The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Manifold stud repair with time-sert

TWOpointFORliter

10+ Year Contributor
625
78
Jul 31, 2009
Crown Point, Indiana
So I recently had a manifold head stud pull the threads out.

After doing a bit of research I decided to use time-serts instead of a helicoil or thread insert. My question is if I am using a stainless manifold and stainless studs one would assume I should use stainless time-serts instead of the normal carbon steel ones included in the kit right?

I’ve always understood that due to the difference in heat expansion between the two metals you shouldn’t mix them. I’ve had nothing but problems with my exhaust for many years between cracking, broken studs and vband flanges leaking I just want want it fixed right so I can enjoy my car.

Anyways what do you guys think stainless or carbon steel for the time-serts?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,520
2,827
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Alloy head = steel serts. Thats the best way

Alloy and stainless would be far worse later on and normally needs a barrier between them.

While we use stainless studs alot in the head we have to use a good barrier. I opt for hi temp nickel anti seize and i opt for A4 which is 316 and this is best for opposite metal corrosion.
 

TWOpointFORliter

10+ Year Contributor
625
78
Jul 31, 2009
Crown Point, Indiana
Alloy head = steel serts. Thats the best way

Alloy and stainless would be far worse later on and normally needs a barrier between them.

While we use stainless studs alot in the head we have to use a good barrier. I opt for hi temp nickel anti seize and i opt for A4 which is 316 and this is best for opposite metal corrosion.

I’ve never even considered that. Guess I’ll save my money and use the ones that come with the kit.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,520
2,827
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Later on also removing stainless studs on a steel sert will be FAR easier then stainless on stainless! That will gauge in like a claw and wont help you in any way later on in time.

Thats why i use copper nuts on stainless most of the time for exhaust. Even on steel its better but not as critical, stainless on stainless with heat just hates you LOL
 

TWOpointFORliter

10+ Year Contributor
625
78
Jul 31, 2009
Crown Point, Indiana
Agreed with Bobby. Carbon steel instead of stainless in the head or trans due to potential galvanic corrosion issues. And carbon steel is easier on the wallet too.
Glad you chimmed in too. I came across your post of time-serting everything in the head. Made me want to do all my manifold holes but that would be a pain to do in the car. If this happens again I guess I’ll do them all.
 

99gst_racer

Moderator
11,903
1,241
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
Glad you chimmed in too. I came across your post of time serting everything in the head. Made me want to do all my manifold holes but that would be a pain to do in the car. If this happens again I guess I’ll do them all.
I'm glad you mentioned that tech write-up. I've been meaning to go through several of my old ones and fix the broken images. Just got that one cleaned up.

 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top