have eagle rods in your head? Good job! :p
 
My bad man when I posted it you weren't online. :p

I think I'm gonna go with a 50 shot.

My bad about the rods in my head, let's hope that doesn't happen. :laugh:
 
I would recomend hooking up a 100 shot wet. You have the supporting mods for it. Just tune it on a dyno. As long as you have a forged bottom end and studded head, you shuold be fine. You wont be able to run as much boost, but still, you will gain that extra 100 HP.

BUT YOU HAVE TO GO WTWITH A WET SHOT. Direct Port would be better too.
 
Ya I already have my 50 trim waiting. I'm selliing my dry kit and getting a nitrous plumbed BJ's intake mani and a direct port kit.
 
is a dry kit okay on a turbo car if its just a 35 shot? (running 16-18psi of boost)? worth it?
 
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