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Making of a Quick Street Car

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Been awhile since I updated this, so I will try my best to get it caught up.....
I ended up selling the car in December of 2016. I posted it up on our local Craigslist for a price I never thought I would get for it ( 10k), mainly bc I didn't really want/need to sale it, but if someone gave me that much I would let it go. Well, after @ 5 months of turning down offers of 8-8500, I had a buyer at full asking price. So after 17 yrs of ownership ....it went off to it's new owner.
Fast forward 14 months later, the guy I sold it to got up with me and asked if I wanted to buy it back. After a month of texts, we were finally able to meet up so I could look at the car and see if it was still in as good of shape as it was when I sold it to him. Luckily, it was just as good as the day I got rid of it minus a dirty engine bay and a bad oil leak. We talked about price and it wasn't long before he threw out a number I couldn't refuse. Put it this was... I got it back for about what I paid for the injectors and turbo manifold.
 
Since the car has been back I have pulled the engine/trans, cleaned the bay, replaced clutch with new South Bend clutch, fixed oil leak, and swapped the pte 6776 with a bw s363.
Also just bought a complete awd auto car, so I will be completing the auto swap in the next few months. I love shifting gears, but I am tired of dealing with 25+ year old cables binding and breaking.
 
Well... the time has come. Never in the world did I think it would happen, but I am making the switch to automatic. I have all the parts, and most are installed already. Rebuilt auto trans, Bradco converter, kiggly flexplate, Forced Four shift box (smart 100), etc...
I will also be using a 3g shifter so I can use it as trip-tronic mode. Shifter is already installed , but it's sure not 100% bolt in like the 2g, but It wasn't too hard to make work.
Only thing left to do is install axles, rear diff swap, and some wiring . Hopefully to have it finished up soon...
 
Thats crazy man i seen this car on my local craigslist in 2016. Looks like a very clean car. Im looking forward to the updates.
Yea, I put it up there for a crazy price bc I didn't really want to get rid of it, but about 8 months later a guy gave me full asking price, so I had to let it go. Then a little over a year later I bought it back from the guy for a price I couldn't turn down .
 
Also picked up a new set of tires. After searching around I found these Firestone Indy 500's. They have great reviews on Tire Rack, YouTube, and everywhere else I looked. They are rebadged Bridgestone Potenza Re003's. I was going to go back with a set of Yokohama S Drives I had on the car, but they are being discontinued. They were great tires and lasted me over 5 years. Got a best of 1.64 60ft on them also. If the Firestone does the same I'll be happy.
 

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Well, since the stock converter wouldn't stall up to @ 2200-2300 rpm and @ 2 psi, I figured I better try to solve that problem. After playing with timing and different air/fuel ratios and not seeing good results, I installed the nitrous kit I had laying around.
I started with a 35 shot, and 3500 rpm 2 step. The nitrous got it there, but took longer than I wanted it to. Car still bogged after it started moving, so I raised 2 step up to 4k. Reached @ 10 psi, but still fell on its face after it started moving. So, I decided to let the car cool off and throw the 50 shot jets in, and raise 2 step to 4500 rpm. Seems to work a lot better. Leaves on @ 18-19 psi, and just chirps the tires. Few more tries to get everything right and should be ready to turn the boost back up to 30-32psi. These pulls were @ 22 psi, and shifting early....

 
May I ask, how are you activating your nitrous? I am about to run a similar setup and have my nozzle installed, solenoids and plumbing done but am down to the electronics. Thanks for any tips you might share!
Marty
 
I have mine set up as on a push button right now, only because I hope I wont need it when I get my converter back. If I keep it installed, I will probably set it up in ecmlink to activate at a certain rpm, then shut off at at a certain rpm/boost psi.
I have a 2 toggle switches under the radio for the nitrous and one for the transmission cooler fan. You can see the red light indicating it's on in the bottom right of the video. I just rev up in neutral a few times to give the brakes more holding power, put into 1st gear and rev as high as I can on the stock converter (@ 22-2300 rpm), then hold the button till the rpms get to the 2 step limit (4500 rpm), then let go of the brakes and hold on. You can kinda see my button above the dimmer switch/fog light switch in the top hole. I like that it doesn't stand out.
I'm totally new to the nitrous and auto stuff at the same time, so I'm sure there is better ways, but this will work for now...


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I am OLD....that is how I used to activate it on my V8 Vega also, not the most technical but effective and also gives me the option to "scramble" if I need to hit it for that last little bit.
Thank you, you have been extra helpful to me and I hope the smile on your face will transfer over to me SOON!
The details of how you stage were just as important to me also!
Love the videos and am a subscriber now! :thumb:
Marty :)
 
No problem, I'm learning as I go also. Only other thing I may change soon is the addition of a Arc-2 ignition box for the 2 step instead of using link. Everyone says it will leave more consistantly with the Arc-2 bc it is ignition cut, and not fuel cut. But for now, I'm going to just use ecmlink to make a few test passes.
 
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