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lowered camber issues

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David9er

15+ Year Contributor
61
0
Apr 23, 2008
Evansville, Indiana
I purchased my 1G back in October and it has 235/45R17 tires with EVO VIII 6 spoke ENKII wheels. One of the previous owners has installed lowering springs at all four corners. My best guess is that due to the 2"+ drop and whats left of the spring color, these are the ones installed but no guarantees: eibach sportline springs
I was under the car the other day and noticed that all four tires had inside wear down to the secondary rubber. After doing some research I found that to correct this I need a camber kit such as this one: ingalls camber kit
The rear control arms are by far the most expensive part of the kit and there is a cheaper alterative from VFAQ here:VFAQ adjustment bracket
The other option is to fix my camber issues would be to change springs, at the moment there is so little suspension travel that the car bottoms out every time I so much as run over an ant, not good for a 24 year old car that needs plenty of TLC. I think something like this would be best:Tien springs
Being a 24 year old car there are a few other things I that need my immediate attention like an Engine and Trans rebuild, new tires, and an alignment so cost is a big issue.

So the options I have are as follows:
A: Ingall front kit with VFAQ bracket at the rear. Estimated price <$75
This is the cheapest option and I would like any feed back from any one that has done the VFAQ bracket, If I do this repair I intend to upgrade to ingalls at a later date​
B: Full Ingalls kit installation. Estimated price $200
C: Tien S-Tech Springs. Estimated price $200
This option provides more suspension travel and a softer spring for a smoother, more comfortable ride [car is daily driven and spends 99+% of its time on the street]​
Any feed back on the springs, Ingalls kit or VFAQ bracket would be very appreciated
 
What kind of shocks do you have? Most options available for us in the OEM replacement/bolt-on category are killed in short order by springs like that... actually probably 90% or more are snuffed out early by Sportlines alone. Yours may already be gone. If so, you'll want to replace them, despite the added cost, since the ride will be garbage no matter what if they're bad.

Are you wanting to have the car lowered around the 1.5" mark? I'd honestly suggest looking at Bilstein's Touring Class shocks for our car. There's a review on here, seems they worked well with stock springs (as they should) and Eibach's Pro Kit. The Pro Kit is discontinued, though you can still find them. They seem more proven and less expensive than the Teins. There are other current production springs that are similar in performance to the Pro Kits as well, if you would like to consider some of them. H&R is the first name that comes to mind. I'd also replace bump stops (if there is any material left to replace at this point) and the damper rubbers all around while you're in there, no matter what you go with.

I've heard some things about both Ingalls kits you're considering that frankly scare me. The good news is that for most any streetable drop, you won't need a camber kit for the front. For the rear, I'd suggest one of the swage tube options. 3SX offers a set for roughly $150, Maximal offers a set with heavy duty heim joints (which I recently purchased and am in the process of installing) for about $200, or you could follow the tech articles that tell you how to build your own if you really have to save every penny. The HD rod ends and not having to scavenger hunt for all the parts sold me, for what that's worth. Even after all these years, I hadn't seen that particular article on modifying the rear arms until today, so I've no input on that. If done correctly, it could get you by, but something about that method leaves me feeling uneasy.

I just got in from work and am tired, surely having been vague or at least unclear on some of these points. Search some of the keywords I mentioned and do some research as others chime in, you'll figure it out in short order. Costs will probably go up once you realize the extent you have to go to even to half-way decently put the suspension back in proper order. But if you buy quality, you can sell those parts and recoup more of your investment later down the road if they're not abused, and put it toward the setup you have or will have in mind. "Anything worth doing, is worth doing right."
 
I'm fairly confident that the shocks are stock. I cannot tell if they are bad though, the springs are too tight. Good point though, the shocks and bump stops are items I haven't considered.
I have a spare truck I can use as a DD so the car can be down for a bit and I was planning to rebuild the engine and transmission this summer. The VFAQ bracket makes me a little uneasy too, but like I said up top if I go that route it won't be for long, maybe a year tops before I swap to the Ingalls or one of the other RUCA [Rear Upper Control Arm] options you mentioned.
 
I've had the ingalls rear upper control arms for about 7 years and they work great. However on my next build, I am just going to do the vfaq. I may weld them solid afterwards with the OEM eccentric adjuster set to the middle with my car at about -1.5* camber.
 
Any one out there tried the VFAQ rear camber bracket fix?
 
I've personally never even seen the rear control arm bracket vfaq. Kind of weird considering I've been doing this for a stupid amount of years.
Another option to think about is offset bushings for the upper control arm. Although not specifically for our cars, whiteline makes an offset bushing for the GVR4. This is what I did after installing some kport coilovers years ago and dropping it probably about 1.5-2.0". The bushings have an offset hole so you can push the bolt further out even before the eccentric comes into play. I was able to put my alignment right at manufacture spec. They ran me about 50-60 bucks and come with the added benefit of being poly bushings.
Camber bolts(or some people call them crash bolts because they don't understand what they're for) for the front shouldn't be more than maybe 20 a side. Puts you at about 100 total.

KCA365 is the whiteline part number. MAP got me mine for 59 shipped.
 
Very interesting, did these bushings require any modification or was it a simple install?
 
Sorry for the late response. There is nothing real special about installing them. Just a standard poly bushing installation. Press out old rubber, remove sleeve, install new

Don't be an idiot like me and install the offset wrong the first time. D'oh!
 
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