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1G Knock sensor and O2 wiring

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TuskeeTuner

Proven Member
106
41
Dec 16, 2020
Everett, Washington
Hello,

I need to buy new twisted/shielded wiring to rebuild knock sensor and O2 wiring circuits. I'm completely rebuilding a new engine harness (1991 I think is the year) and have not found anything suitable for these two systems yet. Can anybody provide links to find the wiring, or if you've made your own circuits, where you purchased the goods from?

Thanks,

Tusk
 
I've never seen any of that, shielding, have you looked anywhere.
I've spent many hours after work scrubbing web sites of custom marine shops and a few other places that I don't remember. I don't think the OEM wiring is twisted, but is most definitely shielded.

Most of what I have seen is good for instrumentation, gauges, indication - nothing about how heat tolerant the wiring would be.
 
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Try some tv cable or cb radio coax. They both have copper center cores and shielding. Its larger than the small original knock sensor wire but I'd try it in a pinch. The shielding is to keep stray RF out if the signal wire.
It looks like HomeDepot carries18 gauge, 2 conductor shielded wire by the foot also.
 
Try some tv cable or cb radio coax. They both have copper center cores and shielding. Its larger than the small original knock sensor wire but I'd try it in a pinch. The shielding is to keep stray RF out if the signal wire.
It looks like HomeDepot carries18 gauge, 2 conductor shielded wire by the foot also.
Almost forgot about Home Depot Automotive!:ohdamn:
 
Try some tv cable or cb radio coax. They both have copper center cores and shielding. Its larger than the small original knock sensor wire but I'd try it in a pinch. The shielding is to keep stray RF out if the signal wire.
It looks like HomeDepot carries18 gauge, 2 conductor shielded wire by the foot also.
LMR100 would be even smaller. The problem is the center conductor is solid core. That will be impossible to terminate into an automotive connector. The proper termination is usually SMA, using solder. The vibration of the engine bay will easily crack this connection. I would not recommend coax or similiar.

The Home Depot option is a better choice.

Almost forgot about Home Depot Automotive!:ohdamn:

It looks like "shielded security wire" or "security wire" are great search terms.

Something like this may also be an option, assuming you are using a 1 wire sensor with a shield.
 
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I like the other option @danl . But let me say that the engine bay doesn't vibrate but the engine does for sure and "cheap" coax has multi-strand center wire, but coax is just too big for a O2 sensor rewire for sure. The OP will want the most pliable option and that looks like your suggestion or just use one wire in the 2 wire stuff from Home Depot.
I was trying to think last night where I had seen or used shielded wire before as I also do Ham Radio repair and help with installs. One setup had 4 conductor wire/shielded for a rotator for the antenna. "Some" door bell wire has a shield (but not most). I wish Radio Shack was still around. I couldn't think of any wire that was a single wire and stranded. Thanks for the help! :thumb:
 
LMR100 would be even smaller. The problem is the center conductor is solid core. That will be impossible to terminate into an automotive connector. The proper termination is usually SMA, using solder. The vibration of the engine bay will easily crack this connection. I would not recommend coax or similiar.

The Home Depot option is a better choice.



It looks like "shielded security wire" or "security wire" are great search terms.

Something like this may also be an option, assuming you are using a 1 wire sensor with a shield.
I wouldn't dream of using COAX cable for knock sensor and O2 sensor wiring...just not the correct wiring for the application.
Using the factory 4-wire O2 sensor wiring configuration. The twisted-shielded is for the sensing element and for the knock sensor wiring. Just need to make myself build it now.
 
Oh I agree, but in 10 years, watch, someone will use it as our parts slowly dry up. The 7 bolt timing tensioner issue is of concern to alot of folks, I'm sure.
I am a plug and play guy and am not into modifying connectors ever. You never know when you might need said connector again. I just make adaptor harnesses.
 
I can re-watch that video. That's also crossed my mind, but at the same time, I don't remember Jafro explicitly stating that he either completed a rebuild of the knock sensor and O2 wiring, or that he needed to do so. I think much of his rebuild stemmed from no tachometer or spark; which immediately points to the power transistor.
 
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