Leak at Oil Return Line

[triggerx]

So I have a leak at the oil return line, a few months later after installing a small 16g turbo on my 1g Eagle Talon Awd Tsi.

To remedy this problem I was going to just cut the metal flex section off so its easier to position the two flanges separately.
However I guess JNZ has a kit, that does exactly just that

Oil Return Line Kit-Stainless Steel (DSM) : JNZ Tuning

Has anyone used it? And are there any cons to switching over to something like this, like lower oil pressure or something that might affect the car?
Thanx

 

[T is for TURBO]

I have used kits similar. Personally, I hate them. They never seem to seal right at the pan. I haven't had a non leaking return line since I took my t-25 off 7 years ago. I even have a brand new pan, with new oem gaskets, and new lines and flanges. This winter I will be taking my pan off and having a -8AN fitting welded on.

However, YMMV

EDIT: You don't have to worry about low oil pressure with the return line. Just make sure it is big enough for you'r application. Since your running a 16G a -8 fitting is plenty big, so -10 will be more than enough.

 

[thomcasey]

You don't have to go that route. You can just buy new gaskets and crush washers (This is where 99% of all leaks are, the washers on the bolts are one use only crush washers) and the leak will stop. Less than a $10 fix. If you do go the JNZ or home-made route (Make sure you get Fuel hose, not heater hose. Otherwise the oil will degrade the heater hose and leak), you will not have issues with oil pressure as it is on the return side.

 

[DSSA]

I have used kits similar. Personally, I hate them. They never seem to seal right at the pan. I haven't had a non leaking return line since I took my t-25 off 7 years ago. I even have a brand new pan, with new oem gaskets, and new lines and flanges. This winter I will be taking my pan off and having a -8AN fitting welded on.

So long as the weld is good, that's the most fool-proof way of doing it. It's easier to start with a non-turbo pan if you're able to.

As for the non-sealing issue, there's no magic science to it. Two surfaces, gasket between them. So long as they're both flat, they will seal.

I'm not sure what pan you used (you stated it was new), but I've had nothing but headaches with the aftermarket pans as they overheat the weld and warp the sealing surface. It usually takes two gaskets and some RTV to get them to seal (which I'm not fond of doing).

The other leak area is the bolts holding the line/adapter into the pan. Use new crush washers every time, and if you use an adapter, make sure that it doesn't have over-sized bolt holes.

Josh

 

[92AWDHX40]

For a oem turbo i use my oem lines, work better than ss for a oem set up.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I have one and don't have issues. I liked it better, I bought a $120 OEM one and it broke within the week, Slapped this one on (mine was a slowboy one(long time ago) And haven't had a problem in 5 years with it, I put a little locktite to ensure nothing would get loose. (Paranoid after the last blow out and covered my car and freeway in oil and ended up locking up my motor)

 

[WES_393]

You don't have to go that route. You can just buy new gaskets and crush washers (This is where 99% of all leaks are, the washers on the bolts are one use only crush washers)

This. The bolt holes are drilled clear through the pan (and turbo drain flange). So the bolts need seals as well, regardless of what drain flange your using. Crush washers will work but I prefer using these:

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STM sells them, but you can find them for much cheaper at hardware stores.

 

[TSI_AWD_FTW]

You might have bent the OEM line and cracked it. One of the most common mistakes I've seen while removing/installing turbos with the oem line. I have had good luck with just using jb weld, or sliding a rubber hose over it and clapping it. Trying to run ss lines on stock turbos is kinda a pain for the benefits it gives. thats if its just a cracked line though.

 

[DSSA]

This. The bolt holes are drilled clear through the pan (and turbo drain flange). So the bolts need seals as well, regardless of what drain flange your using. Crush washers will work but I prefer using these:

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STM sells them, but you can find them for much cheaper at hardware stores.

Those are the OEM oil return line crush washers for the EVO 8/9. Same size as the DSM ones, but a nicer piece than the simple flat crush washers. We sell a pair for less than $2