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ECMlink Knock Issues. ANNOYING

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SNAKE_15

10+ Year Contributor
572
47
Aug 28, 2012
Bakersfield, California
Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
Yes
2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil:stock
Wire brand and Age:stock, unknown
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: ngk standard

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:180
Cylinder 2:180
Cylinder 3:180
Cylinder 4:180

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:yes
Throttle Cable:yes
TPS:yes
BISS:yes

7). Compression ratio

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
no
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
no
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:42.6
Injector Size (cc/min):450cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:aem wideband
Calibration Date:1/4/15

13). Type of fuel
Type:93
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?yes
So far, I used the evo timing tables and I copied the max tables to the the min octane that way i wont get confused on what values are being used. Anyways, im trying to get wot dialed in, but i keep getting knock and my results always change. In one pull i dont get knock, but the next one i do. im targeting 10.8 afr and i also used the same values for min and max. i only have one recent wot pull that i did today. Any ideas????
 

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Stuff banging around, really? Take the coins out of your center console too. :thumb:

The engine knock sensor checks for a specific frequency of sound so "stuff banging around" typically wouldn't set it off unless it's at the same frequency that the knock sensor picks up. Typically, if it's "stuff banging around" it's the downpipe rattling on the bottom of the oil pan.

Looking at the log I wouldn't consider it phantom knock (PK) and should be fixed by reducing your timing 2* from 3.5k and up. If knock is still there but significantly less pull timing another 2* 500rpm from where it starts...

If pulling timing doesn't help/fix it then check the KS itself, they degrade with time (black gooey crap coming out of the back of them) or it might be loose. Torque spec on the KS is 17ft/lbs.
 
What turbo are you running?

We need a couple more logs to be sure, but I'm with Corey; that knock looks real enough to me. Based on the low amount of airflow, reasonable AFR (11:1), and fairly conservative timing, my bet is that you are pushing hot air. Try Corey's advise and lower timing a bit, or richen it up to around 10.5:1 to help cool the cylinders.
 
Stuff banging around, really? Take the coins out of your center console too. :thumb:

The engine knock sensor checks for a specific frequency of sound so "stuff banging around" typically wouldn't set it off unless it's at the same frequency that the knock sensor picks up. Typically, if it's "stuff banging around" it's the downpipe rattling on the bottom of the oil pan.

Looking at the log I wouldn't consider it phantom knock (PK) and should be fixed by reducing your timing 2* from 3.5k and up. If knock is still there but significantly less pull timing another 2* 500rpm from where it starts...

If pulling timing doesn't help/fix it then check the KS itself, they degrade with time (black gooey crap coming out of the back of them) or it might be loose. Torque spec on the KS is 17ft/lbs.
Lol at the coins comment but ya that was a little vague, but that's what I meant, "stuff" like that. Been a LOOOONG morning so far, still no excuse for that kind of crappy advice though :p:coy: . There's only a slim chance but its happened. Start with pulling timing like gofer said.
 
What turbo are you running?

We need a couple more logs to be sure, but I'm with Corey; that knock looks real enough to me. Based on the low amount of airflow, reasonable AFR (11:1), and fairly conservative timing, my bet is that you are pushing hot air. Try Corey's advise and lower timing a bit, or richen it up to around 10.5:1 to help cool the cylinders.
Stock turbo for now, but I'll try taking 2* off and see what happens and I'll post a log after I get off school.
 
What turbo are you running?

We need a couple more logs to be sure, but I'm with Corey; that knock looks real enough to me. Based on the low amount of airflow, reasonable AFR (11:1), and fairly conservative timing, my bet is that you are pushing hot air. Try Corey's advise and lower timing a bit, or richen it up to around 10.5:1 to help cool the cylinders.
Here are the results after retarding my timing. I did two pulls from third gear to fourth.
 

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how much impact has that the maf and mafraw aren't equal?

They will never be equal unless you aren't doing any MAF calibration of any type.

Go to the "MAF Comp" tab in any link log, and then click the little yellow question mark at the lower right. The chain of events shown there explains in detail where each of those signals come from and how they are generated.
 
They will never be equal unless you aren't doing any MAF calibration of any type.

Go to the "MAF Comp" tab in any link log, and then click the little yellow question mark at the lower right. The chain of events shown there explains in detail where each of those signals come from and how they are generated.
I have a question about maf comp too. Once I perfectly match my afr to estimate and later on I decide to change my target ratios, will I have to adjust my maf comp sliders again?
 
What kind of boost numbers are you running because it seems like you are definitely blowing hot air and heat soaking the stock sidemount. Anything over 15-16psi on a stock t25 is way past its efficiency range.

Doesnt seem like a timing issue as it is already pretty low and you are using Evo timing maps.
 
I have a question about maf comp too. Once I perfectly match my afr to estimate and later on I decide to change my target ratios, will I have to adjust my maf comp sliders again?

No, Once you dial in your maf compensation, and you decide you want to run richer/leaner, you make those changes in the DA tables.
 
What kind of boost numbers are you running because it seems like you are definitely blowing hot air and heat soaking the stock sidemount. Anything over 15-16psi on a stock t25 is way past its efficiency range.

Doesnt seem like a timing issue as it is already pretty low and you are using Evo timing maps.
I seen that but on my actual boost controller it never went over 15lbs. I kept a close eye during the pulls.
 
Are you hot lapping the car when you tune? You need to let the car cool down for several minutes(especially important on the stock side mount) between pulls otherwise it completely heat soaks, increasing IATs, inducing knock. That accounts for no knock at the start and the knock after subsequent pulls.

You could also do as Craig says and richen it up a bit to help cool cylinders.
 
You need a good boost gauge; preferably one that reads vac and up to about 30 psi.

Even better, since you have ECMLink... hook a MAP sensor up to an unused input and log it. Makes it much easier to study logs, etc.
I have an auto meter boost gauge and that one does go to 30lbs. I'll try your method one of these days. I have a question when I do my pull tonight from 2.5? Is it normal for my afr to take a few seconds to drop down because when I step on the gas at 2.5 k it takes a few seconds for my car to accelerate.
 
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