Link G4 LinkECU G4+ Guide

G4 Plus / VR4Link

Setup Guide

With this ecu being out for a while there is not much info on how to setup the ECU or what functions you have with it. This is can be difficult to setup if you have never owned a full standalone before. I hope this will help people get a quick understanding and a basic setup guide. This can be used for Galant VR4 and 1G DSM’s. I am going to be expanding on this as I build the guide on how to do everything. I will be putting each topic in a singular post to make it easier to find information. I myself am still learning about the ECU and want to share my knowledge from what I’ve learned. The initial setup will be in tradition fuel. Once I swap over to a fuel flex setup then I will explain Modeled Fuel Setup with fuel flex.

Tools:

• 10mm socket
• Screwdriver

Optional Tools/Supplies:

• Soldering Iron
• Wire

Ecu Ordering options:

When you order the ecu it will come with the tuning cable to plug into your computer. I suggest getting the expandable wire look for the ECU. This will help with powering and getting a couple more inputs and outputs. This is a full standalone ECU it can be difficult to setup. I will do my best to help get you on your way. This ECU is it can run a CAN Gauges. If you plan on running a CAN display/Gauge you will need another CAN ecu wire and can expand wire.


#2 Receiving ECU

#3 Knock Mod

#4 Initial Setup

#5 Additional Sensor Setup

#6 Tabs and Window Layouts

#7 Limits Setup

#8 First Start up

#9 Idle Tuning

#10 Light Throttle and Cruise Tuning

#11 Boost Tuning

 

[lglracer]

Receiving ECU:

• These ECU’s are locked from the factory to prevent some to use it if it is stolen while being sent out. Email the buyer when you get the ECU and they will give you the Unlock Code.
• These ECU do not have the Knock sensor hooked up due to in Motorsports they have vibrations all over the car that can cause false knock so they don't use it. There is a MOD to do this. Look in the Knock MOD Section.

• Once you get the ECU pull the ECU in your 1G or Galant VR4.
• Install ecu by removing the 4 screws for the outer case and 4 screws for the board.
• Install your New ECU board.
• Install your CAN wire and expandable loom if you got one.
• Now you will need to most likely drill a hole in the case to have the wires feed outside of the ECU. What I did is where all the ECU plugs are, I cut the side out a little more and it worked fine.
• The ecu does have an onboard map sensor. If you are going to use it then hook up the vacuum line now and then put the cover on.
• Install ECU back into car.

 

[lglracer]

Knock ECU Mod
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[lglracer]

Initial Setup

• Turn the key to power on the car.
• Hit F3 or click on the Offline Button to connect to the ECU
• Click on unlock ECU and enter the Code you received from the dealer
• Now it is unlocked.
• Verify you have the latest firmware for your ecu.
  • ECU Controls > Update Firmware
• TPS Setup

• • Go to ECU Control > TPS Setup
  • It will say fully depress pedal press ok
  • Release pedal and press ok
  • TPS Sensor Calibrated
• Map Sensor Setup
  • Map Sensor (On Board)
    • Go to ECU Control > Map sensor Calibration
    • It will calibrate and say its good.
  • Map Sensor (External Setup)
    • Look up to see where you hooked up your map sensor
    • Go to ECU Setting > Analog Inputs > AN Volt 3

• • • • Click on Map Sensor and select OFF
    • Go to back to Analog Inputs
      • If you have your MAP sensor hooked up to the factor Pin 16 then you will use AN Volt 2.
      • Go to ECU Setting > Analog Inputs > AN Volt 2
      • Click on OFF and select MAP Sensor
      • You will need to tell the ECU what map sensor you have. Click on 4 Bar and select what Map sensor you have.
  • No go to ECU Control > Map Calibration
  • Map will calibrate and now you are done
• IAT Setup
  • IAT you will be using pin 8 on ECU
  • Go to ECU Settings > Analog Input > AN Temp 1 – Inlet Air Temp
  • If you have the GM sensor, I just use the Std Bosch NTC Settings. Verify that your IAT temp is about the same temp as ambient air where the car is.
• Wideband Setup
  • If your using the stock O2 sensor location which is Pin 4.
  • Go to ECU Setting > Analog Inputs > AN Volt 4
  • Function click on NB oxy and Select Lambda 1
  • Click on Calibration and select your WB if available.
  • If not available, select one of the Cal 4-6 options. Verify the Cal tables are not used by another parameter. Then go to that table and enter the values from the manual of the WB sensor. Adjust the values once running to get the WB to match the gauge.
• Fuel Setup:
  • ECU Settings > Fuel > Fuel Setup > Fuel Main
  • Enter in the Stoichiometric Ratio
    • Gasoline = 14.7
    • E85 = 9.8
• Injector Setup:
  • ECU Settings > Fuel > Fuel Setup > Injector Setup > Injector Dead Time Table
  • Use the Data given from your injectors to fill in the Injector Dead Time vs. Battery voltage. If you do not have this try to get information from the vendor.
  • If you are using the stock injectors then leave this alone.
• Idle RPM Target
  • ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control > Idle Target RPM Table.
  • Adjust your RPM as needed with the cams. I recommend 1000 Rpm with cams.
  • The idle will start high and goes down as the engine warms up.

 

[lglracer]

Additional Sensors

These can be found in the manual under Digital and analog inputs. Also, in the manual it will show you what inputs are where on the ECU. These are completely customizable. Use the Aux inputs to add in addition sensors that are not factory. There are many different types of sensors and configurations for these inputs. Most are very simple to setup. Refer to the factory manual and sensor data sheet on how to hook them up.

• Sensor
  • ECU Setting> Digital/Analog> DI/AN input
  • A new window will open
  • Select function
  • Select what sensor you will be running
  • You can add a Label to the sensor
  • Calibration = what table you will be using to dial in the sensor
  • You can click on this to select a certain table just be sure not to select one that is already in use
  • Error volt Low = When sensor is not working due to no power most likely
  • Error Volt High = Sensor is at the max of what you would like
  • Error Valve = when you want the ECU to turn on the CEL.
• Sensor Calibration Tables
  • ECU Settings > Cal Table > Cal Table Settings( Wrench)
    • Label = Name of table. This helps with identifying sensors
    • Output units = Should be what your sensor is using but can be modified
    • Output Table Start = You can modify this to work with what parameters you are running
    • Output Table Increments = from the start it will increment in that value.
      • Just remember that too wide and it could affect the tune.
      • Too little and you may not have room if the sensor overshoots
    • Cal Table > goes to the calibration table
• ECU Settings > Cal Table> Cal Table (Grid)
  • A new window will pop up
  • This is a 2D table
  • The values on the top are the value that you setup in the settings
  • The values on the bottom you will use the data sheet that came with your sensor to define those values. Most sensor come with this. If they don’t you will need to test and figure them out

There are many different types of sensors and configurations for these inputs. Most are very simple to setup.

 

[lglracer]

Pages and Window Layout

Normal Pages

• Configuration
  • This is used mainly when setting everything up and being able to see everything thing that is going on with the ecu
• Tuning

• • This will be the main tab used. This has you fuel table that is what you will be using to tune the car. I would recommend adding a target gauge so you can see what your target AFR is and actual AFR this make it easier and faster to tune.
• Logging
  • This will show your log files. Be sure to go through and verify all the values logging by right clicking on and of the windows and select parameters. Then add and delete as needed.
• Mixture Map
  • This is use to essentially auto tune the car. I rarely use this because you should be on a dyno where you can get constant results and lots od data points to help you tune. I use this more for reference.
• Adding New Page
  • Right Click on the Pages bar > New > Type in name> Ok
• Adding New Gauge or List
  • Right Click on the window > New View Select your new view
  • A new window will pop up. Select what Parameters you would like to see by clicking on them and clicking on the blue arrow to move them.
  • Select ok when you are done and your new gauge or list is available.
• Adding Tables
  • Select a table or setting you would like to have on your page. Do this by going inti the ECU Setting and click on the item. (ex =Injector dead time, knock controller, fuel table etc.)
  • If you would like to have multiple tables then make sure you hit the lock on that table so it will stay there and not just have the next item open in the same window.

 

[lglracer]

Limits Setup

There are a few limits you should check to verify they are correct for you.​

RPM Limit

• Go to ECU Settings > Engine Protection > RPM Limit
  • RPM Limit Mode = You can select between ignition or fuel cut. Either one will work. The preferred one is fuel.
  • Time allocation = this is where you can set your RPM limiter just as a 2D map or 3D map. A 2D map will work for most setup. The 3D map will be used if you want to also compare another value.
  • Advanced limit Mode
    • The manual does a great job of explaining these features if you would like more advance control of the RPM Limit.
• Go to ECU Settings > Engine Protection > RPM Limit Table
  • This is where you can set your RPM limit vs Coolant Temp
  • This can be changed to what ever parameter you would like to compare it to.
  • RPM limit on these cars are 7000 RPM.
  • You can change it for your particular setup.

MAP Limit

• Go to ECU Settings > Engine Protection > Map Limit
  • Map Limit Mode = you can select fuel or ignition cut just like the RPM limit
  • Table allocation = If you want to run 2D or 3D maps. 2D maps are fine for basic setup.
  • Axis Setup = You can base it on RPM or Coolant temp.
  • Dual Map Limit = Allows you to run 2 maps with different parameters to watch boost limits.
  • Advanced Mode = The manual explains these parameters in detail really well if you want to have more control of the car.
• Go to ECU Settings > Engine Protection > Map Limit Table

Speed Limit

• Who needs it.
• There are some applications where this is good like letting your teenager driving the car. Set it to 65 and done. No racing for them. Haha

GP RPM Limit
This is to allow you to set a RPM limiter due to some external or internal limits such as Oil Temp and Oil Pres.

• Go to ECU Settings > Engine Protection > CP RPM Limit1
• Limit Mode > Select Fuel Cut or Ign Cut
• Advanced Mode = The Manual gives you a good detailed list if you would like more control
• Startup Lockout = When the car is starting it will not affect the engine until the timer is up
• Activation Delay = will delay the activation due to maybe a fluctuation
  • An example would be a oil pressure fluctuation that last less than 3 seconds it would not activate but over that it would activate the limit

System Voltage Limit

• This is to prevent any electronics from being over powered.
• Go to ECU Settings > Engine Protection > System Voltage Limit
• Shut Down Voltage = When you want the car to shut off over a certain voltage.

 

[lglracer]

First Start up

This will be a little trick since you will be jumping between a few things possibly to help keep the car going. Here is a list of the things you will be jumping in between

• ISC Setup:
  • Idle Target needs to be setup if you have cams
    • ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control > Idle Target Base Position Table
    • Adjust these values based on the Coolant temp.
  • Now there is an issue with the IAC operating backwards. There is a setting in the software to switch it.
  • Go to ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control > Idle Speed Control > Stepper Motor Direction > Chose Reversed.
  • This should help if it seems like the car isn't staying alive due to the IAC moving the wrong direction
  • If you are having issues getting a smoother idle the best thing is to go into closed loop mode and adjust the Idle Base Position Table
    • ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control > Idle base position
    • This will lock in the ISC position to help it not fluctuate so much.
• Base Timing Setup
  • Base Idle needs to be at 10 Degrees unlike stock ecu and LinkEcu require 5 Degrees.
  • Go to ECU Settings > Triggers > Calibrate
  • This will bring up a window that has what your current setting are.
    • Trigger Offset - is what your offset is compared to what the car is at.
    • Ref. Timing - is what the ECU wants timing to be at
    • Set Base Tuning – is where you actually adjust everything
  • Start the car and click on Set Base Timing and the car will set itself to 10 degrees.
  • Take your timing light and see what your timing is at.
  • Then instead of adjusting the Cam Angle Sensor you just adjust the Trigger Offset and this will adjust timing.

• Master Fuel
  • ECU Settings > Fuel > Fuel Setup > Fuel Main > Master Fuel
  • Adjust the master fuel up and down to help the car run at the Stoic during idle
  • Once the car is warmed up and idling close to stoich with the master fuel adjusted then move to the fuel table
• Fuel Table
  • To help with starting I would highlight an area of the idle area and set the value to the same value. This will help in getting your car started and running
  • Use the gas pedal if you must slightly until you can adjust your fuel to get the car to idle
  • Keep an eye on the inlet temperature as it rises you tune will be affected.
  • You will mainly be adjusting the 850-1150 range.
    • If your idling higher than stock I would adjust the RPM points to help with control.

 

[lglracer]

Idle Tuning

Idle tuning can be a bit tricky on the G4+. The best way it to go into open loop mode and tune the idle then put it back into closed loop.

• Go to ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control > Idle Speed Control
  • ISC Mode

 

[lglracer]

Light Throttle and Cruise Tuning
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[lglracer]

Boost Tuning
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[cjkiii]

Any plan to update this information in the near future?