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2G Manual gst Rewire confusion

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954g63gst

10+ Year Contributor
220
21
May 24, 2012
gardner, Massachusetts
Hi guys,

I found articles about 2g rewire fuel pump. Well one says one way another article says another way. Check first two photos

I wired the relay just like the first photo
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But I didn’t get power to the pump. So I wired the relay like the second photo


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Still no power to the pump. The first photo is a gst two wire the second is a gsx 5 wire but each case we only need to cut the power/ ground wires. Should I keep it wired the way I have it or copy the first photo then troubleshoot? Should I see if the factory black and blue is getting power? If so when should it see 12v on accessory or when the car is cranked over? I also attached photos of how I reworked the pump excuse the hack job I’ll clean it up once I get everything 100%

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These two diagrams should work. So first (assuming your car has no electric issues), make sure the pump/relay ground are good. If the both ground is good, activate the fuel pump via ECMLink and check if that would activate the relay (if you can hear a click sound from the relay or not, when you activate the pump via ECMLink).
If you don't hear a click sound from the relay :
Check if #86 receives 12v, if it doesn't, you are connecting a wrong wire to #86 or a bad connection. fix and see if it would work.
If #86 has 12v but don't hear a click sound, replace the relay with a good working one.
If you hear a click sound from the relay :
Make sure if #30 receives the battery 12v.
If #30 receives the battery 12v, check if the pump receives the battery 12v via #87, too.
If #30 receives the battery 12v but the pump doesn't receive the battery 12v, check the wire/connection between #87 and the pump. If the wire/connection is good, replace the relay.
If #30 doesn't receive the battery 12v, check the wire/fuse/connection between the battery and #30.
 
Ok I’ll verify all that again but last I checked the ecu should send power once it sees ignition and rpm but while cranking(turning the key to start) the black and blue wire doesn’t have 12v. or does the ecu send less volts threw black and blue wire. I was able to jump relay and turn the pump on. But if the ecu don’t send power to pump the relay won’t click. But like you said I’ll have to check #86. Just to check relay.
 
These two diagrams should work. So first (assuming your car has no electric issues), make sure the pump/relay ground are good. If the both ground is good, activate the fuel pump via ECMLink and check if that would activate the relay (if you can hear a click sound from the relay or not, when you activate the pump via ECMLink).
If you don't hear a click sound from the relay :
Check if #86 receives 12v, if it doesn't, you are connecting a wrong wire to #86 or a bad connection. fix and see if it would work.
If #86 has 12v but don't hear a click sound, replace the relay with a good working one.
If you hear a click sound from the relay :
Make sure if #30 receives the battery 12v.
If #30 receives the battery 12v, check if the pump receives the battery 12v via #87, too.
If #30 receives the battery 12v but the pump doesn't receive the battery 12v, check the wire/connection between #87 and the pump. If the wire/connection is good, replace the relay.
If #30 doesn't receive the battery 12v, check the wire/fuse/connection between the battery and #30.
Ok so if I supply 12v to the black connector under the hood on the firewall my pump turns on. Does that rule out incorrect wiring on new relay at fuel pump?
 
The car was running before you rewired the fuel pump, correct? If so, the issue is probably related to the rewire work.
Just return the wiring as stock, and see if the car would start. If it starts, then you have no issue on your car.
 
The car was running before you rewired the fuel pump, correct? If so, the issue is probably related to the rewire work.
I replaced my entire gas tank, rewired the fuel pump installed a new walbro 255 fp, and installed a tank to fuel pressure regulator line from stm, along with Weldon fuel filter. Because I was doing all that and removing the battery I relocated the battery to the trunk and did a wire tuck to clean up engine bay In the process of removing the tank I noticed the rear o2 was installed but the wires where cut at the sensor so I bought a new narrowband sensor and installed it and plugged it in here is the pics of what I did after installing all parts

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It is not look closer i have my rad fans rewired and the rad fuse is not in

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Sorry I should of checked my cover I assumed because your hand was in the way my fault
 
Oh ok actually you are working on many things at the same time. So maybe the issue is not related to the rewire.
As for the fuel pump power, as I mentioned above, activate the fuel pump by ECMLink and check if you have a 12v on the Black/Blue wire (Relay #86). If you don't have it, there is some issue. If you have it, the pump should turn on if you would rewire properly.
 
The car was running before you rewired the fuel pump, correct? If so, the issue is probably related to the rewire work.
Just return the wiring as stock, and see if the car would start. If it starts, then you have no issue on your car.
Ok well on the fire wall is a black and blue connector if I supply 12 volts to that the pump turns on which means the relay senses signal from factory black wire blue stripe energizes the coil feeding power to the pump as it should So from here where I stand I need help finding the order of operation I can turn the key engine cranks but never fires. And pump doesn’t start the ecu sends signal to fuel pump based on ignition and rpm I have to check what first the (CPS) or the (CAS) and how? I want to see if the ecu is sending power to the (CAS) first then check the (CAS) itself , how? Then I have to do same to (CPS) harness for voltage then the sensor itself. Is that the correct order After that how do I check the ignition coil? Do I test the three wires it the transistor that has 7 wires? Whit has wires do I test?
 
All good man :thumb: my battery is in the trunk too. The blue black wire should trigger the relay and engage the new power wire from the battery to the relay heres how i have mine done with those to wires on the relay posts. Theres some scribble words on the pic.

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Oh ok actually you are working on many things at the same time. So maybe the issue is not related to the rewire.
As for the fuel pump power, as I mentioned above, activate the fuel pump by ECMLink and check if you have a 12v on the Black/Blue wire (Relay #86). If you don't have it, there is some issue. If you have it, the pump should turn on if you would rewire properly.
My C.O. worker took my computer home to use it I’ll have to wait till the am
 
You can always run a new signal wire from your fuse box with a tap. Pick any circuit that comes on with the key on but not the accessory and tap off of it and run it to the relay to power it up.
Easy.
 
You can always run a new signal wire from your fuse box with a tap. Pick any circuit that comes on with the key on but not the accessory and tap off of it and run it to the relay to power it up.
Easy.
I need help I think my issue is not the fuel relay or signal wire it my be ground because if I use the test wire in engine compartment fuel pump turns on once I have fuel pressure the engine still won’t start. Starter is cranking but I don’t think ignition is getting power or crank position sensor If anyone in mass is willing to help I have money But It’s tough over the internet I need to repost in no start section I know relay works cause when I add power to it it makes contact and turns the pump on I just want the car to do it as it should it worked fine two weeks ago before I ripped out fuel tank and relocated the battery Hell maybe it’s just a ground
 
They are just or MORE important than a hot wire.
If you used the test port and the pump came on then the wire is hot and flipping the relay, correct?
You should ground the frame, chassis and engine very good.
 
They are just or MORE important than a hot wire.
If you used the test port and the pump came on then the wire is hot and flipping the relay, correct?
You should ground the frame, chassis and engine very good.
Yes when I add 12 v to the black connector on the firewall pump input reads 12v. I bought this car and someone converted every evo part they could to it and didn’t do a great job but they used good parts one thing I noticed was I never needed to push in the clutch to start the car. The car ran good so I drove it 4.5 hours home then a couple times around the block, Before I relocated the battery after that I was able to start the car again so I started removing old fuel components and the ac condenser which already had its lines cut and plugged It had only one plug I disconnected looked like CPS or ignition coil plug The battery in the trunk is grounded to strut tower nut and I get power on the dash radio speakers wor engine cranks but it does not fire I NEED A DSM ELECTRIC GENIUS or at least a great understanding of the starting system
 
No straight ground to the engine....?????
That is a MUST!!!!
Yes let's get the down low on the thing. You disconnected, what, 3 grounds and only have 1 now? It is VERY IMPORTANT TO GROUND PROPERLY.
Still, if the test connector works, then you have a bad wire from the original relay to the new one, I propose.
 
Engine grounds very important. I see guys battle ignition issues that are ground related. I run 2 off bock and 2 off the head. Think of ignition like a welder, does not work well with bad ground so nothing else will either without grounds.
 
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