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Resolved Manual boost controller install 2GB

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
Yo. Hopefully this isn’t a repost. I installed a manual boost controller on my 99 GSX and I’m not convinced it’s installed correctly. The instructions say to install one end to the wastegate and one end to the turbo or intake manifold… but as seen in the 2GB vacuum diagram below the turbo and wastegate are on a t post and the other end is into the intake. Do I remove the T and connect to the turbo/wastegate or do I use the stock tube configuration and replace the wastegate solenoid with the manual boost controller as it’s currently tubed?
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Solution
No pictures yet… BUT! I did open the boost controller and found the ball in the wrong valve next to the spring instead of under it. I also found the spring pinned under threading so as not to be as loose as the lowest setting should allow.
No test drive yet but seems to be a clear culprit.
Also ordered a new Idle Air Control. Not having one is annoying.

bigfred

Proven Member
40
20
Feb 26, 2008
Castlewood, Virginia
Do you have the factory turbo or is it an aftermarket one? I have an EBCS and it's connected to an Evo 3 16G turbo on the J-pipe and the other hose is connected to the nipple on the wastegate. If it's a factory turbo you can connect one hose to the wastegate and the other to the nipple on the turbo and you are done. Just make sure that you hook the hoses up to the right connector on the manual boost controller and yes you need to remove the T.
 

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
So delete the factory T and hook the turbo side to the boost controller? Yes, factory turbo.
Crap, you answered that.
So just plug the intake hole?
 

bigfred

Proven Member
40
20
Feb 26, 2008
Castlewood, Virginia
Yeah that's how I have my Injen Intake that has the port on the front for the factory boost solenoid hose. If you go with a FP intake pipe the only hole it has is for the recirculated BOV but they are a bit pricey but well worth the money. I just bought one for my son for when we get his car done.
 

bigfred

Proven Member
40
20
Feb 26, 2008
Castlewood, Virginia
According to the picture they have of it the barbed fitting straight across the dial goes to the turbo and the one 90 degrees from the dial goes to the wastegate.

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Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
Yes, thank you. I used a friends boost gauge and waiting on a new one to double confirm. Currently using the stock configuration on the boost controller but from what you’re saying I should follow instructions and split the original config to fit the two sides.
 

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
Alright, I did it. I removed the T connecting the wastegate to the turbo. I ran a vacuum line from the wastegate to the boost controller and another from the turbo to the boost controller. I also plugged the port that was going to the intake. Now it’s got pretty crappy and low idle… maybe I can just turn the idle up but wanted to make sure plugging the vacuum line on the intake was ok.
 

Kryndon

Proven Member
809
464
Jan 10, 2014
Bulgaria, Europe
How well did you plug it? That little nipple is after the MAF so if it's not sealed 100%, it will suck in extra vacuum from there but that would cause a high idle. Also what setting did you apply to the controller? Usually they have small bleed holes where air is always let through, but if you have it cracked to full open it will be bleeding a lot of air out. Start from the loosest setting (less boost) and work your way up in small increments doing a 3rd gear pull from 2k to 6k and seeing what your boost gauge is reading.
 

randman2011

Proven Member
511
237
Feb 26, 2012
Indianapolis, Indiana
Alright, I did it. I removed the T connecting the wastegate to the turbo. I ran a vacuum line from the wastegate to the boost controller and another from the turbo to the boost controller. I also plugged the port that was going to the intake. Now it’s got pretty crappy and low idle… maybe I can just turn the idle up but wanted to make sure plugging the vacuum line on the intake was ok.
DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE. The problem is due to something that you touched during the boost controller install and adjusting the idle will, at best, hide the symptoms of the problem and at worst make it worse. Address the boost leak and do not touch the BISS. Pretty much ever. Never touch the BISS.
 

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
Unfortunately I bought it full of leaks.

I took it into a mechanic to replace the interior fuse harness. He let me know that he raised the idle to 1000 rpm because it wasn’t idling correctly. I then did boost leak checks and plugged all the holes.

I added the boost controller at the same time but incorrectly. My idle was smooth though and needed to be turned down. Then I fixed the boost controller install. Now it’s idling too low.

Alright… idle is fine, boost is fast, but it goes too high even at the lowest setting.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
No pictures yet… BUT! I did open the boost controller and found the ball in the wrong valve next to the spring instead of under it. I also found the spring pinned under threading so as not to be as loose as the lowest setting should allow.
No test drive yet but seems to be a clear culprit.
Also ordered a new Idle Air Control. Not having one is annoying.
 
Solution

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
7,998
2,604
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
No pictures yet… BUT! I did open the boost controller and found the ball in the wrong valve next to the spring instead of under it. I also found the spring pinned under threading so as not to be as loose as the lowest setting should allow.
No test drive yet but seems to be a clear culprit.
Also ordered a new Idle Air Control. Not having one is annoying.
What kinda controller is this? Sounds sloppy
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,472
1,401
Feb 3, 2002
St. Charles, Illinois
What kinda controller is this? Sounds sloppy

An Amazon version of an old school DIY manual boost control (see post 7)
Looks a lot like the first one I built back 20+ years ago.

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Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
Maybe. I did learn quite a bit so not totally disappointed.
You get what you pay for.
One may say that… or one may say, “they all work the same. Paying extra is like having your water poured.” I should have opened it first since I didn’t pay to not have to. Hehe

Also, drove 70 miles today and it was flawless.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
7,998
2,604
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Maybe. I did learn quite a bit so not totally disappointed.

One may say that… or one may say, “they all work the same. Paying extra is like having your water poured.” I should have opened it first since I didn’t pay to not have to. Hehe
I built my own years ago and sold them but they were machined. Spring and ball couldn't go anywhere.
 

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
I built my own years ago and sold them but they were machined. Spring and ball couldn't go anywhere.
To say it doesn’t work for shit? That’s more believable. Lol. As of today, turned all the way down, I can’t complain. I haven’t reconnected a boost gauge though. All I can say is I’m not doing 100% on injectors or making things go, “BANG” anymore.
Tomorrow I’ll replace spark plugs and take it for an oil change. I’m hoping to get some decent pulls without bangs after that. Preferably with my new boost gauge telling me what’s up.
Next… fuel system?
 

Fuzzy

Supporting Member
54
31
Mar 13, 2022
Chandler, Arizona
Ended up returning to stock. Just couldn’t handle the boost and fuel cut. I’ll try again with better fuel delivery and a better boost controller.
 
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