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2G Knocking or what?

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Funeraljr

Probationary Member
7
0
Apr 3, 2013
Parkersburg, West_Virginia
So, I have a bit of a problem with my 2g Talon. It's been acting up lately and a few problems i need to fix but the other day I drove to the gas station and i pulled up the the pump and it stalled out and wouldn't start back up.:banghead: so I pushed it into a lot and came back the next day to try to see what was up.

The wierd thing is, If I leave it sit for awhile and try to start it up, It will turn over and start with ease, but after I leave it on for a couple minutes then shut it off and try to restart it, it keeps turning over but wont start! I have some videos I'll post along with. Please help!
:ohdamn:

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The same thing happened to me a couple monthes ago. Check your power transistor unit.

I'll give it a try and look at it. Here's the second video, when It wont start up, it just wants to bog.

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Where at exactly is the PTU located?
 
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Thing sounds like its hating life.

I cant tell 100% over video but it sounds like a cam/valve issue. Have you pulled the valve cover to check anything out? I had a stuck lifter in a car once that did that same thing. Almost same symptoms to a T.... mine would start up though.

Do you have adjustable cam gears? Did they move at all and mess up timing?
 
Thats what I thought it was, it skipped timing but i look at them and they're no more than half a tooth off. Checked out my oil, took off my cap and it was the first time that I saw it was a bit milky, but whenever it runs I'm not seeing any smoke come out the exhaust. Might just go ahead and change the headgasket and see if that helps any.
 
Hmmm... id at least get the valve cover popped off and snoop around in there, double check the timing. You said it jumped, has it been running with it jumped or you just noticed it jumped? I know you said its 1/2 a tooth each but it could be say... a full tooth on either and not allowing it to get full compression... could also put the valves at risk of piston to valve contact.
 
I'll give it a try and look at it. Heres the second video, when It wont start up, it just wants to bog.


Engine restart after knocking sound - YouTube

Where at exactly is the PTU located?

It's the black plug located on the coil pack assembly. It's the 2"by2" little black square thing attached to the bracket the coil pack is on,directly below the coil pack.
 
Run a compression check. A lot of times they will start fine with a blown headgasket if they have been sitting for a while because the cylinder has dried out. Then when you shut it off the coolant flows back into the cylinder and wets the plug etc.
 
Its hard to tell but i think i hear knock but it also sounds like something is physically hitting the VC LOL. That engine is TIRED.
 
It's the black plug located on the coil pack assembly. It's the 2"by2" little black square thing attached to the bracket the coil pack is on,directly below the coil pack.

Ok, thanks for the help! Will find it and see if it's anywhere close to the Engine to where it's getting hot.

would it knock that hard with coolant in it?

My brother has a 98 GSX and said for me to just put water in it, so thats what I've been doing to help save a little money and it just recently started this. It was leaking oil pretty bad and it stalled out, then I started it back up 20 minutes later and it sounded like it started knocking, I threw a quart back in it and it sounded a lot better but still has a bit of a bang.

I've had it happen on on old domestic engines. Its entirely possible.

The guy who I bought it off of said he had it rebuilt by DSMGraveyard and it only has 480 miles on the engine. not sure why it would be sounding like this though, haven't ran it hard or anything and when it WAS low on oil, and the knocking sound started, I only drove and moved it 100 feet and parked it, Never drove it a lot whenever the problem started.
 
If it was really low on oil you could have starved the head. Did you just literally "throw a quart in" or did you actually fill the oil by checking the dipstick?

Sounds like a lack of maintenance/ taking care of known problems like the oil leak... its probably less than a $10 fix and you could have just scrapped the motor over it.
 
i just dented my oil pan driving csusing a loud knock that got worse within minutes. everybody said bearing, so i pulled oil filter cut it open, no saw btw, there is a tool for it or use a chizzle. and pull the internals apart- copper specs=bearing. i had to pull my pan ne way to bang the dent out. all i got left is lower cross bar and ac lines and i hope she'll be running tomorrow.
 
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